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An observation about chocolates

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Matilda L

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An observation about chocolates

by Matilda L » Sat Jan 02, 2010 5:40 am

Over the last several days, my partner and I have been eating chocolates out of a box of assorted centres we brought home from Bariloche, in Argentina. Bariloche, we were assured, was the Chocolate Capital of Argentina. One of our young friends reminded us several times of this fact before we left, and we made sure we bought a big box to give her.

The interesting thing about these chocolates is, the flavours are nearly unrecognisable. I don't mean there is anything wrong with them. They are lovely quality, the chocolate soft and silky, the centres varied in texture. But we just don't recognise what we are tasting at all! Yesterday, I had one that I thought at first was dried apricot, then it was more like caramel, then it was figs and rum ... then ... who knows??? Which has brought me to the conclusion that flavour is something we learn, and maybe our taste buds are more conventional than we might like to think. It's like that odd sensation when you expect one flavour and get another. Except, with these chocolates, there isn't even an expectation to work from. It's the darndest thing.
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Carrie L.

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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Carrie L. » Sat Jan 02, 2010 11:41 am

Matilda, your post reminds me of Jelly Belly (jelly beans). Do you have them over there?
At least you have color to base your guesses on, but I still find myself struggling. "Hmmm, is it pear or green apple?" or "Toasted marshmallow or buttered popcorn." Thankfully, like deciphering the chocolates, it's a tasty exercise!
Hello. My name is Carrie, and I...I....still like oaked Chardonnay. (Please don't judge.)
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Rahsaan

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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Rahsaan » Sat Jan 02, 2010 12:51 pm

Matilda L wrote:The interesting thing about these chocolates is, the flavours are nearly unrecognisable. I don't mean there is anything wrong with them. They are lovely quality, the chocolate soft and silky, the centres varied in texture. But we just don't recognise what we are tasting at all!


Something doesn't sound right here. If the flavors are unrecognizable then surely there is something wrong with them! Even if they are not the worst chocolates. Because I have never had any problems distinguishing flavors in the best chocolates. But I agree that even mid-range chocolate can be very disappointing. For that reason I would much rather have a mid-range chocolate bar than mid-range filled chocolates. Because at least you get a dose of cocoa goodness that way without anything else to spoil it.
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Daniel Rogov

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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Daniel Rogov » Sat Jan 02, 2010 1:04 pm

I wonder if chocolate might have something in common with oak. That is to say, if the oak in a wine makes itself too prominently felt the fruits and other flavors of the wine can be lost. Same with chocolate, if the chocolate itself is too dominant might it not mask or distort other flavors in the filling or blend?

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Rahsaan

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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Rahsaan » Sat Jan 02, 2010 1:08 pm

Daniel Rogov wrote:I wonder if chocolate might have something in common with oak. That is to say, if the oak in a wine makes itself too prominently felt the fruits and other flavors of the wine can be lost. Same with chocolate, if the chocolate itself is too dominant might it not mask or distort other flavors in the filling or blend?


Of course. But it's not the chocolate's fault (or the oak's fault). By definition if something is too dominant it is masking/distorting something else. The issue is whether the chocolatier/winemaker is a sufficient master of his/her craft to avoid that problem!
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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Hoke » Sat Jan 02, 2010 1:08 pm

Matilda, that is an interesting observation, especially in light of two things. First the globalization that allows us to easily experience travel to what used to be exotic locations, and second, the increasing use of what most people are trained to think of as "non-traditional", or at least unexpected, flavors in chocolate.

I'm quite sure that in the case of the first, different traditions create different "usual" flavors or textures in chocolate, so that what is standard in Argentina may be unusual in Australia or America, for instance.

There is an interesting outfit in the San Francisco Bay area where the owner is focusing on the combination of precise sourcing and selection process to "naturally" create flavor-focused chocolates, so that each chocolate he makes is in a particular flavor-zone. Again, this is not with any flavoring component, simply through sourcing and selection and process. His chocos are all flavor-coded (and with colored wrappers to distinguish them)---and they are clearly different. One is very citrusy, one is floral, one is fruity, one is nutty, and one is extremely earthy. He uses a variation on the Ann Noble Sensory Aroma Wheel to explain what he's doing. It's fascinating to taste the differences.

