Checking in from Provence

[Jenise]

Bonjour!

Today is day four of our Provencal vacation. We are having a GREAT time, which on the one hand we expected to but about which I will admit ro some initial apprehension as none of these three couples have ever spent the night under the same roof before and there are some very strong personalities here. As it is, there was nothing to worry about, we have all settled into natural roles that play to our strengths without anyone seemingly having to compromise: Bill Spohn, familiar to all of you, is the chief driver, Bob is the chief navigator, Dave and I run the kitchen, and Sharon and Suzanne do all the cleanup.

Our house is fantastic. Part of the 600 year old walls of the tiny village of Sablet which occupies a high point in the valley shared by Gigondas and Vacqueyras, each about two miles distant, it is named Les Quatre Terrasses for the spacious outdoor spaces that overlook the valley. Four stories tall and suprisingly, delightfully spacious with top notch decor (every room looks like a Pottery Barn advertisement), we have four bedrooms and each floor also has it's own expansive sitting room. Remodeled eight years ago top to bottom, including electrical, plumbing and appliances, we have everything we need at a level of luxury that exceeds expectations.

Though the kitchen isn't as well outfitted as we would have hoped: Dave brought his own knives so that shortfall was anticipated and dealt with, but we're desperate for tongs and a few other implements that we're at a loss without. Part of our shopping plans for today will rectify those things.

We could also use a Gaggenau rep to show us how to properly work the friggin' oven. All those unintrusive little buttons and computerized pictures which should surpass language, alas, do not. We managed to pull off a terrific roast lamb shoulder on Saturday night and two beautiful chickens last night, but not without serving Saturday's dinner an hour later than planned as it took two hours for our little ballotine to reach medium, and then trying to prevent that from happening again on Sunday, increasing the temperature to 300C to get some discernible heat and setting off a major power failure that required some joint troubleshooting by the computer whiz (Sharon) and the engineer (Bob) to get le diner back on track.

More soon...we're about ready to leave on our next road trip.

Oh, which will involve a visit to the Apothecaire as guess who arrived here with a sinus infection? I can barely smell the wine.

Jenise

Color me green with envy!

Add me to the envy that Jon feels . 5 years ago, on our way to Seguret, we stopped at a bank in Sablet to withdraw some cash. Aaah..memories..We want excrciating details Jenise, so that we may live vicariously.

[David M. Bueker]

Get well soon Jenise!

Jenice,
While you're down and under the weather, blog, blog, blog! Are there a few pictures you can throw in now and again. My last trip to Provence was 2004 -- I simply must get back soon. I am so envious, I can hardly retain my natural color. Holding my breath until you write more.

[Robin Garr]

My last trip to Provence was 2004 -- I simply must get back soon.

I think my last visit, the Bucko Tour, was in 2005, and I'm overdue also. Living vicariously through Jenise and wishing we had installed the Taste And Smell widget in the forum software.

[Jenise]

Add me to the envy that Jon feels . 5 years ago, on our way to Seguret, we stopped at a bank in Sablet to withdraw some cash. Aaah..memories..We want excrciating details Jenise, so that we may live vicariously.

Seguret! That's like the next hill over: our home faces north and west and Seguret is just opposite us, but we haven't been to it yet.

[Jenise]

Jenice,
While you're down and under the weather, blog, blog, blog! Are there a few pictures you can throw in now and again. My last trip to Provence was 2004 -- I simply must get back soon. I am so envious, I can hardly retain my natural color. Holding my breath until you write more.

I'm taking hundreds of pics, but I did not bring the software (this is hubby's laptop) or cable that would enable me to upload pics. Might have to wait until I get back to US to do that.

Provence is a wonderful place. We were commenting that it's so peaceful, so blessed with things from the ground, so perfect, that the kind of person who lives for confrontation would be annoyed by the sheer lack of annoying things. I don't even think there are flies here.

I know what you mean about the Vaucluse being perfect. Heartily agree. But when the Mistral blows, and gosh can it blow, it's definitely annoying and gets its sharp claws deep into that sense of peace. Glad you're having a lovely vacation! cheers, Bonnie

[Robin Garr]

I know what you mean about the Vaucluse being perfect. Heartily agree. But when the Mistral blows, and gosh can it blow, it's definitely annoying and gets its sharp claws deep into that sense of peace. Glad you're having a lovely vacation! cheers, Bonnie

The mistral can even be annoying in June, when you catch it on the wrong day!

I know Peter Mayle takes a lot of well-deserved bashing, but the Year in Provence books do capture some of the frustrations as well as the joys of the region. And yes, I love Provence too.

