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Lebanese Food

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Frank Deis

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Lebanese Food

by Frank Deis » Sun May 24, 2015 1:02 pm

Probably like many of you, I bought Ottolenghi's cook-books and have been enjoying recipes from those -- Plenty and Jerusalem in particular. And I've become aware that the ancient culture of Jerusalem owes something to the time it spent in the Ottoman empire. "Turkish" recipes are found from Istanbul down to Alexandria and beyond, there is a lot of shared cuisine in Lebanon, Syria, Iraq, Egypt, and Turkey.

At any rate I recently bought a copy of "Rose Water and Orange Blossoms" by Maureen Abood. She was born in America but grew up in a Christian Lebanese family (a lot of Christian Arabs came to America from Lebanon including Danny Thomas and half of the car dealers in New Jersey). What makes her book charming is her reminiscences about her family, her impressions when she finally went to visit Lebanon, etc. When there is overlap between her cookbook and Ottolenghi's, the difference is that her recipe has 4 ingredients and Ottolenghi's has 14. He's a chef, she isn't. But that makes her recipes easy to attempt since I often have everything I need right on hand without doing any shopping (I have an interesting pantry already). They sometimes come out a little bland but I can use my own talents to make positive changes.

What has really made this interesting is that I finally realized that the Phoenician Bakery, a local shop where I go for hard to find Persian ingredients, is really a Lebanese grocery. There is just enough overlap that I can find things like dried rosebuds and angelica necessary for some Persian dishes.

I started out with something a little ambitious. Stuffed Koosa Squash. They had a big box of Koosas, which are a variety of Zucchini (you can use regular Zucchini) and they sold the device to scoop out a hole in the center, which turns a Zucchini into a kind of test tube. You then fill the test tube with ground meat mixed with rice and spices and poach in a flavorful tomato sauce until tender. And serve topped with the sauce. It was interesting. Not as interesting taste-wise as most recipes from Ottolenghi, but you know you are eating a "national dish" of Lebanon and that adds to it. They also have several kinds of Labneh (a thick tangy yogurt) and Zaatar-topped flatbreads and sesame cookies etc.

Anyway I am having fun and as I said I can pick any recipe in the book and generally execute it quickly and easily with only a few special ingredients to look for. And my family seems to be enjoying the journey.
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Jenise

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Re: Lebanese Food

by Jenise » Tue May 26, 2015 1:16 pm

I love the sound of that zucchini dish. Am going to have to look for a pic of the squash. If you used regular zucchini, how would you create the hollow space--and apple corer?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Frank Deis

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Re: Lebanese Food

by Frank Deis » Wed May 27, 2015 4:06 pm

The tool looks just like an apple corer but it's like 7 inches long. Sort of a curved semicircular metal blade.
And Koosa squashes look just like regular zucchini except shorter and maybe a little pear shaped, fatter.
I actually did a couple of zucchini as well. In the book she gives 2 or three stuffing recipes and then refers to them for stuffing cabbage or grape leaves or koosas or whatever. I think what I like about the book is that the simplicity of the recipes pulls me in, and then I have to "Ottolenghi" them up a little with extra spices, some garlic, some cayenne, etc.

This weekend St Sharbat's, a local Lebanese church, is having a festival and if it's like the Greek festival all the ladies of the church buckle down and cook tons of their best stuff and you can go buy it as takeout, or sit down and eat. It's across the river from my office but practically in walking distance. I should go over and try some of the authentic stuff.

My Keller book arrived but I haven't had a chance to open it yet.

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