Hope in the Heartland

I know it's always fashionable for us trendy Coastal types (whether East or West) to shrug and dismiss the Great Middle of the Country as "Flyover Country", and chuckle condescendingly about the sparse choices of food and wine available. Sure, there are quain local customs and cuisines here and there, but not the vaunted "cutting edge" places that dare to venture onto daring new ground.

That is, of course, arogant and elitist, not too mention narcissistic. And sometimes (often?) just plain downright wrong.

Case in point: Just finished a brief business visit to Milwaukee, and at random went to two different restaurants in the area, one close to downtown Milwaukee, another in the quasi-distant suburb town of Delafield. Both were fun and interesting, and both were places I would happily go back to.

The first was Roots, perched over the river in what used to be a thoroughly disreputable district and is now a regenerated community of fashionable (but oversaturated and distressingly similary) condominiums. Roots is first and foremost a welcoming place, and though I've only been there in the dreary fall//winter months (of which there are about 10, alas), I'm quite sure it is a lively and lovely place to be in the summertime. It's on two levels, with a more casual bar/pub atmosphere below (almost a necessity in tavern-friendly Milwaukee, I think), and a minimalist themed upper restaurant above, with a great veiw of the downtown skyline.

The menu was instantly appealling. Here was a Chef who was quite willing to challenge himself and his customers with an only slightly bizarre mixture of good solid Midwestern meat dishes (emphasis on substance: this is, after all, the general area where people will go to Charlie Trotter's, then stop for an Italian Beef on the way home) and meatless, vegetarian, and vegan offerings. Thing is, the meatless/vegan are damned interesting, as in the Seichan "meatballs", both vegan and hearty. I can personally attest to how good the "Amish Chicken" is; if you go there and it's on the list, order it and you won't be sorry. They have some beautiful and creative appetizer selections too, from the Walleye Pike Fingers with a delectable sauce to some "Eggplant Fries" that are good enough to write home about.

The wine list was not quite up to the same level as the food. On the other hand, it was pretty damned good, covered all the bases, and had some outstanding selections on it. It wasn't awesome, and it perhaps unveiled a bit more of the buyer's interests than I thought necessary---on the other hand, it was more daring, and more interesting than a bunch of East Coast/West Coast restaurants I can name, and it did have a personality. Plus, the buyer's interest coincided with mine enought to resonate comfortably, so who am I to complain? I suspect the buyer is working with what he/she has available, and also taking care to put enough comfort zone of old reliables out there to work for hi clientele.

All in all, the food at Roots was great, and the wine list was above average. The bar scene is great too. I can see why the place is popular.

The other restaurant was reccoed by a local. It is "Zin", and it's in Delafield, a lovely little lakeside community just off I94 between Milwaukee and Madison (and right next to the Kettle Moraine Park area, which all visitors should see). This tidy little community is a delightful little place, and situated perfectly: just close enough to the metro areas, but just far enough from the Freeway to maintain a small town feel.

Zin was a bit closer to the "upscale pizza and pasta" joint. Again, very minimalist, but minimalist with lots of light, bright woods enhance by splashes of colorful modern art. The place has a friendly, casual vibe and attracts a goodly crowd. We were graced with one of the cutest, and friendliest waiters, Tiana, who charmed us with her bubbly personality and just-right banter, to help make our evening easy and pleasant. The sizable cocktails with extra-heavy pours didn't hurt either; great bar scene, if that's your wont.

As said, the primary menu draws are the upscale pizzas and pastas, and we could handle a little carbo-loading about then, so we all opted for pasta dishes. So I can't say anything about the main course/meat dishes, except that they certainly looked interesting and appetizing. And each of the pastas was spot-on, from a rich scallop capellini to a pesto-driven frutti di mare (!) to a shrimp and chicken tagliatelle in very light tomato sauce (following an adage I heard a long time ago about good Italian restaurants: a good sauce should be a sauce, not a drowning in gravy). Great food, creatively prepared.

Here the wine list was a bit closer to the usual suspects---but the usual suspects were at least nice, reputable guys. And they shied away from fruit bombs and jam jars so common and dominat today. There was some careful selectivity going on: not a daring list, no, but very selectively chosen to fit with the food.