I know what you mean about the Vaucluse being perfect. Heartily agree. But when the Mistral blows, and gosh can it blow, it's definitely annoying and gets its sharp claws deep into that sense of peace. Glad you're having a lovely vacation! cheers, Bonnie

The mistral can even be annoying in June, when you catch it on the wrong day!

Indeed, Robin. I spent a marvelous afternoon in Bandol in 2001, eating bouillabaise and drinking Cassis blanc with Slow Food Provence quayside in a howling Mistral in June. The Mistral was a royal PITA but certainly added to the authenticity of the experience.

Mark Lipton

Sounds marvelous, Jenise! We were in that area about a year and a half ago (will you be going to Isle sur la Sorgue, by any chance?) and we loved it.

BTW, apologies in advance for any prejudice you suffer due to a @#%$ American driver in a rented Passat who was there about 16 months ago....

Aaaahhh, yes, the mistrals! But, when you are in a charming Mas with the cypress trees facing the right direction, their uniform sweeping in the breeze and the slight whistle passing through them is like a welcoming bow to your presence. It was all so magical! I can still smell the lavender and huile d'olive. Magic!

We were commenting that it's so peaceful, so blessed with things from the ground, so perfect, that the kind of person who lives for confrontation would be annoyed by the sheer lack of annoying things.

That is a great line, Jenise. Hope your sinus infection goes away quickly and you enjoy the rest of what sounds like an idyllic trip--even sans tongs.

Sounds like a lot of fun, Jenise, and a particularly good choice of location/lodging.

If you find yourself in need of even more sustenance, there is a lovely little winery/hotel-inn/restaurant, scenic as hell and with a startling view of your little town. It's called Domaine la Cabasse. Owner/Hosts are lovely people; food is good; terrace and grounds are beautiful; and as I said, the view back to your village is incomparable.

Another good place, should you need one, close by is the Restaurant les Mesclun. And if you don't go to Les Florets in Gigondas, we'll have to have some serious words.

[Jenise]

Hoke, Les Florets is on our calendar, as is Les Abeilles or something like that. Didn't know about Cabasse, but I've seen it in our travels. Where is it's approximate location? Could have been Cairanne or Gigondas.

Hoke, Les Florets is on our calendar, as is Les Abeilles or something like that. Didn't know about Cabasse, but I've seen it in our travels. Where is it's approximate location? Could have been Cairanne or Gigondas.

Cairanne, Jenise. You will be charmed by the hotel, I assure you. And even if you don't get a chance to eat there, the wine is worth tasting. A Swiss agronomist decided many years ago to put his money where his professional mouth was, and to buy Cabasse. Now his son primarily makes the wine, and does a good job at it. You'll recognize the labels when you see them.

And l'Aimellaude (sp) is a great stop too.

[Jenise]

Hoke, after reading your post this morning I suggested to the group that we go out for lunch at Les Florets. We were lucky that they agreed to accomodate our party of six almost instantly as the restuarant didn't have an empty chair.

Our meal was interesting. We ordered the fixed price menu--no other option on Sundays, actually. Four selected the goat cheese entree while two of us took the duck terrine. A different four and two split occurred on the main courses. Bill and I liked our duck terrines, though we were both critical that two of the four elements on the plate were sweet, and not just a little. VERY. But the goat cheese trio was a complete failure. They each had a large inch-high square of goat cheese tart that was very moist and jiggly--more a thick jello than the quiche everyone expected. It had a scoop of "courgette jam" on top. Sweet. In another cup was a sweet goat cheese pudding, also with zucchini, and the third item was a scoop of goat cheese ice cream. I figured that would be a savory ice cream but it was in fact just as sweet as anything you'd buy from Ben & Jerry. Shockingly rich and fattening, and of course very bad with our dry white Vacqueyras. The mains were more successful in that they weren't freakish, but I have to report that unfortunately no single item impressed. (And don't feel bad about the recco, several others reccommended it just as highly.)

I'll still feel bad though. Just doesn't sound like the Les Florets that I've been to. I guess they have a different chef de cuisine now; things change.

Some of the best meals I've had in the Rhone were at Les Florets. This sure doesn't sound like the place of my memories.

[Jenise]

I'll still feel bad though. Just doesn't sound like the Les Florets that I've been to. I guess they have a different chef de cuisine now; things change.

Some of the best meals I've had in the Rhone were at Les Florets. This sure doesn't sound like the place of my memories.

No, I know your tastes and sophistication, and this is not the food you'd have spoken so well of. Every restaurant can have bad days of course, but these were badly conceived not just badly executed, though that too, which speaks to a serious change since the days you were there.