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Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

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Bob Ross

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Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

by Bob Ross » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:14 am

Kimball published a short history of food magazines and an attack on the myriad food blogs in "The New York Times" recently.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/08/opini ... .html?_r=1

Extract:

To survive, those of us who believe that inexperience rarely leads to wisdom need to swim against the tide, better define our brands, prove our worth, ask to be paid for what we do, and refuse to climb aboard this ship of fools, the one where everyone has an equal voice. Google “broccoli casserole” and make the first recipe you find. I guarantee it will be disappointing. The world needs fewer opinions and more thoughtful expertise — the kind that comes from real experience, the hard-won blood-on-the-floor kind. I like my reporters, my pilots, my pundits, my doctors, my teachers and my cooking instructors to have graduated from the school of hard knocks.

Excellent reading whatever you think about his basic point. But the first hit on Google this morning for "broccoli casserole" isn't too bad:

BROCCOLI & CHEESE CASSEROLE
Printed from COOKS.COM

1/2 lb. cold sliced chicken
1 lb. broccoli crowns
3 tbsp. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
2 tbsp. unsalted butter plus 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves finely minced garlic
1/2 cup Italian seasoned bread crumbs or crushed Ritz crackers
1/2 tsp. paprika
3 tbsp. fresh parsley, minced

Preheat oven to 350°F.
Steam or briefly boil broccoli until for about 5 minutes (depends on maturity of the broccoli), or until almost, but not quite tender. Plunge into cold water to stop the cooking. The broccoli should be a bright green in color and should retain a crisp crunch.

In a 2 1/2 quart casserole, melt butter and olive oil in microwave with minced garlic until butter has melted and garlic is sizzling. Toss bread crumbs with the melted butter mixture, to coat; stir in parsley.

Scoop most of the bread crumb mixture onto a sheet of wax paper, and set aside (some bread crumbs may remain in casserole to make a base for the chicken).

Arrange chicken slices in a layer along the bottom of the casserole and top with the steamed broccoli. Cover with sauce (below). Sprinkle with the buttered breadcrumbs or crushed Ritz crackers. Top with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Sprinkle with paprika for extra color and a piquant flavor.

Brown on the top third shelf in a 350°F. oven for about 15 minutes or until nicely golden.

Variation: Cooked elbow macaroni and sliced mushrooms may be added before being topped with the sauce.

Sauce:

1 cup milk or cream
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. flour
1/2 cup Gruyere or sharp Cheddar cheese
1/2 tsp. Coleman's Mustard

In a microwavable bowl, melt butter; whisk in flour and when blended, slowly stir in milk. Heat for 3-5 minutes, stirring occasionally until mixture thickens. Beat a few tablespoons of the hot liquid into 1 egg yolk; then transfer the egg yolk back into the sauce, whisking quickly. Add 1/2 cup Gruyere or sharp Cheddar cheese and 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard. Microwave another 1 or 2 minutes or until cheese has melted.
To save on clean-up and extra preparation steps, (an important consideration in the Cooks.com Test Kitchen!) this sauce is easiest to prepare in a microwave, but may also be made in a double boiler, as is done traditionally.


Haven't made it myself, but there are two positive reviews from folks who have, and the hit offers several recipes that look interesting.

If you search on "broccoli casserole recipe", you get About.com Southern Foods at:

http://southernfood.about.com/od/brocco ... ecipes.htm

That broccoli pudding really sounds good.

I wonder if Kimball shouldn't have done a bit of site checking before supporting his attack with "broccoli casserole"?
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Re: Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

by Daniel Rogov » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:28 am

About professionalism and amateurism, some good points in the article.

As to the recipe... Not to get me wrong - I adore broccoli, parmesan cheese, butter, garlic, bread crumbs, Coleman's mustard, cream, milk and each of the other ingredients* but put those together as directed and I wonder if you don't have something that might have been more appropriate for the table of 1955 than of 2010. Edible, I'm sure. Whether I would want to eat or not is a vastly different story.

