IOTM: Chicken with oyster mushrooms

[Robin Garr]

One of the policies that I admire at Whole Foods (although I'd be happy if they did more of it) is that they allow the local buyer some latitude to stock quality produce from local and regional providers. Accordingly, our Whole Foods usually has the local Chelsea's free-range eggs (especially nice because they're pull-dated), Capriole and Kenny Mattingly cheeses, Sunergos coffee beans and lots more. Yesterday I notice to my delight a recent addition that's IOTM-related: mushrooms from Sheltowee Farm! These are very high-end farmed mushrooms from Bath County, Ky., which is in the Daniel Boone National Forest, not quite Appalachia but a rural area northeast of Lexington, and buying them feels like supporting a pal because Sheltowee's Rebecca Webb is a frequent participant in our Louisville Restaurant Forum.

Anyway, these oyster mushrooms were outstanding, delicate, clean and fresh, sold in nice round clusters attached at the root, and while they're not cheap at $24.99 a pound, a pound is a <i>lot</i> of these featherweight 'shrooms by volume. I bought about 4 ounces - a good-size paper bag full - and brought them home with the intent of using them immediately.

It turned out that Mary thought she was coming down with a cold and wished for a bland dinner, but I proposed something "delicate" instead.

Without taking time to organize a formal recipe, I'll just describe the simple procedure: Simmer a whole chicken (Eberly Amish free-range), cut up into parts, in salted water with some peppercorns and garlic cloves until the chicken is very tender and the liquid nice and brothy. Let the chicken cool, reserve the breasts for another use, and pull the meat off the thighs, legs and wings, discarding skin and bones. Melt about 1 ounce butter with a couple of smashed ginger coins, then whisk it into a roux with 2 tablespoons flour. When the roux starts to turn "red," whisk in about 1 cup of the chicken broth to make a thick bechamel, discarding the ginger after the sauce thickens. Season with S&P, stir in the chicken to warm through, and stir in the mushrooms, cooking gently just heat to warm them through. Serve over rice made with a little more of the chicken broth in place of water.

The mushrooms were sweet and very, very fine, with that elusive oyster mushroom flavor that isn't really 'oyster' but ... what? Durn, I can't describe it. The light fresh ginger flavor and the chicken flavors were perfectly compatible, and the dish was indeed delicate but not bland.

It's probably a white-wine meal, but we were in the mood for a red, and happily, a light Loire red - Breton 2004 "Beaumont" Chinon - worked out very well.

Sounds delicious Robin. I'll have to try -- Oyster mushrooms are probably my favorite of the mildly flavored variety.

One note -- when you get them in a clump like that, do you cut the stems off? A few weeks ago, I made Pappardelle tossed with wild mushrooms, garlic, olive and white truffle oils. The dish was great, but the stems of the Oysters were inedibly tough. Wondered if that is the norm, as I don't recall that being the case when using them previously.

[Robin Garr]

One note -- when you get them in a clump like that, do you cut the stems off?

Good question! Most of the oyster mushroom references on the Web say the foot of the stem is tough, so cut it off and discard it. I basically did that so the petals would fall into separate bite-size pieces, but when I looked at Sheltowee's stems, they seemed plenty tender enough to eat. I didn't save them, but next time I think I will.

Bottom line, I'd look at your specific 'shrooms and make the logical decision case-by-case.

Hello --

This is straight from the horse's mouth

We typically cut the oyster mushrooms so that just the petal is used. You can save the "clump" for stock if you wish. Robin is correct that if the stem is small enough, it is not too tough. Generally though, the size of our oysters would require the trimming.

We also sell shiitake mushrooms at the Whole Foods in Louisville and in reference to the stems, most definitely trim the stems unless the mushroom is small (less than an inch in diameter).

Of final note, I will double check the price on Monday, but I believe Whole Foods is only charging $12.99 - $13.99 for our mushooms (oyster and shiitake). We are certified 100% USDA organic.

Thanks!

they're not cheap at $24.99 a pound

Wow! That's almost double what we're paying for porcini.

Stuart --

Please see my post regarding price.

Also, a note about location and prices. We have been out to Oregon, Washington, and California a few times. The prices for mushrooms out there is very different than the Midwest. For example, chanterelles at peak season sell for $2.50 - $5.00/lb out west where here in Kentucky, the go easily for $16 - $20/lb. It has a lot to do with the source and whether or not the mushrooms are being shipped in or are being supplied locally from foragers.

[Robin Garr]

Of final note, I will double check the price on Monday, but I believe Whole Foods is only charging $12.99 - $13.99 for our mushooms (oyster and shiitake). We are certified 100% USDA organic.

Rebecca, thanks for joining the conversation! I know you're a regular on the Louisville Restaurants Forum, but it's nice to see you over here.

I'm absolutely sure that I paid $24.99 a pound for them at Whole Foods earlier this month. I actually got a good-size bag of about 4 to 6 ounces, and it cost about $7. Maybe it was mis-marked, but that's definitely what I paid.

Of final note, I will double check the price on Monday, but I believe Whole Foods is only charging $12.99 - $13.99 for our mushooms (oyster and shiitake). We are certified 100% USDA organic.

Rebecca, thanks for joining the conversation! I know you're a regular on the Louisville Restaurants Forum, but it's nice to see you over here.

I'm absolutely sure that I paid $24.99 a pound for them at Whole Foods earlier this month. I actually got a good-size bag of about 4 to 6 ounces, and it cost about $7. Maybe it was mis-marked, but that's definitely what I paid.

Boy, things have changed a bunch since we opened Mudd's (1980.) I bought both shimeji and shiitake mushrooms from a local grower (Hayward) between $3.50 and $5.50 per pound.

I'm absolutely sure that I paid $24.99 a pound for them at Whole Foods earlier this month. I actually got a good-size bag of about 4 to 6 ounces, and it cost about $7. Maybe it was mis-marked, but that's definitely what I paid.

Robin --

When my husband (Bill) delivered to Whole Foods today, he checked the price for our mushrooms. They are charging $13.99/lb for shiitake and $16.99/lb for oyster mushrooms. He questioned the produce asst. manager about the price difference since we are selling them at the same price. They looked into it and currently, it has to do with the PLU code. The produce manager that we work with (Jennifer) was going to work on fixing it so both oysters and shiitake would be $13.99/lb.

Thanks for the continual support!