On the other point, there are outfits---one of my favorite is Vosges Chocolates out of Chicago----that are putting out intriguing chocolates with different added-flavor ingredients. Some of these chocos, quite frankly, don't work for me; but some of them are outrageously tasty and provocative. Vosges even has different 'national' or 'cultural' taste-themed choco selections----such as chocos with olive oil and salt and "Italian" herbs and spices; and a series of hot pepper laced chocos of various styles and types of levels of heat. Unfortunately, the Vosges chocos are not cheap, so experimentation can be tres expensive.

Chocolate has definitely gone beyond the set number of traditional flavor compounds though, and this in itself poses challenges. And if you don't know what the exotic flavor is---if the choco map and cheat sheet isn't available---sometimes you simply don't know what it is you are tasting!

One thing I have learned though: I do love the various and sundry choco-hot pepper combinations, especially the smoky chipotle ones, where it's more about flavor than burn.
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Jeff Grossman

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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Jeff Grossman » Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:08 pm

Matilda L wrote:It's the darndest thing.

I've been told that it is often hard to distinguish red wine from white wine if you serve both in black glasses.
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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Paul Winalski » Sat Jan 02, 2010 10:43 pm

Carrie L. wrote:Matilda, your post reminds me of Jelly Belly (jelly beans). Do you have them over there?
At least you have color to base your guesses on, but I still find myself struggling. "Hmmm, is it pear or green apple?" or "Toasted marshmallow or buttered popcorn." Thankfully, like deciphering the chocolates, it's a tasty exercise!


For a few years at the peak of the Harry Potter craze Jelly Belly was making under license Bertie Bott's Every-Flavour Beans. These included all of the regular Jelly Belly flavors, plus some of the grosser flavors mentioned in the Harry Potter books.

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Re: An observation about chocolates

by april yap » Sun Jan 03, 2010 3:46 am

i agree with the general point about how are palates are conditioned in certain ways. i'm pretty sure the chocolates you tasted were good, just unfamiliar.

i'm reminded of this top chef episode in season 1 i think where they were made to taste ingredients blind and some flavors like durian or tamarind they had trouble with whereas we, here in asia, would pick it up in a second and probably have more trouble with flavors like cassis or blackberry.

and i do think this is one of the things that make the global age so interesting. even cuisines and tastes are now opening up such that it is now relatively easy to get terrine of foie in the philippines or philippine lumpia in the states (i'm actually reading a novel in which a jewish community in alaska has a shop that serves lumpia!)

as they say, vive le'difference! the diversity of the world in everything makes it a truly marvelous place
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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Daniel Rogov » Sun Jan 03, 2010 5:42 am

Jeff Grossman/NYC wrote:I've been told that it is often hard to distinguish red wine from white wine if you serve both in black glasses.



Jeff, Hi....

That idea became popular several years ago when a "research" paper stated that tasters could not make the distinction between reds and whites when served in black glasses. Alas, even though that "research" was seriously faulted (based on non-experienced wine drinkers in uncontrolled conditions), the concept gained great populalrity in popular thought.

That might be true with very light reds or whites (e.g. nouveau Beaujolais, vino verde, etc) but experienced tasters do not suffer from the same problem. The man/woman who cannot tell that a Bordeaux blend is red and a California Chardonnay is white is either anosal or brain dead.

If the person having done that research had been an undergraduate student of mine, I would have sent him/her back to the drawing board.

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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Jeff Grossman » Sun Jan 03, 2010 3:08 pm

"Not since lunch." -- Waugh.
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Re: An observation about chocolates

by Frank Deis » Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:03 pm

I love Thomas Pynchon and when I read "Gravity's Rainbow" this had me ROTFL. It's long, be patient, read through...

Mrs. Quoad's is up three dark flights, with the dome of faraway St. Paul's out its kitchen window visible in the smoke of certain afternoons, and the lady herself tiny in a rose plush chair in the sitting-room by the wireless, listening to Primo Scala's Accordion Band. She looks healthy enough. On the table, though, is her crumpled chiffon handkerchief: feathered blots of blood in and out the convolutions like a Horal pattern.

