Lisbon- the 2 standout meals were Cervejaria Ramiro and the one we cooked at “home”. Ramiro is famous, but not a tourist trap (couple Uber drivers said best in Lisbon but “very expensive” - not by US standards). Reservations needed. Basically all shellfish (though you can get jamon iberica, manchego , or Lays chips as appetizers). When we asked re vegetables, waiter said “pasta, rice, vegetables are all very nice- cook and eat them at home, then come here.” But everything we had was spectacular - edible (brown) crab, shrimp in garlic, clams, tiger prawns, scarlet shrimp, langoustines. Maybe 50-60 euros a person (with a bottle of wine).
We had one night at “home”, our Lisbon friend suggested the Jan. 31 market near our place, wonderful market We got whole sardines (we broiled rather than look for charcoal), broccoli rabe, and mussels. Have to try something new, so cooked a dozen canilhas (aka spiny dye-murex, a sea snail that looks like a tiny conch- delicious).
What was amazing was even the regular supermarket had a huge seafood counter (plus a separate large counter with dozen + bacalhau options)
We also enjoyed a Georgian restaurant named TreeStory, incredibly lovely back garden and good food) and a wine/charcuterie bar in the TimeOut market, but I’ve lost name.
(but it’s the one next to traditional market, not in food hall). . Mesa de Frades is a lovely setting (a former chapel) with straightforward traditional food, but you’re going for the fado (and atmosphere). The only place I wouldn’t recommend was La Trattoria (I know, Italian in Lisbon?)- actually pretty great appetizers but I think most of us disappointed in mains (I had veal milanese, huge portion, but bone in - edges way overcooked, by bone really rare, only 25% was what I’d call proper). Great city to visit. Great metro, tons of inexpensive Ubers, tons of history. I especially recommend splurging (3.10 euros!) on the historic tram (try 28). Another cheap fun thing is taking ferry to Cacilhas- great views of the city.
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I doubt anyone here will ever go to Ebro Delta/La Rapita area, but if they do I highly recommend Cal Faiges in Poblenou del Delta. Rice fields and a bird sanctuary (flamingos!) surround, but best paella of my life, as well as prawns to rival Ramiro and incredibly light Bunyols de bacallà. Upscale, but still very cheap by NY standards.
Each night we hit a different tapas place in La Rapita, Juanita’s was my fave, but all good (Iberico ham, patatas with chorizo, anchovies, boquerones, grilled sardines ceviche potatoes with gorgonzola and bacon, etc).
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Besides Cal Faiges my favorite Catalonian meal was lunch at Quadrat, a gastrobar in Tortosa (lovely historic medieval town, Hemingway famously reported on its bombing during the civil war). Lunch was 15euros (including wine, they just leave bottles on table). Menu in Catalan, 4 choices of starter and main, coffee or dessert. Forget the Catalan name, but we had a stunning (what I’d call) gazpacho with egg and Iberico ham. I had pork belly on cheesy potatoes, Betsy a great bacalao filet (hard to tell it wasn’t fresh fish) wih greens and rice. Huge delicious portions (and the shiner wine quite palatable).
Our friends' finca outside the little village of Masdenverge was lovely, beautiful hills of olive and citrus trees. La Rapita is a nice small beach city, historic port (mostly 18th century) surrounded by more modern apartment buildings. Visitors seem to be mostly Spanish and French, with a few Brits and Germans.