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How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

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Carl Eppig

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How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

by Carl Eppig » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:07 am

Less than a year ago one would have to look long and hard to find a can of San Marzanos, and expect to pay around $5-$6 for it when found. Nowadays they're everwhere; even with ubiquitous brands like Cento who sells them for $2.99 per can.

Considering the low output per bush of these delicious tomatoes, I'm beginning to get a little suspicious. Is the whole country covered with San Marzano plants these days? Where are they growing the grapes?
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Daniel Rogov

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Re: How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

by Daniel Rogov » Sun Aug 30, 2009 12:59 pm

Carl, Hi....

If you and I had a dollar to share for every tin of San Marzano tomatoes were actually Roma's, we would both be zillionaires. The good news is that even in the USA if they are true San Marzano tomatoes the label will carry the EU "DOP" indication, that indicating that the tomatoes truly come from the appelation and are of the same sub-varietal.

The truest San Marzano tomatoes come from the region of Sicily. The tomato has, however, adopted well to the soil of parts of Lebanon, Israel and would you believe Washington State and the quality of those is every bit as good as "the real thing". I buy them fresh in my local greengrocers in Tel Aviv. Those that survive the trip home (I love the bitterness and always pop a few in my mouth while walking home) go primarily into sauces. Ain't nuttin like a San Marzana for a good tomato sauce.

Best
Rogov
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ChefJCarey

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Re: How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

by ChefJCarey » Sun Aug 30, 2009 1:03 pm

I bought Israeli San Marzanos for years at my school.
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Mark Lipton

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Re: How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

by Mark Lipton » Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:21 pm

This year my agriculturally inclined wife found San Marzano seeds and grew about 20 plants from them. Yes, the tomatoes were the right shape and, most importantly, the right taste, too, when they ripened. The only problem was keeping the bunnies and deer away from them long enough for them to ripen :cry: We managed to harvest about 10 lb of the tomatoes in the end from which I just made 3 qt of tomato sauce :D

Mark Lipton
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Dale Williams

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Re: How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

by Dale Williams » Tue Sep 01, 2009 11:38 am

Mark Lipton wrote:This year my agriculturally inclined wife found San Marzano seeds and grew about 20 plants from them. Yes, the tomatoes were the right shape and, most importantly, the right taste, too, when they ripened. The only problem was keeping the bunnies and deer away from them long enough for them to ripen :cry: We managed to harvest about 10 lb of the tomatoes in the end from which I just made 3 qt of tomato sauce :D


What is your soil like? Besides the variety, the other (supposed) critical reason the SM DOP tomatoes are distinctive is the volcanic soil. Do you have any idea of what your soil is like, or whether Jean added ash or something? Just curious if it's likely we could do. Though we're probably low on sunshine.
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Mark Lipton

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Re: How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

by Mark Lipton » Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:26 pm

Dale Williams wrote:
What is your soil like? Besides the variety, the other (supposed) critical reason the SM DOP tomatoes are distinctive is the volcanic soil. Do you have any idea of what your soil is like, or whether Jean added ash or something? Just curious if it's likely we could do. Though we're probably low on sunshine.


I think that the significance of the volcanic soil lies primarily in its drainage. I would never claim that ours are as good as SM DOPs but the resemblance is quite clear. (Hey, this is the terroir argument all over again, innit?) We basically dry farmed ours this wet summer, and our clay-rich soil doesn't retain moisture terribly well, so our tomatoes weren't as waterlogged as they might otherwise have been. I guess that I'll just have to send you some of the sauce to see what you think, Dale.

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Jeff Grossman

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Re: How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

by Jeff Grossman » Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:39 pm

I thought clay-rich soils do retain water.
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ChefJCarey

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Re: How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

by ChefJCarey » Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:12 pm

Jeff Grossman/NYC wrote:I thought clay-rich soils do retain water.



Me, too.
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Mark Lipton

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Re: How Many San Marzanos in Italy?

by Mark Lipton » Wed Sep 02, 2009 12:43 am

Jeff Grossman/NYC wrote:I thought clay-rich soils do retain water.


In an absolute sense they might, but from the plant's perspective it ain't there: our clay soils dry out and crack quickly if it doesn't rain. The soil is dry and crumbly to the touch, too, and you'll see sensitive plants lose their torpor quickly. Around here, if you want to retain more moisture in the soil, you amend with peat. Since there are many different types of clay, I wonder if the particular type of clay you're dealing with alters the moisture retention? It'd make sense, since some clays -- notably zeolites -- are renowned for their hygroscopic properties.

Mark Lipton

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