"You were here when I had that horrid quotidian ague," she recalls Slothrop, "the day we brewed the wormwood tea," sure enough, the very taste now, rising through his shoe-soles, taking him along. They're reassembling... it must be outside his memory... cool clean interior, girl and woman, independent of his shorthand of stars... so many fading-faced girls, windy canalsides, bed-sitters, bus-stop good-bys, how can he be expected to remember? but this room has gone on clarifying: part of whoever he was inside it has kindly remained, stored quiescent these months outside of his head, distributed through the grainy shadows, the grease-hazy jars of herbs, candies, spices, all the Compton Mackenzie novels on the shelf, glassy ambrotypes of her late husband Austin night-dusted inside gilded frames up on the mantel where last tune Michaelmas daisies greeted and razzled from a little Sevres vase she and Austin found together one Saturday long ago in a Wardour Street shop...

"He was my good health," she often says. "Since he passed away I've had to become all but an outright witch, in pure self-defense." From the kitchen comes the smell of limes freshly cut and squeezed. Darlene's in and out of the room, looking for different botanicals, asking where the cheesecloth's got to, "Tyrone help me just reach down that---no next to it, the tall jar, thank you love"---back into the kitchen in a creak of starch, a flash of pink. "I'm the only one with a memory around here," Mrs. Quoad sighs. "We help each other, you see." She brings out from behind its cretonne camouflage a great bowl of candies. "Now," beaming at Slothrop. "Here: wine jellies. They're prewar."

"Now I remember you---the one with the graft at the Ministry of Supply!" but he knows, from last time, that no gallantry can help him now. After that visit he wrote home to Nalline: "The English are kind of weird when it comes to the way things taste, Mom. They aren't like us. It might be the climate. They go for things we would never dream of. Sometimes it is enough to turn your stomach, boy. The other day I had had one of these things they call 'wine jellies.' That's their idea of candy, Mom! Figure out a way to feed some to that Hitler 'n' I betcha the war'd be over tomorrow!" Now once again he finds himself checking out these ruddy gelatin objects, nodding, he hopes amiably, at Mrs. Quoad. They have the names of different wines written on them in bas-relief.

"Just a touch of menthol too," Mrs. Quoad popping one into her mouth. "Delicious."

Slothrop finally chooses one that says Lafitte Rothschild and stuffs it on into his kisser. "Oh yeah. Yeah. Mmm. It's great."

"If you really want something peculiar try the Bernkastler Doktor. Oh! Aren't you the one who brought me those lovely American slimy elm things, maple-tasting with a touch of sassafras---"

"Slippery elm. Jeepers I'm sorry, I ran out yesterday."

Darlene comes in with a steaming pot and three cups on a tray. "What's that?" Slothrop a little quickly, here.

"You don't really want to know, Tyrone."

"Quite right," after the first sip, wishing she'd used more lime juice or something to kill the basic taste, which is ghastly-bitter. These people are really insane. No sugar, natch. He reaches in the candy bowl, comes up with a black, ribbed licorice drop. It looks safe. But just as he's biting in, Darlene gives him, and it, a peculiar look, great timing this girl, sez, "Oh, I thought we got rid of all those---" a blithe, Gilbert & Sullivan ingenue's thewse---"years ago," at which point Slothrop is encountering this dribbling liquid center, which tastes like mayonnaise and orange peels.

"You've taken the last of my Marmalade Surprises!" cries Mrs. Quoad, having now with conjuror's speed produced an egg-shaped confection of pastel green, studded all over with lavender nonpareils. "Just for that I shan't let you have any of these marvelous rhubarb creams." Into her mouth it goes, the whole thing.

"Serves me right," Slothrop, wondering just what he means by this, sipping herb tea to remove the taste of the mayonnaise candy---oops but that's a mistake, right, here's his mouth filling once again with horrible alkaloid desolation, all the way back to the soft palate where it digs in. Darlene, pure Nightingale compassion, is handing him a hard red candy, molded like a stylized raspberry... mm, which oddly enough even tastes like a raspberry, though it can't begin to take away that bitterness. Impatiently, he bites into it, and in the act knows, fucking idiot, he's been had once more, there comes pouring out onto his tongue the most godawful crystalline concentration of Jeez it must be pure nitric acid, "Oh mercy that's really sour," hardly able to get the words out he's so puckered up, exactly the sort of thing Hop Harrigan used to pull to get Tank Tinker to quit playing his ocarina, a shabby trick then and twice as reprehensible coming from an old lady who's supposed to be one of our Allies, shit he can't even see it's up his nose and whatever it is won't dissolve, just goes on torturing his shriveling tongue and crunches like ground glass among his molars. Mrs. Quoad is meantime busy savoring, bite by dainty bite, a cherry-quinine petit four. She beams at the young people across the candy bowl. Slothrop, forgetting, reaches again for his tea. There is no graceful way out of this now. Darlene has brought a couple-three more candy jars down off of the shelf, and now he goes plunging, like a journey to the center of some small, hostile planet, into an enormous bonbon chomp through the mantle of chocolate to a strongly eucalyptus-flavored fondant, finally into a core of some very tough grape gum arabic. He fingernails a piece of this out from between his teeth and stares at it for a while. It is purple in color.

