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Flattening my abs

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Mike Filigenzi

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Flattening my abs

by Mike Filigenzi » Tue Aug 31, 2010 12:30 am

Or, more correctly, flattening my ab. One of my wife's co-workers called yesterday to say that he was on his way back from a diving expedition, had an extra abalone, and that he'd drop it by if we wanted it. We didn't hesitate to say yes, of course, and he pulled up around 5:00 with a nice-sized specimen. Or at least it looked pretty nice to me, being that I'd never seen one up close and personal. Meaning that I had no idea of what to do with the thing. Andrew very nicely loaned me a large metal implement that's used to pry the animal out of its shell, gave me a quick tutorial on cleaning, and then headed home with the rest of his catch.

A couple of glasses of Chinon and several perusals of websites later, I was ready to go. I took the big metal prybar, slid it in under the mollusk, and pried away. Didn't take long to separate the beast from the shell and when it dropped out, the guts (praise the Lord) stayed with the shell. I was then able to trim them directly into a garbage bag and save the shell for my daughter. That left me with a large slimy slippery and surprisingly hard blob of abalone. It was rimmed in goopy black flesh which I was told is edible but not pleasantly so. The surface of the foot was a brownish-orange color, and that surface layer is also not supposed to be something you want to eat. So I commenced to trimming off the black and brown stuff, periodically picking the whole thing up off the floor or out of the sink when it slipped out of my hands and off the cutting board.

After much trimming (and much wasted precious abalone, no doubt), I was ready to slice and pound. I'd read that you could take the whole thing, cover it in a towel, and beat the crap out of it with a two-by-four to soften it up. That sounded like fun, but I decided to reserve that treatment for politicians and I instead cut it into slices of about 1/4" each. These were pounded with a hammer that is supposed to be used for crushing ice. Once flattened, they went into a bath of lime juice and then the fridge.

Today, I took that slices out of the fridge and rinsed them in cold water. They've been cut into pieces around 1/2" square and put in a bowl with chopped tomato, cucumber, bell pepper, onion, jalapeno, etc. It's quite tasty with tortilla chips. The ab has a really nice, clean flavor and it marries well with the rest of the ingredients.

I have to say, though, that this is one of those food items for which you wonder how anyone ever came up with a prep procedure. It's a heck of a lot of work to get a bowl of ceviche. I imagine that I'd get much better at this if I had a consistent supply of abalone, but still! I'm not complaining, though. The ceviche is excellent.
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Jeff Grossman

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Re: Flattening my abs

by Jeff Grossman » Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:51 am

Great story, Mike. I agree with you about wondering.... My guess is that some people were awfully hungry and would try just about anything.
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Re: Flattening my abs

by Jenise » Tue Aug 31, 2010 2:28 pm

Not being critical, but I'm interested in why you chose to make a ceviche vs. a cooked prep, like a schnitzel.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Flattening my abs

by Mike Filigenzi » Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:25 pm

Jenise wrote:Not being critical, but I'm interested in why you chose to make a ceviche vs. a cooked prep, like a schnitzel.


The only other time I cooked abalone, I did the simple bread-and-panfry technique. That was tasty but I wanted to try something different and the ceviche sounded like a nice, summery prep. As it turned out, the marinated abalone was really good all by itself. The ceviche needed to be somewhat subdued in order to keep its flavor apparent.
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Re: Flattening my abs

by Ines Nyby » Tue Aug 31, 2010 8:15 pm

Not all that many years ago, it was legal to catch abalone here in Southern California, and we had a few secret spots at Catalina Island where we could free dive and find abs any time we wanted some. But poachers and scofflaws who took too many undersize abs out of season wrecked it for all of us and it's been illegal for about 10 years or more to take any abs. We always did the slice and tenderize routine, then let them rest in milk or buttermilk, then dipped them in panko for a quick saute. Drizzled with a little lemon or lime juice, it was a decadent and delicious meal. We used to have enough abalone in the freezer to serve a dozen people at a time! I miss it--it's prohibitively expensive now.
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Re: Flattening my abs

by Jenise » Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:05 am

Has it only been ten years, Ines? I would have thought more like 20, but never having the means of catching my own I've forgotten. I just know that when I was a kid, a high-end "continental" restaurant we frequented served an abalone dish I loved--too large filets folded in half, stuffed with crab meat, dipped in an egg batter and pan-fried in butter--and then it was gone. These days, the only abalone you can legally buy is farm raised and since they're so slow growing the product is very small (3", say) and the price is monumental. Did you get any abalone in the South Seas?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Flattening my abs

by ChefJCarey » Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:18 am

I think the scarcity began in the 70s. When I was chef at Scott's in the late 70s we had it on the regular menu. The price kept going up and up. I had it on the regular menu when I moved to Sausalito, too. After '78 we ran it as a special on occasion. Then the cost became prohibitive. By the mid 80s the black abalone was gone.
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Mike Filigenzi

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Re: Flattening my abs

by Mike Filigenzi » Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:21 am

[quote="Jenise"I just know that when I was a kid, a high-end "continental" restaurant we frequented served an abalone dish I loved--too large filets folded in half, stuffed with crab meat, dipped in an egg batter and pan-fried in butter--and then it was gone.[/quote]

That would cost, what, about $800 nowadays?
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Re: Flattening my abs

by Ines Nyby » Wed Sep 01, 2010 1:14 pm

Jenise wrote:Has it only been ten years, Ines? I would have thought more like 20, Did you get any abalone in the South Seas?


I looked into the time frame and it was about 15 years ago that the restrictions took place. But in Mendocino and Sonoma counties now, the ban on diving for abalone has been provisionally lifted for a short period of time as the populations of abs have grown in size and quantity. So I suppose there's hope for So. Cal. as well. There is no abalone in the South Seas; they require cold water to flourish.
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Mike Filigenzi

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Re: Flattening my abs

by Mike Filigenzi » Wed Sep 01, 2010 5:49 pm

Ines Nyby wrote:
Jenise wrote:Has it only been ten years, Ines? I would have thought more like 20, Did you get any abalone in the South Seas?


I looked into the time frame and it was about 15 years ago that the restrictions took place. But in Mendocino and Sonoma counties now, the ban on diving for abalone has been provisionally lifted for a short period of time as the populations of abs have grown in size and quantity. So I suppose there's hope for So. Cal. as well. There is no abalone in the South Seas; they require cold water to flourish.


I know a number of people who dive for abalone up around Mendocino. That's where the one in my post came from.
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Re: Flattening my abs

by Jenise » Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:06 pm

Mike Filigenzi wrote:[quote="Jenise"I just know that when I was a kid, a high-end "continental" restaurant we frequented served an abalone dish I loved--too large filets folded in half, stuffed with crab meat, dipped in an egg batter and pan-fried in butter--and then it was gone.


That would cost, what, about $800 nowadays?[/quote]

Sure, but back then it wasn't a big deal. Now mind you, I was just a kid, but I was always given the menu to order from and best I recall, the abalone was about on par with my other favorite thing at the Dal Rae, the prime rib. It was the lobster dishes (Broiled with filet, thermidor, newburg were all on the menu) that were the most expensive.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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