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*Heck, I even like Ritz crackers, especially when simply munched from the box.
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Re: Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

by Jenise » Wed Oct 14, 2009 12:52 pm

Daniel Rogov wrote:About professionalism and amateurism, some good points in the article.

As to the recipe... Not to get me wrong - I adore broccoli, parmesan cheese, butter, garlic, bread crumbs, Coleman's mustard, cream, milk and each of the other ingredients* but put those together as directed and I wonder if you don't have something that might have been more appropriate for the table of 1955 than of 2010. Edible, I'm sure. Whether I would want to eat or not is a vastly different story.

Best
Rogov

*Heck, I even like Ritz crackers, especially when simply munched from the box.


I have to agree, Daniel. By another name, it's essentially the famous 50's dish Chicken Divan that I'm fairly certain Campbell's co-opted for use with their Cream of Chicken soup. And though this goes it possibly one better by prescribing a homemade white sauce, and would probably taste fine, the layering of chicken under the broccoli, the use of pre-seasoned store-bought bread crumbs and the sprinkle of paprika on top outs it as exactly the kind of recipe Chris Kimball was pointing a finger at.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

by Dave R » Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:52 pm

Jenise wrote:By another name, it's essentially the famous 50's dish Chicken Divan that I'm fairly certain Campbell's co-opted for use with their Cream of Chicken soup.


That's what I was thinking. It reminded me of being a kid and eating my Aunt's appalling version.

Whether Kimball intended to be taken literally or not about the first broccoli casserole recipe to pop up on a Google search, he is right either way.
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Re: Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

by Ian Sutton » Wed Oct 14, 2009 6:10 pm

As ever, it's a dangerous generalisation.

There are some truly awful websites/blogs out there, not short of opinion, but certainly short of ability. Yet there are also some amateurs for whom a particular area of interest has been a lifelong pursuit. The best of these might put to shame the best generalist critic as through specialisation they have makes them more experienced in that field than the general 'authority'.

Another factor should always be there in the back of our minds - who is paying for this? For amateurs, sometimes it's just a labour of love and their hobby, which they're more than happy to self-fund. Sometimes funding comes via links/adverts and very occasionally subscriptions, though there appears to be great resistance to pay for anything but the most useful/recognised. Over time (but I'm sure it's already out there), we'll see sites that appear independant, yet there is mystery funding with a strong influence on what gets written.

Magazines/Newspapers already suffer this problem, with editorial influence in some case keeping an intolerably tight control on what wines can or can't be reviewed - not on quality, but on whether they are 'easily available' - i.e. in major supermarkets/chains. Ditto re: the price of wines that can be recommended (and this seems endemic amongst TV progs and newspapers in the UK).

Who to trust? Take the time to assess each to see how reliable it is ...and don't blindly trust the 1st thing you read on the internet 8)

regards

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Re: Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

by ChefJCarey » Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:27 am

Bob Ross wrote:Kimball published a short history of food magazines and an attack on the myriad food blogs in "The New York Times" recently.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/08/opini ... .html?_r=1

Extract:

To survive, those of us who believe that inexperience rarely leads to wisdom need to swim against the tide, better define our brands, prove our worth, ask to be paid for what we do, and refuse to climb aboard this ship of fools, the one where everyone has an equal voice. Google “broccoli casserole” and make the first recipe you find. I guarantee it will be disappointing. The world needs fewer opinions and more thoughtful expertise — the kind that comes from real experience, the hard-won blood-on-the-floor kind. I like my reporters, my pilots, my pundits, my doctors, my teachers and my cooking instructors to have graduated from the school of hard knocks.

