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Matsutake mushrooms

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Jeff Grossman

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Matsutake mushrooms

by Jeff Grossman » Sat Oct 10, 2026 1:49 am

One of the premium online food vendors recently had a special on matsutake mushrooms. That translates to "pine mushroom" because they are found near roots of pine trees. They have wacky growing requirements and Japanese people treat them like we treat truffles.

Anyway, turns out they grow well in the PNW and so I got a pound. That was 14 shrooms. Fourteen weird shrooms. They look kinda like King Oyster mushrooms or even a little like porcini: stubby caps, thick long stems, only one of the shrooms actually had gills (the rest had not torn their veil yet).

The bigger ones were significantly heavier than the less-big ones. The two biggest ones, together, weighed 4 oz., about the same as six smaller ones.

They are delivered unwashed as they are fussy to clean so you don't clean them until you're doing the mise.

Once clean, these things are really dense. Even with a very sharp knife, I have to press a bit and the flesh squeaks against the blade. The stems are fibrous or, at least, have a pronounced grain so you can shred them with your fingers.

The aroma is... odd. Earthy, funky, maybe a little herbal, very Japanese in its spare way. (Unkind adjectives might lean towards feet and ammonia.) It's not particularly strong or pungent but it's not mild and faded, either.

So far, I've made gohan, and an enhanced chicken broth, and I sizzled one in a pan. (Nobody recommends using butter to fry them so I used vegetable oil.)

Gohan is just rice made with dashi and you float the sliced matsutake on top; the slices will simmer and steam as the rice cooks. This was weird but tasty.

For the enhanced broth, I took commercial broth, simmered it an hour with leek/carrot/celery, removed them, then simmered shredded shroom in the broth for 5 minutes. I will use this as an ingredient soon.

The seared shroom cooked up prettily. The dense texture served it well as it was very meaty (probably chewier than the venison chops that followed it into the pan!). However, the flavor is not enticing. I'm going to bail on doing any more of them this way.

I have one more recipe to try: slice the shroom thickly then load it into a parchment envelope with some aromatics and oil, and steam it in the oven a bit.
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Mike Filigenzi » Sat Oct 10, 2026 12:38 pm

Funny you should mention these. I just picked up a half pound of them from the mushroom dealer. The only time I've had them in the past was on a pizza made by Yaniger and JD, a long time ago. I was planning on putting them into a risotto, along with some other wild mushrooms.
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Jeff Grossman » Sat Oct 10, 2026 7:09 pm

I must have misplaced some brain cells... pizza with Yaniger? (I've had dosa with Yaniger.)
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Mike Filigenzi » Sat Oct 10, 2026 11:39 pm

"People who love to eat are always the best people"

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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Jeff Grossman » Sun Oct 11, 2026 12:23 am

Let me know how the risotto turns out. I perused, but ultimately skipped, some recipes for Japan-ifiying risotto with dashi instead of stock, and as bomba is a cultivar of Japonica anyway....
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Jeff Grossman » Tue Oct 13, 2026 12:49 am

Post-prandial report: The en papillote shrooms were good; having some aromatics around is helpful for cooking anything.

Tonight I made poke -- ahi tuna, half a sweet onion, Avogadro's vegetable :wink:, all chunked and stirred in a slurry of soy, mirin, sesame oil, lime juice, sesame seeds, and tempura bits -- using the matsutake rice. The poke was good; the rice was rice.

A couple more experiments to go (the soup, and rice balls) but I can already predict that I won't feel compelled to buy these again. I would enjoy every one of these preps more with maitake or morels.
Last edited by Jeff Grossman on Tue Oct 13, 2026 2:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Mike Filigenzi » Tue Oct 13, 2026 12:55 pm

I think I'm with you on the matsutakes, Jeff. More and more, I'm coming to the conclusion that apart from morels, chantarelles, and porcinis, wild mushrooms just aren't all that great. And they're expensive to boot!
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Jenise » Tue Oct 13, 2026 1:00 pm

It's chantarelle season in my neighborhood. Bought half a pound of really lovely, clean ones for $19.99/lb yesterday.
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Rahsaan » Tue Oct 13, 2026 1:24 pm

Jenise wrote:It's chantarelle season in my neighborhood. Bought half a pound of really lovely, clean ones for $19.99/lb yesterday.


