Just back from a week in France (and 1 night in Italy). I don't think that makes me an expert on France or Italy, but I always like to post a few thoughts, that may or may not be useful if others do a search here. If I'm wrong, let me know!
Paris:
For a reasonably priced Paris hotel (100-140 euros), I'd suggest the St Louis Marais:
http://www.saintlouismarais.com/
Recommended by friends. Nice rooms, quiet street, but convenient to all.
Room was attractive,and fairly spacious. By French standards huge bathroom. We were on ground floor, but be aware if you're higher its a walkup. Wi-fi. Le Marais is almost stereotypical for the American traveler, but it is really convenient location- hotel is short walk to Bastille, Pompidou, Notre Dame, Ile de Cite, etc. Not so far to Louvre or Musee d'Orsay.
Things to See
My favorite thing about Paris remains just walking.
If you're there on a rainy day and think "hey, let's do a museum", be aware everyone else will. Louvre was much more crowded than when I was last there (sunny). As always, several hundred people pushing to see the Mona Lisa, while in adjacent room Raphaels, Caravaggios, and other great works were ignored. We found one room that was a "tactile gallery", and were able to touch a Michaelangelo "Slave." Pretty cool (lower ground floor of Denon wing, hardly anyone there). Do what you must, but seeing La Gioconda will take time that one might consider using elsewhere.
Musee Rodin -if raining, crowded, but most of best works are outdoors. We didn't do Orsay or Pompidou this time, but if I had to go to a museum on a rainy day based on past experiences I'd choose Pompidou, with less structured layout.
It's definitely worth checking if there are any special exhibits outside the big museums. One of the highlights of Paris for me this time was Anselm Kiefer "Monumenta- Falling Stars" installation at Grand Palais - best contemporary art I've ever seen, and probably never to be seen again (site specific).
Safety
I was very prepared for Paris pickpockets. I spent 2 years homeless in NYC, and think of myself as very street smart. But still was a victim. As we were on mostly empty RER to Paris at 8:30 on Sunday AM, I had suitcase in front of me and backpack beside me (I was on aisle, it was on window). A man from behind grabbed my backpack and leaped off train at a suburban station (Sevran). I followed and caught door (another man held it as I went out), but he jumped onto tracks and into tunnel! Laptop, keys, etc. Luckily passport and wallet were in front pants pockets.
Paris Restaurants:
Bofinger was better and less touristy than I expected (though very cool period interior). More expensive than most brasseries, but still not bad by Paris restaurant standards. Choucroute was big portions (bratwurst, duck, smoked bacon on a mountain of sauerkraut) for 19 euros
Le Marocain in the Marais (Rue Fr. Miron)- good tagines and couscous, good merguez, reasonable for neighborhood. Tagines were about 12-14 euros
Bistrot Allard in Latin Quarter is under new ownership and back on their game. I started with escargot, Betsy with a salad of green beans and smoked duck; we then shared the poulet de Bresse with mushrooms and potatoes. Expensive for bistro, but far cheaper than L'Ami Louis or the like. 55 euros for the chicken/shrooms/potatoes for 2 isn't that bad considering quality (and quantity- huge).
Burgundy:
Don't let anyone tell you the Beaune Villages B&B is like a Motel 6/Comfort Inn. It was clean,. but decor was very "modern prison " We stayed out as late as possible each night before returning to Alcatraz.
Burgundy Food
There 2 kebab places on Rue Madeleine in Beaune. The one opposite Cave Madeleine serves the best doner/gyro/kebab sandwich I've ever had. Pita combined the best aspects of pita and pizza dough, meat (seemed to be veal, not lamb) was perfectly spiced, sauce great. Skip the fries.
We also thought Piqu'Boeuf, kind of a family/steak restaurant, suggested by Marc Dupin at Jadot, was a good value. I had eggs in red wine and a hunk of Charolais, Betsy beef bourguignon, David a Reblechon pizza. Good if not fancy.
I'd skip Le Cluny near the Hospice. Food was trying too hard, not a deal at half the price. Next time I make my Chez Guy, Ma Cuisine, La Chassagne reservations before I leave.
Liguria
Our "B&B" there was maybe the most beautful places I've ever stayed. 3 suites make up whole establishment (owners have separate house on property). On top of a mountain in the midst of an olive grove. Incredible views of the surrounding hills and down to the Mediterrean, flagstone terrace, flowers everywhere, the most gorgeous "infinity edge" pool, beautiful rooms:
http://www.san-damian.com/eng/sandamian.htm
Great buffet next morning (proscuitto, salami, cheeses, eggs, fruit, cereal, yogurt, coffee, tea, and real fresh OJ, which is really hard to get in Europe.
For 120 euros a night a great deal. Probably hour east of Nice airport, hour west of Genoa, 1.5 to 2 hours from Turin.
Agrodolce in Imperia was great innovative seafood. Our tasting menu included eggplant/pepper flan with mussels, a crudo of white fish (hake?) , baccala (best ever for me), calamari stuffed with buffalo mozzarella, clams in a squid ink with pasta, plus another white fish with couscous and fried leeks. Plus desserts, etc. We went through many (mostly local) wines, bill worked out to only 88 euros pp (hey, a lot for me, but compared to most tasting menus).
We had lunch coastal town of Bordighera-an old town up on the hillside with beautiul mosaic church steeples. There at Cafe Grimaldi Betsy had the local pesto specialty-on lasagna (very light, with one thin layer of proscuitto), David had basil/veal ravioli and I had calf liver. We also shared stuffed baked sardines and a salad.
Nice
Azur Hotel on Boulevard des Anglais was kind of typical funky old European hotel. Clean, decent sized room. Great view straight out to Mediterrean, cross boulevard to the beach. It's at end of main beach section, so not that close if you want to walk to harbor/city center area. 85 a night.
Zucca Magica in harbor is good Italian-influenced vegetarian cuisine. I'd wouldn't recommend for picky eaters, as it is just one set menu (I think 30 euros), You sit down, courses start coming. Funky squash/pumpkin decor.
We really enjoyed the small, light-filled, and excellent Chagall museum.
Driving
Other than high fuel costs, driving in France is pretty pleasant. Roads well marked (even tell you re speed cameras), careful drivers, wide roads. I enjoyed both Autoroute and backroads in Burgundy, and even Paris. Be prepared for lots of tolls. Italy also had good roads (and we loved the automated toll machines saying "arrivederci"). I will say tailgating is unbelievably prevalent in Italy.
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