This is one of those places that somehow becomes an internet darling, and takes on a life of its own. We've seen it before, most notably with Lotus of Siam, and the Slanted Door.
Before long, the restaurant becomes "so popular that nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded."
I first heard of the Shake Shack a year or so ago, on Steve Plotnicki's site. Steve is an eater's eater, and he loved the place, so I knew I had to visit sooner or later.
On a perfect spring day in NYC, I got my chance. Located in the park, on Madison and 23rd street, the Shake Shack resembles the old snack bars I remember from my youth. You know the ones, found at beaches and pools and country clubs, and serving up burgers, fries, hot dogs and grilled cheese sandwiches. This one is free standing and kind of modern looking, yet retro at the same time. I know that sounds impossible, but that's the feeling I got. The first thing I noticed was the line. It was long. Very long. It snaked back from the window and made a twist and a turn or two, back toward 23rd St. It was populated with a variety of folks; well dressed business people, construction workers, and grandmas pushing strollers. I got on the end of the line, to wait my turn to buy what some have called the best burger in NY.
I had no idea what was on the menu, and didn't get within reading distance of the first menu board for about 10 minutes or so. Burgers. Hot dogs. Fries. Cheese fries. A bunch of cold beverages, including their famous shakes. They also have wine and beer. Another 15 minutes or so and I found myself at the window, where I recited the order which I'd rehearsed in my head while killing time on line. Double shackburger, order of fries, glass of Big House Red, and a bottle of Fiji water. The attendant punched the order into the system , asked me my name, then handed me a pager. "When the pager goes off, pick up your order around there," she said, pointing around to the other side of the building.
There's a bunch of tables right in front, and I lucked out as two people got up just as I was walking over. I snagged the table just steps from the pick up window, and began to wait. And wait. I read the little label on the pager - oh, my pager number was 109. I watched as people retrieved their orders and tried to eyeball the food, to see what was in store for me. Frankly, it looked kind of ordinary. Finally, 40 minutes from the time I got on line, the pager buzzed and vibrated its way across the metal table, and I jumped up for my order.
The burger and fries were served in one of those fold up cardboard boxes, with the fries resting in the industry standard Fonda food boat - the ones with the red and white checks. The burger peeked out from its wax bag wrapping. The wine was in a plastic stemmed glass, and the water bottle was a water bottle. I realized that one has to fetch one's own condiments and napkins, something I could have done while waiting, but did not. So I set my food down, watching it with one eye while I went to grab some napkins and a souffle cup of ketchup. If anyone even approached the food, I was ready to pounce with the gusto of a starving dog.
Oh yeah, the food. The burger was good. In fact, it was very good. Two, 1/4 pound patties, a potato bun which held firm, a slice of american cheese, green leaf lettuce and a tomato, with "shack sauce," undoubtedly some variation of the many "secret sauces" which usually consist of mayo and ketchup with some other odds and ends thrown in. I liked it quite a bit - the meat was juicy (cooked medium unless otherwise requested - I didn't ask for medium rare, which is how I cook them at home) with hints of pink still visible. The texture of the patty was what impressed me most. It was similar to the hand formed patties I make at home, not too tight. It didn't appear to be stamped out like so many of the fast food patties out there, but I can't imagine a place with this kind of volume could be making patties by hand. I don't know how they achieve the texture, but they do. I was very pleased.
The fries didn't wow me as much. Crinkle cut fries are always a turn off for me; the increased surface area hastens cooling. (or at least that's what they taught me in french fry school) They were mediocre fries at best. Next time, I probably wouldn't even order them.
It was nice being able to have a glass of wine with my meal, though it really called for an ice cold beer.
The cost for the meal was around $18 - tax is included in the menu price.
Bottom line - I'm glad I went - it's a great venue, especially on a spring day. I wouldn't want to stand in that line in July's heat and humidity. I enjoyed the burger but have my doubts as to whether it could possibly be the best in the city.
In the context of a fast food burger, it probably is. But can 40 minutes really be considered fast food?