"Now you're getting the idea!" Mrs. Quoad waving at him a marbled conglomerate of ginger root, butterscotch, and aniseed, "you see, you also have to enjoy the way it looks. Why are Americans so impulsive?"

"Well," mumbling, "usually we don't get any more complicated than Hershey bars, see...."

"Oh, try this," hollers Darlene, clutching her throat and swaying against him.

"Gosh, it must really be something," doubtfully taking this nastylooking brownish novelty, an exact quarter-scale replica of a Mills-type hand grenade, lever, pin and everything, one of a series of patriotic candies put out before sugar was quite so scarce, also including, he notices, peering into the jar, a .455 Webley cartridge of green and pink striped taffy, a six-ton earthquake bomb of some silver-flecked blue gelatin, and a licorice bazooka.

"Go on then," Darlene actually taking his hand with the candy in it and trying to shove it into his mouth.

"Was just, you know, looking at it, the way Mrs. Quoad suggested."

"And no fair squeezing it, Tyrone."

Under its tamarind glaze, the Mills bomb turns out to be luscious pepsin-flavored nougat, chock-full of tangy candied cubeb berries, and a chewy camphor-gum center. It is unspeakably awful. Slothrop's head begins to reel with camphor fumes, his eyes are running, his tongue's a hopeless holocaust. Cubeb? He used to smoke that stuff. "Poisoned..." he is able to croak.

"Show a little backbone," advises Mrs. Quoad.

"Yes," Darlene through tongue-softened sheets of caramel, "don't you know there's a war on? Here now love, open your mouth."

Through the tears he can't see it too well, but he can hear Mrs. Quoad across the table going "Yum, yum, yum," and Darlene giggling. It is enormous and soft, like a marshmallow, but somehow---unless something is now going seriously wrong with his brain---it tastes like: gin. "Wha's 'is," he inquires thickly.

"A gin marshmallow," sez Mrs. Quoad.

"Awww..."

"Oh that's nothing, have one of these---" his teeth, in some perverse reflex, crunching now through a hard sour gooseberry shell into a wet spurting unpleasantness of, he hopes it's tapioca, little glutinous chunks of something all saturated with powdered cloves.

"More tea?" Darlene suggests. Slothrop is coughing violently, having inhaled some of that clove filling.

"Nasty cough," Mrs. Quoad offering a tin of that least believable of English coughdrops, the Meggezone. "Darlene, the tea is lovely, I can feel my scurvy going away, really I can."

The Meggezone is like being belted in the head with a Swiss Alp. Menthol icicles immediately begin to grow from the roof of Slothrop's mouth. Polar bears seek toenail-holds up the freezing frosty-grape alveolar clusters in his lungs. It hurts his teeth too much to breathe, even through his nose, even, necktie loosened, with his nose down inside the neck of his olive-drab T-shirt. Benzoin vapors seep into his brain. His head floats in a halo of ice.

Even an hour later, the Meggezone still lingers, a mint ghost in the air. Slothrop lies with Darlene, the Disgusting English Candy Drill a thing of the past, his groin now against her warm bottom. The one candy he did not get to taste---one Mrs. Quoad withheld---was the Fire of Paradise, that famous confection of high price and protean taste---"salted plum" to one, "artificial cherry" to another... "sugared violets"... "Worcestershire sauce"... "spiced treacle"... any number of like descriptions, positive, terse---never exceeding two words in length---resembling the descriptions of poison and debilitating gases found in training manuals, "sweet-and-sour eggplant" being perhaps the lengthiest to date. [ . . . ]


--- Gravity's Rainbow, Thomas Pynchon, pp. 114-119.

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