I'm a big fan of artisanal salumi & other pig parts. The best I've had have been from Salumi Salami out of Seattle by Marilyn & Armandino Batali, Mario's parents. But they are often/usually not available on their WebSite (http://www.SalumiCuredMeats.com) & when you do order, you usually get this nice/very apologetic e-mail from Marilyn regretting that they are out of stock and have none currently available.
I've had the ones from a guy in SaltLakeCity that were very good...but frightfully expensive.
The original Fra'Mani salumi were good when I ordered them directly. But the ones I get thru WholeFoods don't seem as good and seem a bit on the greasy side (great salami should leave a clean aftertaste in your mouth).
On my last Calif trip, I had my eyes out for artisinal salumi. I was going to go to TheFattedCalf in Napa, but the timing (dawddled at wineries too long) did not work out. Found the Batali salumi at Dean&DeLuca, but they were (of course) very expensive. And some other brand that turned out to be not so good.
Then I struck it big time. At Donkey&Goat wnry, Tracey & Jared raved about the Adesso salumi they'd served at their open house. Adesso is a new restaurant just opened 2 weeks ago by Ben & Jon of Dopo, there on PiedmontAve in NorthEast Oakland. Alas, they (adesso) are only open for dinner and the timing was wrong for that.
So I went into Dopo for a quick lunch. Who should I happen to sit down beside but OliverMcCrum (importer of some great Italian wines, http://www.OliverMcCrumWines.com). We talked at length about nuclear forensics, strategic missle targeting by the Obama administration, primary boost, radiation implosion of the secondary....all the usual Berkeley lunchtime conversation. When we got around to talking important issues, salumi & pig parts, Oliver got Ben to come over and chat. Ben makes the salami there at Dopo for use up at Adesso.
Alas, he explained, he couldn't sell me a whole salami because it was not legal to do so (the Feds are much more worried about illegal/lethal pig parts than they are the safety of our nuclear warheads, it would seem), only for use by customers in the restaurant. I whined/begged/cried/sobbed a bit, but to no avail.
Eventually I was able to escape w/ one of their whole soppressatas (don't ask!!) and strolled up Piedmont w/ it securely tucked under my arm for fear of being mugged in broad daylight and having it stolen. One happy camper.
I served it last Wed night at my usual wine tasting. It was a huge hit...one of the best salamis I've ever served to that group. It had a nice subtle spiciness to it. More importantly, it was not at all gristley in the mouth like many are. And the fat....incredible....almost like there was flecks of butter in it rather than plain ole pig fat. Whatta salami.
Dopo is one of my favorite Bay area restaurants when I want simple/rustic Italian fare. Their pizzas are about the best around. Open for both lunch & dinner. Small & crowded, but worth the wait.
Adesso is about 3 blks up Piedmont to the East. Alas, I didn't get to eat there this trip, but it's on the top of my list when I return in May. The menu is simple rustic/Italian fare as well. But they have 34 different salamies/charcuteries by the slice....34...count 'em. I can hardly wait to try Adesso out.
They also have a very nicely done wine-by-the-glass selection...very intelligently selected w/ lots of interesting things on it. Presumably a by-the-btl list as well. Turns out....small world...the wine list is done by Seth Cross. He's the son of Jean Painter, stepson of John Painter...the owners of LasMadres vnyd in Carneros...one of the top Syrah vnyds in Calif. I chatted w/ Seth a bit on the street outside Adesso, afore they opened. Clearly very knowledgeable and passionate about Italian wine.
So... a big rec for Dopo and Adesso out on PiedmontAve in NorthOakland if you love pig parts.
Tom