by Daniel Rogov » Sun Feb 27, 2011 5:48 pm
About five years ago so-called Brazillian steak houses took the Mediterranean by storm opening in Athens, Istanbul, Izmir, Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Beirut and Damascus. Alas, nearly all of these were nothing more than poor imitations of Brazillian churascurarias, serving huge quantities of the cheapest possible cuts of beef made tender only by long marination and then cooking on vertical spits over charcoals. The true churascaria has no vertical spits. What they have is two deep long pits, both long enough to spit roast a whole side of beef, and several pigs simultaneously, the pits filled on alternate nights with hard wood (jacaranda being the wood of choice) and those burned until reduced to charcoals.
Meats of the highest quality are served in huge portions, invariably accompanied by equally huge plates of thin cut French fries and a somewhat humongous fresh salad, that always including hearts of palm. And the de rigueur beverages are either beer or, for the brave of heart, cachaca with beer chasers. As to the beer, always served in iced pitchers and when the ice on the surface goes down to the half-point the pitcher is automatically replaced with a fresh pitchers.
As to memories, my first visit to Rio de Janeiro was a three month stay in 1968. Dinner at the finest churascuria at that time was an amazingly reasonable US$5 including service. On a more recent visit in 1992 the same meal at the same churascuria was the equivalent of US$35 per person. And, to tell the truth, damned good value even at that price.
I can gladly report that after a 4 - 5 year reign of popularity primarily among the young, most of these Mediterranean imitations have long since folded up their tents and vanished into the night.
Best
Rogov