So I'd give high marks to the Milwaukee area based on what I've sampled recently (and the last couple of visits, especially to the trendy Third Ward). There are some fun and challenging things going on for foodies in the area, and the wine scene is getting better all the time.

Interesting post, Hoke. Yes, there is some culinary life here in Flyover Country, though I am surprised that you found as much as you did in M'waukee. Chicago, of course, is the Big Exception, with Alinea garnering much attention and Moto also making some waves. Trotter, Bayless and Arun's in their day also were quite trend-setting, though I've never been as taken with Tru as many have.

Mark Lipton

Interesting post, Hoke. Yes, there is some culinary life here in Flyover Country, though I am surprised that you found as much as you did in M'waukee. Chicago, of course, is the Big Exception, with Alinea garnering much attention and Moto also making some waves. Trotter, Bayless and Arun's in their day also were quite trend-setting, though I've never been as taken with Tru as many have.

Mark Lipton

And Blackbird!

Chicago has always been different anyway.

I think Milwaukee is still safely within the comfortable and predictable Midwestern Zone, Mark...but there are some intriguing exceptions, and I find more of them each time I venture back. There is definitely some creativity going on there---which of course means there is a market population existing that responds to it. Wisconsin has always teetered between the rural/agricultural and the urban/industrial zones, with the urban/industrial being only slightly more supportive of a progressive food/wine culture. Now that the urban/industrial is fading away and we're seeing the emergence of more "info/support/techno" economy dominating---hence more educated young professionals who are not blue collar---we're seeing more emergence of the type of food establishments that cater to them. At least, I think that's what is happening.

Milwaukee has dramatically shifted from a corner tavern dominated culture to more of a restaurant culture, and that mostly within the last 20 years. It's perhaps more noticeable to me because I moved away more than 30 years ago but go back periodically. But there's still a groundrock of good old fashioned Midwestern there.

And Blackbird!

Assuming that you meant to add that to the trend-setting list, I'll note that I find its interior too noisy for a pleasant dining experience. Their wine bar next door (Avec), though, while still ridiculously crowded, is for me a more pleasant experience.

Chicago has always been different anyway.

In most ways, yup, though your comment about the Italian Beef after dinner at Trotter's is spot on. And... Californians narcissistic, Hoke?? After nearly 20 years of enduring the questions from my friends in the Bay Area of how I can endure living in a cultural backwater with no redeeming features (very observant for people who've never set foot in the state), I can't imagine what you're referring to

Mark Lipton

Hope in the Heartland? I certainly hope so.

And here I thought that you were talking about this restaurant from the title. It's absolutely worth it if you find yourself in the Twin Cities.

And... Californians narcissistic, Hoke?? After nearly 20 years of enduring the questions from my friends in the Bay Area of how I can endure living in a cultural backwater with no redeeming features (very observant for people who've never set foot in the state), I can't imagine what you're referring to

Mark Lipton

LOL. True all that. My hometown is Fort Wayne, so I understand both worlds. Fort wayne has many good points, but I could no longer live without mountains and the ocean within an hour drive.

It's not so black and white though. My hometown is overall MORE sophisticated than the very outer Bay Area suburb I currently reside in (Solano County).

LOL. True all that. My hometown is Fort Wayne, so I understand both worlds. Fort wayne has many good points, but I could no longer live without mountains and the ocean within an hour drive.

It's not so black and white though. My hometown is overall MORE sophisticated than the very outer Bay Area suburb I currently reside in (Solano County).

I hear you, Brian. My heart still breaks watching the moon set over the Bay from atop the East Bay Hills, and walking through a coastal Redwood forest in the fog is one of my most cherished experiences. (Sadly, I never really appreciated the staggering physical beauty of the SFBA until after I'd moved away). And I still get great enjoyment over dining out in the Bay Area (where the art of service isn't a lost art) and visiting wine country. But... we were able to purchase a 3000 sq ft., fully refurbished Victorian home here with virtually no savings and junior professor salaries, our neighborhood is so safe that our front door once stood open for a week with no disturbance (people still park their cars at the local mall with the windows rolled down in summer months) and our public schools, unlike those of my home town (Richmond) that threaten to go bankrupt for the second time since my departure in '77, are financially solvent and performing well.

