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Carbonara

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Mike Filigenzi

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Carbonara

by Mike Filigenzi » Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:07 am

A couple of days ago, my pal Nilo dropped off some cured pork belly his mom had made. This is something she must have learned growing up in Tuscany. It's a slab of belly that's heavily coated in pepper, salt, pepper, sugar, pepper, more spices, and pepper. I don't know how long it gets cured but it comes out a bit like a spicy pancetta. It's great just to slice thin and eat raw but tonight I thought I'd try it in carbonara as I'd seen this in a recent Saveur magazine. Going with their version, I sliced the pork thin, and then cut the slices up. Put it in a hot pan and sauteed for a few minutes. Turned that into a bowl and added three egg yolks and one whole egg. That all got mixed up and a bunch of Microplaned Reggiano was added. The bucatini was done a minute or two after that, so it was thrown in along with a bit of its cooking water. The whole mess was well mixed and served. It was just fantastic. Like a really good cocktail, the four ingredients came together to make something balanced, complex, and wholly satisfying. I've done this before with guanciale and it's excellent, but the spicing in the pork added another dimension. My daughter had a friend over for supper and both of them raved about it, leaving plates that were far cleaner than usual.

Now I just need to get the recipe for this pork belly from Nilo's mom....
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Jeff Grossman

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Re: Carbonara

by Jeff Grossman » Thu Mar 25, 2010 2:17 am

Wow. Sounds amazing. (My favorite carbonara recipe resembles yours but it also adds a bit of chopped parsley.)
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Barb Downunder

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Re: Carbonara

by Barb Downunder » Thu Mar 25, 2010 6:04 am

Sounds lovely, but,but...surely lots of pepper?
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Re: Carbonara

by Mike Filigenzi » Thu Mar 25, 2010 8:39 am

Barb -

The pork belly is definitely peppery but it didn't come off as too strong in the pasta. A lot of the pepper falls off when it's handled.
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Re: Carbonara

by GeoCWeyer » Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:56 am

I served a version of Carbonara in my restaurant in the early 80's. It was/is one of my favorite comfort foods and I wanted to share the dish with my customers. I used lean bacon,whole egg and egg yolk, good cheese, and pepper. My recipe also had the addition of chopped scallion and parsley. People loved it. The most common comment was that it was so different than Pasta Alfredo.

At that time the only other local place that I ran across it was at an Italian Restaurant named Vitali's that had been around I believe, since the 50's. They added cream to their rendition. I asked Mama Vitali about it and she said, "I know, but people don't undertand, everyone wants their pasta to taste like Pasta Alfredo even though it isn't."

When things aren't wonderful there is nothing better than Carbonara or old fashioned braised pot roast or short ribs. True comfort foods.
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Re: Carbonara

by Jenise » Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:25 am

Oh man...Greg Higgins from his eponymously-named resto in Portland, which Hoke and Chef might be familiar with, and who is a cured pork fanatic and does great house-cured stuff, was up here yesterday and I got invited to this deal where he and a group of about 12 would spend the afternoon breaking down a pig and making all this cool stuff. You were expected to stay for dinner, drink lots of wine, and take the last ferry home. I couldn't go. BOO HOO!!!!
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Ted Richards

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Re: Carbonara

by Ted Richards » Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:29 pm

I've found that pancetta is much preferable to bacon in Carbonara, especially with coarsely ground pepper in it, so I imagine it would end up a lot like yours. Sounds dreamy, though.
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Re: Carbonara

by ChefJCarey » Thu Mar 25, 2010 2:48 pm

One of our favorite dishes. I make it a couple of times per month, probably with a very similar result as I always have some naturally cured, peppered bacon lying around.
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Mike Filigenzi

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Re: Carbonara

by Mike Filigenzi » Thu Mar 25, 2010 3:50 pm

Jenise wrote:Oh man...Greg Higgins from his eponymously-named resto in Portland, which Hoke and Chef might be familiar with, and who is a cured pork fanatic and does great house-cured stuff, was up here yesterday and I got invited to this deal where he and a group of about 12 would spend the afternoon breaking down a pig and making all this cool stuff. You were expected to stay for dinner, drink lots of wine, and take the last ferry home. I couldn't go. BOO HOO!!!!


