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RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

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RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jenise » Sat Nov 28, 2020 10:37 am

This recipe is from NY chef Dan Kluger. His recipe included parmesan croutons but I'll skip those--if you want to make croutons, you know how. The magic here is the soup itself and the creaminess achieved, in part, by the inclusion of a whole head of cauliflower. In order to understand how much I loved this soup, you have to understand that a creamy tomato bisque is one of my favorite foods in the world. It's not easy to get close to, but be different from, anyone's beloved favorite and also become a beloved favorite but this soup did just that. I know I'll make it again and again and again.

Dan Kluger's Creamy Tomato Cauliflower Soup (makes 2 quarts)

1/4 c EVOO
1 tsp kosher salt
1 14.5 oz can whole peeled plum tomatoes
1 " " can water
1 medium Spanish onion, thinly sliced
2 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 1.5 lb head of cauliflower, cored and cut into 1 inch pieces
1/2 c cream
1 tblsp sherry vinegar
Optional and recommended (I added all three):
chopped chives*
cayenne pepper
fresh black pepper

*fresh is great, I grow it in summer but keep dried on hand for winter cooking, like now

1. Heat olive oil in a large saucepan, add onion and cook until soft, 5-7 minutes. Add garlic and continue cooking until garlic softens, about 3 minutes. Add cauliflower, cover, and continue cooking on low heat until the cauliflower's tender.

2. Meanwhile crush tomatoes by hand and add to the pot when the onions and garlic are ready with the water and 1 tsp salt. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook over low heat until the cauliflower is very tender, about 30 minutes (he says 15 but that wasn't my experience).

3. Add cream and pepper(s), blend until velvet smooth. Add vinegar and chives, if using. At this point he says the soup's done, and technically it was, but I returned mine to the stove and simmered it lightly for another 30 minutes to fully integrate the flavors.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jeff Grossman » Sat Nov 28, 2020 2:42 pm

Gosh, I don't know where I can get a 1" can of water. :mrgreen:

And I must be spoiled, living here in Da Big City... I can go buy fresh chives year round.
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jenise » Sat Nov 28, 2020 2:45 pm

Jeff Grossman wrote:Gosh, I don't know where I can get a 1" can of water. :mrgreen:

And I must be spoiled, living here in Da Big City... I can go buy fresh chives year round.


We get them in those little packets. Last one I bought, about three weeks ago, turned yellow about three days later. So after summer's ends when my own garden patch dies back, I keep dried chives on hand. I use them all winter.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jo Ann Henderson » Sun Nov 29, 2020 2:04 pm

This soup sounds perfect in every way to me. Going to make a batch this week. Re chives, I agree with dried. I dry a huge batch every year with frequent harvesting from my garden and use them up all season. I love the smell of them when I open the jar. They are almost a must in any scrambled eggs.
"...To undersalt deliberately in the name of dietary chic is to omit from the music of cookery the indispensable bass line over which all tastes and smells form their harmonies." -- Robert Farrar Capon
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jenise » Sun Nov 29, 2020 2:13 pm

It's absolutely divine, Jo Ann. The cauliflower is a miracle ingredient. And is you keep any pesto around? Thin it a little bit with EVOO and drizzle over the top of each serving--it's an elegant contrasting way to finish the soup.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jo Ann Henderson » Mon Nov 30, 2020 10:03 am

A week of cold weather ruined my basil before I could get my pesto made this year. And I haven't found a commercial brand that I really like. If you have a recommendation I am interested. Love pesto! :D
"...To undersalt deliberately in the name of dietary chic is to omit from the music of cookery the indispensable bass line over which all tastes and smells form their harmonies." -- Robert Farrar Capon
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Larry Greenly » Mon Nov 30, 2020 12:40 pm

Jo Ann Henderson wrote:A week of cold weather ruined my basil before I could get my pesto made this year. And I haven't found a commercial brand that I really like. If you have a recommendation I am interested. Love pesto! :D


I'm a fan of Buitoni pesto. Real ingredients, no fillers, etc.
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jenise » Mon Nov 30, 2020 1:59 pm

Jo Ann Henderson wrote:A week of cold weather ruined my basil before I could get my pesto made this year. And I haven't found a commercial brand that I really like. If you have a recommendation I am interested. Love pesto! :D


I like Costco's. It's a fresh product, requires refrigeration. I buy it in the fall when the new batches are made and keep it in the freezer. Always tastes freshly made, scoops out like ice cream, thaws quickly.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jenise » Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:01 pm

Larry Greenly wrote:
Jo Ann Henderson wrote:A week of cold weather ruined my basil before I could get my pesto made this year. And I haven't found a commercial brand that I really like. If you have a recommendation I am interested. Love pesto! :D


I'm a fan of Buitoni pesto. Real ingredients, no fillers, etc.


