Let's talk about scones

Let’s talk about scones.

Obviously, they’re enormously popular. You see them everywhere---coffee shops, restaurants, grocery stores, both “fresh” and in mixes, and even in bulk in places like Trader Joe’s. They’re de rigeur for high teas and tennis parties. Skim through the internet and you’ll find all kinds of references and recipes for the usually triangular pastries.

Acknowledged as Anglo-Irish in origin, they began to make a resurgence in the U.S. at about the same time that Starbucks and Peet’s Coffees were re-ordering the drinking habits of the country. They’ve remained popular ever since, and are as strong---if not stronger---than ever.

My question is: Why? Or secondarily, why do most scones taste like wet cardboard…only they crumble like dry cardboard?

It’s anecdotal, and maybe unfair, but I’ll say it anyway: there are damned few scones that live up to anyone’s expectations. They are either leaden and greasy and thick, or leaden and dry with little holding the dough together; and both types crumble incessantly so that it’s almost impossible to eat a scone neatly. Seriously, if you look at where scone-eaters have been you see piles and windrows of crumbs. I’m sure scavenging birds and squirrels are fond of scones, but I don’t see the appeal to humans there.

Add to that the sad fact that most scones have little flavor (outside of that dull, wet cardboard essence) and that’s why they come with so many versions of berries and nuts and fruits and spices.

So will someone rally to the defense of the poor scone? What makes a scone so great, in favor of other pastry possibilities? Where’s the love for the scone? Shall scones remain scorned?

When I was a teenager my mother used to make scones for breakfast. For a growing boy like myself they were a bit more filling than some other pastry options. But they definitely were not as sweet and when you make them yourself you have much more control over what goes in and how the quality turns out. They were (naturally) quite good.

But, I had the most horrendous scone last year in Virginia at an event. Of course it was way too sweet for no good reason, but then it was topped with crystalized sugar AND studded with sacriligeous white chocolate chunks. I still remember the horror of biting into it and finding that white chocolate grease. It boggles the mind.

I'll have a croissant. With or without jam. Thanks!

I don't know much about scones. But I am an aficionado of Cream Teas!!

Our first trip to England was in 1980, the year before our son was born. We rented a little car and drove out of London towards Cornwall. I thought we were getting marvelous gas mileage, until the car rolled to a halt. The gauge was stuck, it said we were nearly full when we were totally empty. Fortunately we had run out of gas near the Holne Chase Hotel in Devonshire, and we managed to get rescued, and took a room there for the night. This was rural luxury, an ancient hunting lodge with a gourmet chef. And while we were getting over our car experience, it was mid-afternoon and they set us up at an outside table with Devonshire cream teas.

If you have not had a cream tea in Devon -- you have something to look forward to. The "biscuit" was evidently a scone, and on top there was some heavenly Devonshire clotted cream, and some beautiful strawberry preserves, served with a soothing cup of tea. Oh my! Devonshire clotted cream is in the neighborhood of sour cream, but less sour and much thicker. Also kinda like crème fraiche, but thicker. If butter could have the taste of fresh cream, it might be clotted cream. The combination of flavors is something that sticks in the mind and makes you wish for more.

At any rate, we had a lovely night in a room constructed in the 14th (?) century -- oh and after supper we had port and Stilton. Quite an experience. When we went back to England in 1997 I asked and found out that I could no longer afford the place. And now it is out of business.

But we had cream teas wherever we could -- Cornish cream teas are nearly as good but slightly different in construction.

I would imagine that a good tea room in NYC or anywhere else would be able to provide a cream tea. And I have bought clotted cream at Wegman's and other "gourmet shops." I don't think you would lose much by putting clotted cream and a good strawberry jam on an American "biscuit."

http://www.holne-chase.co.uk/history-holne-chase

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cream_tea

Great story, Frank.

And I'll support you on the cream teas. Never had one in Devon, but my first was in Ireland and it was similar to your description. Had it with one of the heartiest Irish teas I've ever had, and boy was the combo outstanding.

Same word, different products

The scone in Starbucks isn't the same beast as the one Frank used as a base for clotted cream. The British scone is more akin to the US biscuit.

Every Sunday for lunch we have scones with jam home-made from fruits we picked hedgerows.

There were a couple of related threads a while ago of interest, Celia's The Easiest Scones in the World ! and Maria Samm's Scones

It’s anecdotal, and maybe unfair, but I’ll say it anyway: there are damned few scones that live up to anyone’s expectations.

I agree. Maybe I don't "get it" but most I've tasted are lousy. I don't buy them. I eat them 4-5 times a year when some else serves them and I'm always dissapointed. I think its one of those things where for some reason your expectations are high and you're always dissapointed. Most I've had are just terrible.

I don't agree at all that they are enormously popular. Donuts, bagels and muffins are enormously popular.