And, as Hoke brought up, culinary developments here in the heartland have been catching up to those on the coasts. When I moved here in '90, ethnic food consisted of bad Italian(-American), Mexican(-American) and Chinese(-American) with one very good Japanese restaurant courtesy of the management of the local Subaru plant. Now, we have no less than 4 Indian, 5 Korean, 8 Japanese, 4 Middle Eastern, 3 Thai, countless Mexican and several nice "fine dining" establishments. Now, if only Chambers St. would open an outlet here (and the Sierras and Pacific move 2000 mi) life would be ideal

Mark Lipton

Hoke,

Thank you for the excellent post. Considering your sophistication and the fact that you have dinned in some of the finest restaurants in the world, it is truly high praise of Milwaukee for you to post those compliments.

After living in Los Angeles in the early 90’s, I lived in Milwaukee for 10 years on and off but moved permanently away approximately 4 years ago. While living in Milwaukee during those times I witnessed the total change and birth of a new restaurant environment. Chefs that were educated at the CIA and from New York and Chicago, for example, were taking risks and opening up new restaurants on the East Side and in the Third and Fifth Ward in Milwaukee. Those chefs and/or owners took a massive risk on Milwaukee, of all places, and it really paid off. Competition became fierce in places like the Third Ward and if they did not bring their “A Game” they knew they would go out of business within a year.

Years ago Milwaukee was a different city. More brewery and tough factory workers that liked their Pabst cold and their Friday fish fry hot. Now it is more of the yuppie condo crowd that like their sake warm and their sushi cold.

Everything changes, I guess, but at least when I lived there; Milwaukee had more good restaurants per capita than any other city of its size.

Yes, there is some culinary life here in Flyover Country, though I am surprised that you found as much as you did in M'waukee.

Mark Lipton

Why is that, Mark?

Yes, there is some culinary life here in Flyover Country, though I am surprised that you found as much as you did in M'waukee.

Mark Lipton

Why is that, Mark?

No intent to diss your former home, Dave, but my several visits to Milwaukee over the past two decades have left me with the indelible impression of a fairly depressed community, struggling with a number of fairly serious social issues. None of that precludes having interesting restaurants, but neither does it incline me to seek them out there.

Mark Lipton

Mark,

I do not take it as a "diss" at all because what you said is true. The only thing I would clarify is that it is the inner city/North Side of Milwaukee that is depressed and is plagued with social issues. The places I mentioned (East Side, Third Ward, Fifth Ward) are quite different. And that is usually the case with most cities. There are good parts of town and bad parts of town.

Sorry to hear that your visits resulted in negative experiences. I hope you at least got to have your picture taken next to the bronze Fonzie statue.

I hear what you're saying, Mark, and as Dave says, there's truth to it.

On the other hand, my recent visits to Milwaukee have revealed a more vibrant and upbeat atmosphere than I've seen in the last thirty years in that town.

Yes, problems are still there, but in the East Side, Downtown, and even the River West area, there are some dynamic things going on, with revitalized neighborhoods and wards. And the 'burbs are apparently doing just fine, thank you.

The Third Ward, south of the Spaghetti Knot, is booming, and slowly expanding further south to the formerly blighted area. Downtown is looking fairly good these days. There's actually more than just suburban bedroom communities north of the city now (who'da ever thunk it?). Even the Valley is not a total wasteland any more.

Sure, you can point to the North Side, and you can mourn the changes of the near South Side (while recognizing that things do and must change), but I'd say on the whole Milwaukee is showing some vitality and creativity, not least in the restaurant/nightlife realm.

One of the most noticeable things (especially to one who lived there many, many years ago and has visited since) is the demise, or at least serious withering away, of the old corner tavern industry. That used to dominate the town---and I think held down whatever creative foodie stuff could have gestated, frankly. But many, perhaps most, of those old tavern pubs have either died off with the owners or been legislated out of existence. And in the absence of those taverns, the restaurant scene has flourished, I think.

with one very good Japanese restaurant courtesy of the management of the local Subaru plant.
Mark Lipton

I think my previous car came out of that plant!