Wow, there's a blast from the past, and second time in several days. Saw an old pic on Fri of the Macy's parade and a big Buitoni sign was in the shot; reminded me that when I was a kid, it was a good brand of pasta available (green boxes!) on the west coast that disappeared a long time ago. I'm surprised to learn they still have products on the market.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jeff Grossman » Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:48 pm

We use the Filippo Berio pesto. It is important to add olive oil to it before use - it is too dense, as packed; the oil opens up the fragrance. We also like, but can no longer get, the Basilic from O & Co.
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Rahsaan » Mon Nov 30, 2020 3:19 pm

Jo Ann Henderson wrote:A week of cold weather ruined my basil before I could get my pesto made this year. And I haven't found a commercial brand that I really like. If you have a recommendation I am interested. Love pesto! :D


Here's one that is expensive but good. Whether or not it is worth it is a personal calculation. I tend to get by with our homegrown basil, even if I'm not perfect. But we also don't have to worry about cold weather wiping out our basil! https://www.gustiamo.com/pesto-genovese-rossi-since-1947
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Larry Greenly » Mon Nov 30, 2020 3:48 pm

The post about commercial pesto sauce intrigued me about different brands. Turns out there are lots and lots of brands. I remembered an ATK taste test some time ago and found it online. Since I'm not an ATK subscriber, all I can offer is this description of their testing method:

Prepared Pesto
Published March 2016
HOW WE TESTED
We like basil pesto tossed with pasta or roasted potatoes, spooned over grilled chicken, and as a flavorful spread on pizza and sandwiches. When fresh basil is in season, it’s easy enough to make pesto from scratch. But for a quick weeknight meal, especially in the colder months, store-bought pesto is a tempting option. We scooped up seven traditional basil pestos (also called pesto Genovese), priced from $2.99 to $11.49 per container, including shelf-stable glass jars, a shelf-stable squeezable tube, and a refrigerated tub. We sampled each pesto plain and tossed with hot pasta.

Packaged Pestos Are Generally Disappointing
We’ll cut to the chase: Most samples were subpar. Traditional pesto Genovese is made from just basil, pine nuts, cheese, garlic, and olive oil. But several products in our lineup had long lists of ingredients that included outliers like yeast extract, potato flakes, and cashews. One brand bulked up the basil with cheaper spinach, a move our tasters emphatically disapproved of. And even if the pestos had the classic ingredients, too much salt or garlic could overwhelm the basil flavor. Worst of all, many of the products also had odd musty, bitter, and sour off-flavors. In fact, just one of the pestos earned our full approval. It didn’t have the same concentrated basil flavor as homemade, but its thick, creamy texture and pronounced cheesy flavor (it contains both Parmesan and Romano) made it the clear favorite in both of our tastings.

Why Do So Many of Them Taste Oddly Sour?
After confirming that none of the products was near its expiration date, we started searching for something to explain those off-flavors. Nuts and olive oil go rancid quickly when exposed to light or air (a process called oxidation), and basil’s flavor starts to fade once its leaves are chopped. Any of these ingredients can go bad before packaging and may develop off-flavors over time in the jar. As a result, many manufacturers rely on preservatives like lactic acid and acetic acid. Although they’re intended to ensure freshness, they have the unfortunate side effect of adding noticeable sourness.

Our Favorite Prepared Pesto Products
The best product was the only refrigerated pesto, one of just two products that lack preservatives. The other, our runner-up, was a cheese-free, shelf-stable pesto sold in a glass jar. They both use primarily olive oil, which is slower to oxidize and go rancid than vegetable oils. But the jarred pesto, although it was our runner-up, was polarizing. Many tasters missed the sharp, creamy bite of Italian cheese; others liked that the “nutty,” buttery flavor of cashews and pine nuts stood out. As a result, we can only recommend it with reservations. The top prepared pesto, Buitoni Pesto with Basil ($6.29 for an 11-oz tub), was our clear favorite.
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Paul Winalski » Mon Nov 30, 2020 4:54 pm

The local supermarket carries Buitoni fresh pasta and their pesto. It's the brand I've been buying for years.

