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Two more excursions with saffron and rice

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Two more excursions with saffron and rice

by Jenise » Fri Jun 08, 2007 5:17 pm

Made a sublime and classic risotto Milanese on Tuesday night to serve with veal osso buco for a friend's anniversary dinner. I only tinkered with it by adding some lemon peel, to have that flavor somewhere on the plate in lieu of the traditional gremolata.

Then the next night I tried a recipe for, I may not be spelling this right, but a Persian tah dig--steamed rice cooked to get a big crusty bottom layer. The recipe was different than any other I'd read, wherein you take part of the pre-cooked rice and mix it with oil and yoghurt, spreading that on the bottom to get that crust and then mound the rest of the rice on top. After that you cook the rice for ten minutes to set the crust, then you pour more water and oil over and steam it for another 50 minutes. The rice gets pre-cooked by boiling it in lots of water first, a rice cooking technique I'm no fan of, but about which I decided to suspend judgement and just follow instructions since this is, after all, an ethnic specialty. Well, I didn't love the results. The crispy bottom layer was the only good part--the rest of the rice was too oily and overcooked.

I found the recipe on Epicurious, I'll go get it and copy it in a reply to this post. If Gary B. sees this note: I'd love you to have Zari take a look and comment on it.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Two more excursions with saffron and rice

by Jenise » Fri Jun 08, 2007 5:20 pm

Here's the recipe:

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are excerpted from Najmieh Batmanglij's book A Taste of Persia. Batmanglij also shared some helpful cooking tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page.

To read more about Batmanglij and Persian cuisine, click here.

serving size

Servings: 6

ingredients
3 cups long-grain white basmati rice
8 cups cold water
2 tablespoons salt
3/4 cup vegetable oil, butter, or ghee
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
1/2 teaspoon ground saffron threads, dissolved in 4 tablespoons hot water preparation
1. Pick over the rice carefully to remove its many small solid particles of grit.
2. Wash the rice by placing it in a large container and covering it with lukewarm water. Agitate gently with your hand, then pour off the water. Repeat five times until the rice is completely clean.

3. In a large nonstick pot, bring 8 cups of water and 2 tablespoons salt to a boil. Add the rice to the pot and boil briskly for 6 to 10 minutes, gently stirring twice with a wooden spoon to loosen any grains that stick to the bottom. Once the rice rises to the top of the pot, it is done.

4. Drain the rice in a large, fine-mesh strainer and rinse with 3 cups lukewarm water.

5. In a bowl, whisk together 1/2 cup oil, 2 spatulas full of the rice, the yogurt, 1/2 cup lukewarm water, and 1 tablespoon of saffron water. Spread this mixture over the bottom of the rice pot. This will form the golden crust, or tah dig.

6. One spatulaful at a time, gently mound the remaining rice onto the tah dig layer. Shape it into a pyramid to leave room for the rice's expansion.

7. Cover the pot and cook the rice for 10 minutes over medium heat.

8. Mix 1 cup cold water with 4 tablespoons oil and pour over rice. Sprinkle on the remaining saffron water. Place a clean dishtowel or 2 layers of paper towel over the pot to absorb condensation, and cover with the lid to prevent steam from escaping. Reduce the heat to low and cook 50 minutes longer.

9. Remove the pot from the heat and cool it, still covered, on a damp surface for 5 minutes to loosen the crust.

10. There are two ways to serve the rice. The first is to hold the serving platter tightly over the uncovered pot and invert the two together, unmolding the entire mound onto the platter. The rice will emerge as a golden-crusted cake, to be garnished with edible flowers and herbs, then served in wedges. The second serving style is to spoon the rice into a pyramid on the serving platter, taking care not to disturb the bottom crust as you do so. After the pyramid is shaped, detach the crust with a wooden spatula and arrange it in pieces around the pyramid or serve it on a small side platter.

NOTE: You can use any kind of pot to make this rice, but nonstick pots make unmolding the rice much easier.

NOTE: If using American long-grain rice, wash the rice once only.

NOTE: To reheat leftover rice, place it in a saucepan with 1/2 cup water and place over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes.

Rice Cooker Method

Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 1 1/4 hours

3 cups long-grain white basmati rice
4 cups cold water
1 tablespoon salt
4 tablespoons vegetable oil, butter, or ghee
1/4 teaspoon ground saffron threads, dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water

1. Pick over and wash the rice as per the master recipe above.

2. In the rice cooker, combine the rice, water, salt, and oil. Gently stir with a wooden spoon until the salt has dissolved. Start the rice cooker.

3. After 1 1/4 hours, pour saffron water over the rice. Unplug the rice cooker.

4. Keep the cooker covered and allow it to cool for 10 minutes.

5. Remove the lid, hold the serving platter tightly over the pot and invert the two together, unmolding the entire mound onto the platter. The rice will emerge as a golden-crusted cake, to be garnished with edible flowers and herbs, then served in wedges. NUSH-E JAN!

NOTE: If using American long-grain rice, wash the rice once only and use only 3 cups of water in Step 2.

Variation: Saffron Steamed Brown Basmati Rice
For 3 cups of brown basmati rice, use 6 3/4 cups water in Step 2. The amounts of salt, oil, and saffron water remain the same.

Najmieh Batmanglij shares her tips with Epicurious:
• Batmanglij highly recommends using a rice cooker for this recipe — it's easier, and the nonstick, evenly heating surface ensures a good crust. She favors the National Deluxe brand — if you're using a different brand, check the instructions, as you may need to change the measurements and cooking times.
• Though many Iranians now use vegetable oil, clarified butter (ghee) is Iran's traditional cooking fat. To make it, start with a third more unsalted butter than you will need for the recipe. Melt the butter over low heat, then increase the heat to medium low and simmer the butter, without stirring, until it stops crackling and the milk solids brown and drop to the bottom. Skim off any foam from the top, and strain the ghee through a colander lined with cheesecloth. Ghee will keep at room temperature, covered, for several months.
• Batmanglij prefers Persian full-fat drained yogurt, which is thicker than the American variety. American nonfat yogurt can be substituted for a less rich flavor.
• Batmanglij recommends buying saffron in thread form rather than powder, which is often adulterated with turmeric. Before they can be used in a recipe, the threads must be ground with a cube of sugar, using a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, and then diluted in hot water. "The saffron water can then be stored and used as needed," says Batmanglij. "Never use the unground threads."

Reprinted with permission from A Taste of Persia: An Introduction to Persian Cooking, © 2004

by Najmieh Batmanglij

Mage Publishers
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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