Excellent reading whatever you think about his basic point. But the first hit on Google this morning for "broccoli casserole" isn't too bad:

BROCCOLI & CHEESE CASSEROLE
Printed from COOKS.COM

1/2 lb. cold sliced chicken
1 lb. broccoli crowns
3 tbsp. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
2 tbsp. unsalted butter plus 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves finely minced garlic
1/2 cup Italian seasoned bread crumbs or crushed Ritz crackers
1/2 tsp. paprika
3 tbsp. fresh parsley, minced

Preheat oven to 350°F.
Steam or briefly boil broccoli until for about 5 minutes (depends on maturity of the broccoli), or until almost, but not quite tender. Plunge into cold water to stop the cooking. The broccoli should be a bright green in color and should retain a crisp crunch.

In a 2 1/2 quart casserole, melt butter and olive oil in microwave with minced garlic until butter has melted and garlic is sizzling. Toss bread crumbs with the melted butter mixture, to coat; stir in parsley.

Scoop most of the bread crumb mixture onto a sheet of wax paper, and set aside (some bread crumbs may remain in casserole to make a base for the chicken).

Arrange chicken slices in a layer along the bottom of the casserole and top with the steamed broccoli. Cover with sauce (below). Sprinkle with the buttered breadcrumbs or crushed Ritz crackers. Top with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Sprinkle with paprika for extra color and a piquant flavor.

Brown on the top third shelf in a 350°F. oven for about 15 minutes or until nicely golden.

Variation: Cooked elbow macaroni and sliced mushrooms may be added before being topped with the sauce.

Sauce:

1 cup milk or cream
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. flour
1/2 cup Gruyere or sharp Cheddar cheese
1/2 tsp. Coleman's Mustard

In a microwavable bowl, melt butter; whisk in flour and when blended, slowly stir in milk. Heat for 3-5 minutes, stirring occasionally until mixture thickens. Beat a few tablespoons of the hot liquid into 1 egg yolk; then transfer the egg yolk back into the sauce, whisking quickly. Add 1/2 cup Gruyere or sharp Cheddar cheese and 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard. Microwave another 1 or 2 minutes or until cheese has melted.
To save on clean-up and extra preparation steps, (an important consideration in the Cooks.com Test Kitchen!) this sauce is easiest to prepare in a microwave, but may also be made in a double boiler, as is done traditionally.


Haven't made it myself, but there are two positive reviews from folks who have, and the hit offers several recipes that look interesting.

If you search on "broccoli casserole recipe", you get About.com Southern Foods at:

http://southernfood.about.com/od/brocco ... ecipes.htm

That broccoli pudding really sounds good.

I wonder if Kimball shouldn't have done a bit of site checking before supporting his attack with "broccoli casserole"?


Bob, dubious about any recipe that says "milk or cream".
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Re: Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

by David M. Bueker » Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:31 am

As a general rule broccoli casserole belongs in the gallery of regrettable foods.
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Re: Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

by Karen/NoCA » Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:16 am

Daniel Rogov wrote:About professionalism and amateurism, some good points in the article.

As to the recipe... Not to get me wrong - I adore broccoli, parmesan cheese, butter, garlic, bread crumbs, Coleman's mustard, cream, milk and each of the other ingredients* but put those together as directed and I wonder if you don't have something that might have been more appropriate for the table of 1955 than of 2010. Edible, I'm sure. Whether I would want to eat or not is a vastly different story.

Best
Rogov

*Heck, I even like Ritz crackers, especially when simply munched from the box.


I agree with you about the 1955 table. I love broccoli and all the other ingredients, as well, however for some reason I can't take broccoli in a casserole type dish. We eat it every week, but very simply, usually sauteed with garlic, evoo and lemon juice. Another favorite is pairing it with mustard, and when I can handle the extra calories, a little mayo.
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Re: Kimball on "Gourmet"; death to the blogs

by Dale Williams » Thu Oct 15, 2009 8:44 pm

Remember, this recipe is the first that comes up if you Google "broccoli casserole"
So if the concept of broccoli casserole isn't attractive to you, it's not the recipes fault.
I've made some decent things from CI, but it's scarcely the last word in cooking/recipes/technique

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