by Bob Henrick » Wed Jul 06, 2011 9:49 am
Here is the recipe I promised in the post above. The original poster was Victor de la Serna of Madrid España, and editor of El Mundo news paper. He credits Chef Carlos Galbis for the recipe.
Not even for the "basic" Paella Valenciana can we find a single recipe
(fortunately). Here's one of many, particularly orthodox since only various
green and white beans are used as vegetables. (Serves six as a main course;
use a 16-to-18 inch paella):
(The recipe itself, by local chef Juan Carlos Galbis, is a bit debatable.
But the steps are correct. Please also note one of those gizmos which,
applied to a gas stove, allow for equal head distribution, always crucial.
Ideally, in Valencia, the paella valenciana is a country picnic dish that
you make on a fire of either orange tree branches or vines. As you all
know, the type of wood is crucial for such dishes, since the steam will
condense above it and the aromas and flavors will fall back into it. If you
use pine wood, you'll get an unpleasantly resiny paella.)
More notes. "Paella valenciana" is the mother of all paella dishes, and the
only one that, in Valencia, uses the recipient's name; the others are known
as "arroz con..." ("rice with..."): seafood, garbanzo beans, squid,
whatever.
Ingredients:
6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (either Andalusian, Greek, Portuguese or
southern Italian, i.e. of a soft, sweet, ripe style; not a "green" Tuscan,
Umbrian or Catalan oil.)
2 lb. (900 grams) chicken joints and 1 lb. 9 oz. (700 grams) rabbit joints,
cut into rather large pieces.
12 oz. (350 grams) flat, wide, tender green beans (called "ferraura" in
Valencia), cut in 1-inch bits.
8 oz. (200 grams), partially cooked (for one hour, after soaking them in
cold water overnight), small, white, tender kidney beans, called "tabella"
in Valencia. (If, in season, you can get them fresh, right off the pod, use
them raw).
If available (they can be found, canned, in some shops specializing in
Spanish products), 10 oz. (300 grams) cooked, very large (almost 1 inch
long), dense, white kidney beans of the kind called "garrofó" in Valencia.
About 1/2 gallon (2 litres) water (see the previous note).
150 grams (5 oz) ripe tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped.
2 whole heads of garlic, with the outer skin layers peeled off (for
seasoning; these will not be eaten).
2 tsp. Murcia "pimenteón" or sweet Hungarian paprika powder.
1/2 tsp. La Mancha saffron threads, crushed (with the help of some coarse
salt in a mortar), then dissolved in a little warm water.
1 lb 2 oz (500 grams) Spanish medium-grained rice, unwashed. (See previous note. Many years ago an Italian rice called Avorio, not to be confused with the better-known risotto rice, Arborio, was available in the US, and it was perfect for paella. I don't know if it's still around.)
Salt.
24 small mountain snails (called "vaquetes" in Valencia). If not used, add a sprig of fresh rosemary, which will give the needed rustic touch.
Fire or heat is crucial. With regular home stoves, you may have to rotate
the paella on two burners, always a delicate trick. Modern electric tops
giving heat on a large surface can help. Valencian homes often have metal rings (see the photos in the above mentioned web site) to re-distribute a gas fire in a circle. You'll need a brisk heat to sauté the meat and vegetables, then a progressively lower heat to cook the rice. (Which is easy outdoors with a nice fire of vine cuttings that slowly dies down, of course...)
Steps:
1. Make sure the paella is level before even starting the fire. (Pouring
the oil in it will give you a perfect idea).
2. Heat the oil, then sauté the chicken and rabbit pieces until quite
golden. Sprinkle salt over each of them.
3. Add and sauté the green beans (and kidney beans, if they are fresh and
uncooked) for a couple of minutes. Then add the whole garlic heads, the
pre-cooked kidney beans and the chopped tomato, and cook it for an instant,
always stirring. Add the paprika powder, stir in (and very quickly add the
water; if not, the paprika will stick and burn unpleasantly).
4. The water is critical. The exact amount will determine the texture of
the dish, and it is hard to gauge; about twice as much as the amount of
rice used, plus some water for the initial cooking period without the rice,
is a good rule of thumb, but experience and a couple slightly soupy or
slightly sticky paellas may be needed to learn the right amount...). Pour
three quarters of the water on the meat and vegetables, add the snails if
you have them, or the rosemary sprig, and the saffron solution.
5. Bring water to a boil with a brisk fire, cook for 5 minutes. Add water
if the level, through evaporation, goes below 1 inch or half the height of
the pan.
6. Pour the rice. From the box, draw a cross with it so that it hardly
surpasses the surface of the boiling water. Then distribute it evenly
through the paella. Taste and rectify the salt content if needed.
7. Cook over a brisk fire for some 10 minutes, then lower it and cook for
5-10 more minutes, until the water has been absorbed and the rice is almost
tender. When it's not quite done, remove from heat and let stand ("rest",
as they say in Valencia) for about five minutes, until it's just tender but
not sticky. Eat RIGHT AWAY!
The vegetarian version (we like to call it "vegetable-only"; vegetarianism
is not wildly popular in Spain), with just the above mentioned vegetables
(plus maybe some green and/or red pepper strips and some tender artichoke
hearts) follows the same steps, except one important detail: you sauté the
vegetables AND add the uncooked rice, briefly sautéeing it and coating it
with the oil for a few seconds, before adding the water or (in this case,
and if your dietary beliefs allow it) some light chicken stock to give some
more substance to the dish.
As they say in the Valencian language, "bon profit!"
Last edited by Bob Henrick on Fri Jul 08, 2011 11:44 am, edited 2 times in total.
Bob Henrick