Sounds great!
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Rahsaan » Tue Oct 13, 2026 1:25 pm

Mike Filigenzi wrote:I think I'm with you on the matsutakes, Jeff. More and more, I'm coming to the conclusion that apart from morels, chantarelles, and porcinis, wild mushrooms just aren't all that great. And they're expensive to boot!


Wild maitake has been very delicious and flavorful these past few weeks at the Nyc market where I shop.
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Mike Filigenzi » Tue Oct 13, 2026 1:40 pm

Thanks, Rahsaan. We get those frequently around here but I think they're mostly farmed. Do you think that makes a difference?
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Rahsaan » Tue Oct 13, 2026 2:43 pm

Mike Filigenzi wrote:Thanks, Rahsaan. We get those frequently around here but I think they're mostly farmed. Do you think that makes a difference?


I'm sure it makes a difference, but in my limited experience, the bigger variation is just in the quality of the product. We have several stands with cultivated maitake, some are better than others. Then these wild ones showed up the past few weeks and they are also good, maybe more interesting depth and texture, but not necessarily a huge difference in flavor. But one of the better producers of the cultivated mushrooms is taking a cutting from the wild maitake and is going to try growing them, so we will soon be able to compare his different strains of cultivated maitake.
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Jeff Grossman » Tue Oct 13, 2026 2:50 pm

Mike Filigenzi wrote:I think I'm with you on the matsutakes, Jeff. More and more, I'm coming to the conclusion that apart from morels, chantarelles, and porcinis, wild mushrooms just aren't all that great. And they're expensive to boot!

Black trumpets are good if you have an hour to get the sand out of them.
Both lobster mushrooms and hedgehog mushrooms are good.
Most other ones I've tried are basically flavorless.

And one total oddball mushroom: candy caps. Totally taste like maple syrup. Good for making caramel!
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Jenise » Tue Oct 13, 2026 4:19 pm

No votes for Lions Mane? I love a fluffy ball of that floating in a flavorful broth.
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Mike Filigenzi » Tue Oct 13, 2026 9:42 pm

When I mentioned wild mushrooms, I was talking about those that aren't farmed. Around here, anyway, the lion's manes, trumpets, etc. are farmed. Good, though!
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Jeff Grossman » Wed Oct 14, 2026 11:43 am

I have yet to be wowed by Lion's Mane or Puffballs.

I'm also no particular fan of Wood Ears or Enoki mushrooms. I have to be offered some flavor if I'm going to have to put up with weird texture.
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Jenise » Wed Oct 14, 2026 6:00 pm

Jeff Grossman wrote:I have yet to be wowed by Lion's Mane or Puffballs.

I'm also no particular fan of Wood Ears or Enoki mushrooms. I have to be offered some flavor if I'm going to have to put up with weird texture.


Many mushrooms ARE all about texture, though 'weird' is in the eye of the beholder. Lion's Manes floating/cooking in a broth like a dumpling is IMO it's best use. I love marinated wood ears as a cold salad/condiment--I frequently order some at a favorite Taiwanese restaurant. Again: it's all about texture.

Enoki's? Used to like them until I got food poisoning from them. I mentioned it the next day here, and one of you knew that they are known for that propensity (I didn't). So for me, never again!!!! They do look very cool, though, as a deep-fried garnish.
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Re: Matsutake mushrooms

by Larry Greenly » Wed Oct 14, 2026 6:15 pm

I like strips of wood/cloud ears for their crunch.

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