Ouch! That's a tough one to miss out on.
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Barb Downunder

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Re: Carbonara

by Barb Downunder » Thu Mar 25, 2010 4:52 pm

Mike Filigenzi wrote:Barb -

The pork belly is definitely peppery but it didn't come off as too strong in the pasta. A lot of the pepper falls off when it's handled.



sorry Mike what I really meant to say Shouldn't carbonara contain lots of pepper as a key component of the dish, along with the eggs and cured pork.
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Jeff Grossman

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Re: Carbonara

by Jeff Grossman » Thu Mar 25, 2010 9:31 pm

GeoCWeyer wrote:They added cream to their rendition. I asked Mama Vitali about it and she said, "I know, but people don't undertand, everyone wants their pasta to taste like Pasta Alfredo even though it isn't."

I am always disappointed by restaurants that put cream in carbonara. It completely changes the dish... it is then neither carbonara nor Alfredo.
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Jenise

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Re: Carbonara

by Jenise » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:34 am

Jeff Grossman/NYC wrote:
GeoCWeyer wrote:They added cream to their rendition. I asked Mama Vitali about it and she said, "I know, but people don't undertand, everyone wants their pasta to taste like Pasta Alfredo even though it isn't."

I am always disappointed by restaurants that put cream in carbonara. It completely changes the dish... it is then neither carbonara nor Alfredo.


In California, most Italian restaurants do carbonara as cream, proscuitto and peas. It's not the egg dish at all.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Mike Filigenzi

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Re: Carbonara

by Mike Filigenzi » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:59 am

Jenise wrote:
Jeff Grossman/NYC wrote:
GeoCWeyer wrote:They added cream to their rendition. I asked Mama Vitali about it and she said, "I know, but people don't undertand, everyone wants their pasta to taste like Pasta Alfredo even though it isn't."

I am always disappointed by restaurants that put cream in carbonara. It completely changes the dish... it is then neither carbonara nor Alfredo.


In California, most Italian restaurants do carbonara as cream, proscuitto and peas. It's not the egg dish at all.


Gaah! Really? I've never ordered it in a restaurant here (and now I probably never will).
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Jenise

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Re: Carbonara

by Jenise » Fri Mar 26, 2010 12:42 pm

Mike Filigenzi wrote:
Gaah! Really? I've never ordered it in a restaurant here (and now I probably never will).


Seriously, and pervasively so. It seems to be the official California-immigrant-Italian version--I've had it many times in many restuarants, and it was always the same. Very good, just not the real deal.
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Susan B

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Re: Carbonara

by Susan B » Fri Apr 02, 2010 12:55 pm

Jeff Grossman/NYC wrote:
GeoCWeyer wrote:They added cream to their rendition. I asked Mama Vitali about it and she said, "I know, but people don't undertand, everyone wants their pasta to taste like Pasta Alfredo even though it isn't."

I am always disappointed by restaurants that put cream in carbonara. It completely changes the dish... it is then neither carbonara nor Alfredo.


I must agree with Jeff, it is always a disappointment to have cream added. In fact, I usually ask the server in advance and have been told on a couple of occasions by the purportedly Italian chef that carbonara always has cream in it. I usually find something else to order when I am so informed. It has become pervasive though, once in Rome when I ordered carbonara, the server warned me that it did not contain cream. When I asserted that cream didn't belong in carbonara, I was rewarded with new appreciation and was remembered on each return visit.

I also agree with Jenise, the dish with cream, proscuitto and peas is good, (sometimes served with two colors of pasta and called "hay and straw"), but it is not carbonara.

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