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Charles Phan passes away

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Dale Williams

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Charles Phan passes away

by Dale Williams » Wed Jan 22, 2025 4:25 pm

Always loved the shaking beef recipe
https://www.foodandwine.com/charles-pha ... es-8778064
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Larry Greenly

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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by Larry Greenly » Wed Jan 22, 2025 5:16 pm

Dale Williams wrote:Always loved the shaking beef recipe
https://www.foodandwine.com/charles-pha ... es-8778064


They all look great.
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wnissen

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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by wnissen » Thu Jan 23, 2025 11:11 am

Dale Williams wrote:Always loved the shaking beef recipe
https://www.foodandwine.com/charles-pha ... es-8778064


https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restau ... 044438.php

I'll always associate him with this board, that was my first offline! Back when Slanted Door was in the other half of the dry-cleaning storefront owned by his family, this was I think September 2001. The food was a revelation, and it was the first Asian restaurant of any kind that had actual appropriate wines, as chosen by Mark Ellenbogen. Great company as well. I wish I could find that post and thank whoever it was that picked Slanted Door.

The Ferry Location was never quite as exciting, though the food was the same and the views were better than those to be had at 17th and Valencia! Currently there is a version somewhat near me in San Ramon that I've been to once, though it didn't seem as strong as the originals.

Phan definitely moved cuisine forward. The recipe of his I like the best is the lemongrass chicken. Need to pull that out.
Walter Nissen
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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by Mark Lipton » Thu Jan 23, 2025 1:35 pm

wnissen wrote:
Dale Williams wrote:Always loved the shaking beef recipe
https://www.foodandwine.com/charles-pha ... es-8778064


https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restau ... 044438.php

I'll always associate him with this board, that was my first offline! Back when Slanted Door was in the other half of the dry-cleaning storefront owned by his family, this was I think September 2001. The food was a revelation, and it was the first Asian restaurant of any kind that had actual appropriate wines, as chosen by Mark Ellenbogen. Great company as well. I wish I could find that post and thank whoever it was that picked Slanted Door.

The Ferry Location was never quite as exciting, though the food was the same and the views were better than those to be had at 17th and Valencia! Currently there is a version somewhat near me in San Ramon that I've been to once, though it didn't seem as strong as the originals.

Phan definitely moved cuisine forward. The recipe of his I like the best is the lemongrass chicken. Need to pull that out.


I wouldn't be at all surprised if it was Joe Dougherty (RIP) who may have set that offline up. He was a good friend of Mark E and an early fan of Slanted Door (he might also have been involved in lobbying for a BYO policy there).
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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by Jenise » Thu Jan 23, 2025 4:19 pm

Stu Yaniger was also a big fan, and I too learned about this restaurant from this board. Eventually, I got free airline tickets from someone and flew up for a day just to have lunch there (old location). I've also since dined at the new one. My fave Phan recipe is the roasted dungeness crab with garlic and lemon grass. A lot of work, but absolutely to die for. Also love the crab and glass noodle salad. I'm reminded that there's a recipe in his book for bitter melon in which slices are stuffed with meat and smothered in a spaghetti-like sauce and baked. Have always meant to try it--if anything would make me like bitter melon, that would be it.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Dale Williams

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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by Dale Williams » Thu Jan 30, 2025 11:47 am

SFJoe and SY, now that's memories.
Agreed, that sounds about as good as bitter melon could get.
For LNY last night we had some family over:
Whole steamed red snapper with cilantro, ginger and hot oil
Longevity noodles with shiitakes
Shanghai bok choy with oyster sauce and sesame oil.
Phan's shaking beef. I pretty much never buy filet mignon, but its perfect for this and the recipe actually gives filet some great flavor.
When I was in HMart last weekend they had King's Berries - giant strawberries perched on cushions (or thrones!). $29.99 for 6 berries. Crazy (that Asian gifting thing), but as we were planning dinner I thought "well for a one time thing that would be a unique splurge for dessert" but they were sold out when I returned :(
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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by Jenise » Thu Jan 30, 2025 1:39 pm

How cool those strawberries would have been. I'll be hitting up HMart in Seattle later this afternoon. Dale, when you mention H Mart chicken, is this something they sell raw but already marinated?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Dale Williams

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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by Dale Williams » Thu Jan 30, 2025 2:13 pm

yes, our go-to "you have 20-25 minutes to get dinner ready" plan is pre-marinated chicken or beef bulgogi on the grill, usually with grilled trumpet mushrooms (brushed soy/mirin) and a quick Asian green,
Next year I won't hesitate at the $$$berries.
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Paul Winalski

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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by Paul Winalski » Mon Feb 03, 2025 11:36 am

Charles Phan's shaking beef recipe (from Food & Wine, June 8 2016) calls for "1 pound filet mignon, cut into 1-inch pieces". So what does "piece" mean? Slices? Strips? Cubes? I've never seen the dish so I haven't a clue. After doing some Google searching, I discovered that Phan means "cubes" here. I decided to post that info here to save others doing the research.

-Paul W.
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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by Jenise » Mon Feb 03, 2025 1:50 pm

You got it, Paul, large cubes.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Charles Phan passes away

by Paul Winalski » Mon Feb 03, 2025 4:52 pm

Shaking Beef is the literal translation of the Vietnamese name for the dish. It's one of those odd names with an uncertain etymology, like the Chinese stir-fry whose name translates literally as fish-fragrant but often appears in English as fish-flavored or even sea-flavored. From what I've read, as is true in China beef dishes aren't very common in Vietnam. And for the same reason--cattle are too important as beasts of burden to be eaten. The beef dishes are there mainly so as not to waste the meat when the beast can no longer do its chores. In the case of Shaking Beef, it was originally a banquet dish for special occasions. It became more commonly eaten when Vietnam became a French colony. I noticed that Phan's recipe calls for a pat of butter as a garnish. French influence?

-Paul W.

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