Outside a few delis in NYC, you don't find bagels; only "bagels". A Kaiser roll with a hole in the middle is not a bagel.

I think the problem with American "scones" is the same as the problem with American versions of "Irish Soda Bread"

American commercial bakers want to make something "special" and so they 1) add sugar 2) sometimes add inappropriate fruits such as raisins, currants, other fruit-cakey ingredients and 3) for some reason they dry out the product. And if you look at images of "scones" on Google Image Search you will see that most of them are triangular and FROSTED with a white sugary frosting.

Both the real British scone and the real Irish Soda Bread are light years away from these American re-imaginings. They are tender and they taste like wholesome food and not some sort of confection. Neither is sweet in the original. Honestly my palate probably could not have told the "scone" I had in Devon from a very good American biscuit...

I think the major differentiator between the scones I had in Starbucks and the British ones are eggs. The Starbucks ones are made with eggs which give them a cake like sponginess. To me they are sponge cakes.

As per my recipe on the other thread, I like fruit scones so I include sultanas - but no sugar.

Concur with the Irish Soda Bread, Frank. "Simple", but devilishly difficult to make correctly. Often have the same problem with so-called ISB made here that almost literally distintegrates into crumbleicity, as if following Yeats dictum. And the taste and texture is akin to trying to eat sawdust. Except sawdust is possibly more tasty.

On the few occasions that I've had scones that did taste like biscuits (American biscuits, I mean) they often went to far into the greasy/mushy zone of poorly made biscuits. And biscuits are touchy little things----if too dense they become leaden sinkers; if too soft they go greasy. And as many will claim, when it comes to biscuits no one made them better than my Mother. (Which was interesting because she was otherwise and in most cases an ordinary to poor cook. With the exception of pan-fried chicken.)

er May » Thu May 10, 2012 11:09 am
I think the major differentiator between the scones I had in Starbucks and the British ones are eggs. The Starbucks ones are made with eggs which give them a cake like sponginess.

FWIW, I agree about the Starbucks "cake like sponginess" but I don't think eggs are the problem. In fact, there are plenty of authentic British scone recipes that incorporate eggs. Rather, it has to do with how the scone is put together. Don't skimp on the butter (I've yet to find a good low fat scone). Butter rubbed into the dry ingredients with finger tips rather than cut in with pastry cutter or food processor. A relatively wet dough. Liquid ingredients incorporated gently. Minimal handling. No overbaking. These are the steps that give a light, moist, flaky scone. Eggs can add an extra richness to the dough but in my experience don't result in the the kind of texture found at Starbucks; that comes from violating some or all of my other "rules".

[Jenise]

My first experience with scones were ones I purchased at Marks & Spencer when I lived in Manchester. Round, cakey and ever so mildly sweet, I adored them. Nowadays I use a Wolfgang Puck recipe that pretty well duplicates the Marks & Spencer version--butter, cream, salt, baking powder, possibly a tad of baking soda too, sugar and flour--no egg. I can't imagine a scone that isn't slightly sweet--leave out the sugar, and it's just a biscuit.

To tell the truth, with all that jam, I might have missed a bit of sweetness...

But as I've said, I thought it was very like a biscuit.

From my reading over the years what I know as a scone is what American folk call a biscuit. A light risen product, no sugar or eggs, just flour leavening butter milk. Quite plain to take the richness of the jams and preserves often served with them. or just with butter. Of course there are endless variations as you would expect with such a simple and old recipe. My mum would add raisins for a change or top with grated cheese. Below I have included a standard scone recipe such as my mum would make. Also for fun I have included the recipe for the legendary Flo's pumpking scones. Flo was the wife of a long serving Premier of Queensland and herself later became a senator. The recipe is often mentioned with affectionate humour.



Scones

2 cups flour
3 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
60 g butter/margarine
3 Tbs cold milk

1. Sift dry ingredients.
2. Rub in butter until resembles breadcrumbs.
3. Mix to a fairly dry dough with the milk.
4. Knead lightly and pat out to required thickness.
5. Cut out as desired and brush with milk.
6. Bake 220C 10 to 12 minutes.

Servings: 6

Flo's Pumpkin Scones

1 Tbs butter
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 tsp salt
1 egg
1 cup mashed pumpkin
2 1/4 cups SR flour

1. Beat butter, sugar and salt with electric mixer. Add egg, then pumpkin and stir in the flour. Torn on to floured board and cut. Place in tray on top shelf of very hot oven for 15-20 minutes. 225-250C

Servings: 6

I make a fabulous scone, if I do say so myself. Flaky, not crumbly, moist interior, slightly crisp exterior.

I make a breakfast variety usually using dried currants or dried cranberries, and I make savory versions. Neither is sweet.

Will dig out the recipe if anyone wants to try it.

[Robin Garr]

Will dig out the recipe if anyone wants to try it.

Oh, please do!