In California last weekend, I helped a friend cook for a large dinner party. She chose the recipe below for her dessert because she wanted to serve something more plain than not that would go well with sweet wines but not compete. Looking at the recipe, I feared it actually might be too plain--no spice!--and suggested that we add a topping made from orange segments (they have a most excellent naval tree in their yard) tossed with honey, lemon zest and a basil chiffonade.
The cake is a nearly flourless cake made in a single fat layer, like what Europeans patissieres call a sponge, I think. It goes together in minutes once you toast the almonds, and a food processor is your friend for its ability to grind the almonds and the carrots. You mix those and a little flour plus egg yolks, then fold in egg whites. Voila, cake. The recipe (from Food and Wine) showed the cake made in a fluted cake/tart pan, and we used one of those too.
Well, I was wrong that the cake was too plain. The almonds brought a lot more flavor than I expected, and I could have eaten the whole cake by myself. But I wasn't wrong that the simple fruit and herb topping turned the simple cake into a more complete, modern dessert. No recipe for the topping, and any fruit would do really. The cake is a great blank canvas of a thing. And what we did I just made it up on the spot, but it's as simple as it sounds--you can prep the oranges whenever, just don't cut or add the basil until the last minute. I would most happily substitute peaches for the oranges, come that season. To serve 15, we used about 8 oranges, 3 tablespoons honey, the zest of one lemon and maybe half a cup of basil chiffonade.
I hate making desserts because I don't actually care to eat them, but it's an entertaining neccessity and this is one I'll make again and again myself.
Ingredients
2 cups whole blanched almonds (10 ounces)
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Salt
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
3 large carrots (10 ounces), coarsely chopped
4 large eggs, separated
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting
Directions
1.Preheat the oven to 400°. Generously butter and flour a 10-inch springform or fluted cake pan. Toast the almonds on a rimmed baking sheet for about 8 minutes, or until lightly browned. Transfer the almonds to a large plate to cool to room temperature. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°.
2.In a large mixing bowl, using a fork, blend the flour with the baking powder, lemon zest and a pinch of salt. In a food processor, grind the toasted almonds with the sugar to a fine powder; do not let the nuts turn into a paste. Add the almond powder to the flour mixture in the bowl. Add the carrots to the processor and whir until very finely chopped; add them to the bowl. Add the egg yolks to the bowl and stir until blended.
3.In a large stainless steel bowl, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they hold firm peaks. Using a rubber spatula, stir one-third of the egg whites into the carrot mixture to loosen it, then gently fold in the remaining whites until the batter is just blended.
4.Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 30 minutes, or until the cake is just set. Transfer the cake to a rack and let it cool slightly in the pan. Unmold the cake onto a serving dish. Just before serving, sift confectioners' sugar over the top. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Make Ahead
The cake can be wrapped in foil and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Do not sift the confectioners' sugar over the top before refrigerating. .