I could NOT live in those plains, though. That area makes Fort Wayne look topographically stunning. I attended Bradely University for a couple of years, and that drive was just ennervating.

Now it is more of the yuppie condo crowd that like their sake warm and their sushi cold..

So you mean they're still not a very sophisticated brand of yuppie. Surely some must follow the trends Hoke is proclaiming.

Nice report. I just got back from a trip to Dublin, Ireland which is sort of 'flyover country' for people jetting between the US and Europe. It was my first trip but of course I had heard about the decades/centuries of pathetic cuisine. However we ate excellent creative interesting modern/traditional food at every meal. Including some of the most savory and delicious Sichuan food I have eaten in years (which was new and still a rarity in Ireland, if anyone is keeping score).

That said, I am sure there are fewer options in a place like Dublin or Milwaukee in comparison to SF or New York. Although maybe that shouldn't be such a big deal.

The internet information age is surely reducing the importance of location for finding out about trends and for staying cutting-edge. I must admit that sometimes I find that competent chefs in smaller markets don't quite cook with the same confidence of Nyc or SF chefs because they haven't been abused by the same competitive high-expectations environments. So they will make nods towards trends bu not execute them with the same precision or elegance. But, I suppose in the end it all comes down to the individual chef and it sounds like you found some good ones.

I agree, Rahsaan, there are fewer options in places like Milwaukee and Dublin---the important thing is that there are now options, however few, when none existed before. There's no doubt that the Big Time still draws the most fiercely competitive and ego-driven chefs---just as it draws the most fiercely competitive and creative of any field!

What's impressive, though, is that cuisine---as opposed to just eating out---is becoming significant enough in the smaller secondary and tertiary markets in this country to attract and sustain creative and trend setting (or even trend copying, for a suhi place might be passe in New York, but damned exciting when it finally comes to your local burg) and keep them in business.

Case in point, and going back to Milwaukee: back in the 1970s, when I was a student at UWM, there was one (count 'em, 1) ground breaking, trend setting, entrepreneurial, artisanal coffee shop. It was over on the East Side (close to the U., of course) and it was a revelation---as well as being something of a laughing stock to many, mind you, about the ladida sophisticates and East Side snoots and hippies---and it featured freshly ground and freshly roasted beans from places with exotic names. And high prices too! And it sold something other than percolators that boiled coffee! People learned how to use Melitta drip pots, and to work with various fine grinds.

Keep in mind this was a good twenty years before Starbucks, and the first glimmer of the dawn of coffee culture in this country.

At that time, Milwaukee could support one good coffee store. Now, of course, it supports several. Back then, Milwaukee could support a handful of restaurants that were top notch, and most of those were pretty traditional, either "French"-Continental or German. And most people ate---if they 'dined out' at all---in the corner taverns.

Most of that has changed. Much of that can probably be ascribed to the tv/internet, yes, in that people are more globally aware and less regional now, and that means there is a greater market out there for good, creative cuisine and professional service than there ever was before. All I know is it's a great time to go to places where there used to be (from my point of view) a vast cultural wasteland, and be able to find, withou too much trouble, some interesting places to drink and dine.

Heck, you can go to Medford, Oregon now---the place they called "Dreadford", for good reason---and find a kick ass cutting edge tapas bar that features some great Spanish wines! And just down the road in Talent, you can go to Sammy's New Cowboy Bistro! And just north of there, in the Applegate Valley, you can find some really compelling Tempranillo!

It's a good time for food and wine lovers.

Sammy's New Cowboy Bistro! Somebody else does know about it! (The sign is hard to see folks). See, escape from California is possible!

Hoke,

Did you ever find the brat patty that I think you were looking for? It may have been at a place called Beer Belly's on Layton.

Hoke,

Did you ever find the brat patty that I think you were looking for? It may have been at a place called Beer Belly's on Layton.

Never have, Dave.

Oddly enough, I passed by that place (can't help but remember the rather Milwaukeean name, after all) on my way to Mitchell Field last month! Would now tend to avoid such a named place at all costs---especially since I resemble the remark now---but if they have the fabled brat patty and bean soup I so fondly remember, I might sacrifice myself just once.

On the other hand, I hear a faint refrain in my memory of "You can never go home again...." That probably applies in this instance.