-Paul W.
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jo Ann Henderson » Mon Dec 07, 2020 10:55 pm

Made the soup this weekend. Loved it! It's very cauliflower forward, which I can appreciate. Love cauliflower (and all of the cruciferous vegetables, really). Tonight, I'm heating up some to eat over pasta with a dollop of pesto and parm!!
"...To undersalt deliberately in the name of dietary chic is to omit from the music of cookery the indispensable bass line over which all tastes and smells form their harmonies." -- Robert Farrar Capon
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jenise » Tue Dec 08, 2020 12:17 pm

Mine did not seem cauliflower forward, the cauliflower diluted but pretty much disappeared into the tomato component, adding bulk and taming acidity but without having any pronounced flavor. But I used a smallish head (and didn't weigh it). I wouldn't have minded, however, if it had been more so. Glad you loved it.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Dale Williams » Fri Dec 11, 2020 9:40 am

Betsy asked for vegetarian for a few days. Tonight we're doing an onion galette, and I thought this soup would be a good accompaniment. I know soup and wine isn't easy sometimes, but I was in city last night and want wine tonight. With the galette I was thinking dry Riesling (since reminds me of flammekueche), but never really like Riesling and tomato. Any ideas Jenise?
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jenise » Fri Dec 11, 2020 4:42 pm

Chianti went great. Young pinot noir, which loves tomato, would pair well too. The combo with the onion gallette should be great.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Dale Williams » Fri Dec 11, 2020 5:01 pm

ok, lighter red it is!
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Dale Williams » Sat Dec 12, 2020 1:25 pm

Chianti worked fine.
I really liked the soup. I'm not a big soup maker, and faced a little indecision as recipe doesn't specify when to add cauliflower.Ended up adding right after garlic and sauteeing for about 4-5 minutes before adding tomatoes and water. I had one of those cauliflower heads where it looks moderately sized until you pull back outside leaves and core, and are left with a softball. So mine wasn't especially cauliflower forward, though it was evident.
I've never found a supermarket pesto I enjoyed. I make extra (basil or radish leaf) in season and freeze, as long as I'm careful re air that's better to me than supermarket. Even in winter I can get nice big bunches at Stew Leonards (local store) if I run out.
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jenise » Sat Dec 12, 2020 2:10 pm

Dale, sorry re the cauliflower instruction. I recall toying with whether to relay Kluger's instructions exactly or editorialize. Apparently, in my indecision, I did neither. He said add the cauliflower where you intuited it and continue sauteeing until the cauliflower softens. I found that there wasn't enough retained moisture to adequately steam it so added a quarter cup of water to the pot to speed things up.

But: glad you liked it, and that the chianti worked.
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jeff Grossman » Sat Dec 12, 2020 7:49 pm

Dale Williams wrote:I make extra (basil or radish leaf)...

Radish leaf?
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jenise » Sun Dec 13, 2020 2:27 pm

So many cool pestos. Talked to a local yesterday who harvests Doug Fir sprigs in spring and makes pesto with it.
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Dale Williams » Sun Dec 13, 2020 10:01 pm

Jeff Grossman wrote:
Dale Williams wrote:I make extra (basil or radish leaf)...

Radish leaf?


While nothing will supplant basil in my heart, I'm equally addicted to radish leaf pesto. Anytime I get a good bunch from farmers market ("normal", French breakfast/Malaga/Cherry Belle, I think watermelon or daikon greens are too bitter/strong, better to cook) I use greens for pesto. Wonderful peppery flavor profile.

The fir idea is interesting, but I'd have to taste before committing,

My last Blue Hill box had a delicious kale pesto, but think it used a lot of garlic and herbs, most leafy greens need a little push
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Re: RCP: Creamy Tomato and Cauliflower Soup

by Jeff Grossman » Sun Dec 13, 2020 10:55 pm

Dale Williams wrote:
Jeff Grossman wrote:
Dale Williams wrote:I make extra (basil or radish leaf)...

Radish leaf?

While nothing will supplant basil in my heart, I'm equally addicted to radish leaf pesto. Anytime I get a good bunch from farmers market ("normal", French breakfast/Malaga/Cherry Belle, I think watermelon or daikon greens are too bitter/strong, better to cook) I use greens for pesto. Wonderful peppery flavor profile.

We don't buy radishes in this household but, for the sake of this experiement, perhaps I will. Sounds interesting. (I have a cookbook that offers recipes for other variant pesti... pistachio, rosemary, and so on.)

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