Miso

Ruth Reichl is estatic about miso in "Gourmet's" weekly email:

"You know about obsessions; they're the things that invade your dreams and your quiet moments, leaving you with a mad longing for certain flavors. Lately I find myself obsessed with miso, the most amazing flavoring ingredient I've ever encountered. I like it mixed with butter and scallions, as in this recipe for roasted Japanese sweet potatoes, and worked into almost any savory dish. I like it in stews, where it contributes incredible depth. I like it on spinach, eggplant, and sea bass, too. And to be honest, sometimes I like it straight, eaten right out of the jar. I'm that obsessed."

I've used miso to make soup, of course, but haven't used it otherwise.

Any great recipes?

Is there a lower salt version that Janet would be able to eat?

Thanks, Bob

Miso is great with sweet potato. Also on grilled eggplant slices. I love the various colors- they all taste different and they're all wonderful.

Never had a non-salty one, though.

I love miso, but, like Janet, have to avoid it because of the sodium level.

Bob thanks you both. Good news and bad news , both.

Best, Bob

Here in Japan you can find lower sodium miso. So far I have only found the white miso available as lower sodium; not the red miso. Fish and vegetables such as daikon are common to find pickled in miso.

Here's a dish, adapted from Leslie Downer's "Japanese Vegetarian Cooking," that will give you soy overload.

Broiled Tofu with Miso

Use firm tofu for this dish. Slice the tofu into sate-sized rectangles. Let drain on a board for a few minutes, then wrap in paper towels and cover with a relatively light weight- you want to force some water out but not squoosh the tofu.

While the tofu drains, prepare the miso sauce:

1/2 c white miso
1/2 cup dashi (I use a kombu seaweed broth- traditionalists can use seaweed and bonito)
2 tbs mirin
2 egg yolks
2 tbs ginger, minced
pinch powdered green tea

Combine the miso, dashi, mirin, and egg yolks in a small saucepan or metal bowl. Over boiling water, gently heat while whisking to form a smooth sauce. When the sauce is smooth and lovely, remove from the heat. Put the ginger in a garlic press and squeeze out the juice into the sauce. Add the tea, then whisk until smooth and well-mixed.

Pat the tofu dry, thread onto skewers, then put skewered tofu under the broiler until it starts to brown a little. Turn and brown the other side. Shmeer some of the miso sauce on and return to the broiler for a minute or so until it bubbles.

Serve with sake or a light sparkler like Sekt.

Love all forms as well. Use it frequently in a dressing for salads, raw or steamed veg, frozen peas. A little rice vinegar, grated ginger or lemongrass or keffir lime with a few drops of sesame oil +/- some sweetener... just a little dab will do it.
Terrific on grill veg - esp eggplant. Can't wait to try it on sweet potato which of course should be great - thanks.

Bob,

Yes, there is a lower salt version which I have seen at the Asian market I shop at in Chicago. I would give you the brand name but I do not read Japanese. Next time I am there I will ask for a translation and pass the brand name along to you.

My primary uses for miso are in soup and in a glaze for Salmon.

Bob,
There is Nobu's signature dish, miso-glazed black cod.

Mark Lipton

I love miso. It is a great instant soup. But, one of my favorite ways to use it is in a version of Misoyaki (black cod). A simple recipe can be found here.
I've eliminated one of the ingredients as I consider it optional. I have also had good results by marinating for 4-8 hrs rather than the 2 day requirement of this recipe. But, you decide. I also use it to stir-fry vegetables (eggplant especially). Good stuff.

Misoyaki Black Cod

3/4 Cup White Shiro Miso
1/2 Cup Sugar
1/4 Cup Sake
1/4 Cup Mirin
1 Tsp Real Soy Sauce - the kind really made from soybeans, not synthetic.

Combine Mirin, Sake, and Sugar in a small pot. Bring to a simmer stirring constantly until sugar is dissolved. Simmer for 2-3 minutes, until all the alcohol burns off. Remove from heat, and add Soy sauce to stop boiling. Slowly add Miso mixing until sauce is creamy. Do Not ever boil miso.....When sauce is cooled marinate black cod completely coating the fish. Marinate for at least 2 days, but 3 days is best. If using a conventional oven, pre-heat at 450 and bake fish for 5-8 minutes. When fish is almost cooked broil for an additional 2-3 minutes until well caramelized.

If you are doing batches over time, divide miso sauce into 2 "batches", brush misoyaki over fish and wrap each in plastic wrap. When broiling or cooking brush on miso glaze as necessary.

1/4 Cup Mirin
1 Tsp Real Soy Sauce - the kind really made from soybeans, not synthetic.

Jo Ann,

As you point out the use of real soy sauce, do you also use the real mirin? In Japanese, called hon mirin (本(hon)みりん(mirin) meaning original mirin, as opposed to aji mirin (taste of mirin) which also has added salt and corn syrup. When I lived in the US I had to go to a Japanese or Korean market to find the honmirin, but it is worth it. I found it to be no more expensive than the fake (aji mirin) stuff and far better tasting.

1/4 Cup Mirin
1 Tsp Real Soy Sauce - the kind really made from soybeans, not synthetic.

Jo Ann,

As you point out the use of real soy sauce, do you also use the real mirin? In Japanese, called hon mirin (本(hon)みりん(mirin) meaning original mirin, as opposed to aji mirin (taste of mirin) which also has added salt and corn syrup. When I lived in the US I had to go to a Japanese or Korean market to find the honmirin, but it is worth it. I found it to be no more expensive than the fake (aji mirin) stuff and far better tasting.

HI, Eric
The notations are those of the recipe owner, whose website I linked in my prior post. However, I shop only at Asian markets for my Asian supplies and ingredients. I really don't know which type of mirin I have because, besides the name and the distributor, all other information is in Japanes characters.

Synchronicity.

Steward in a restaurant just asked me to suggest a red wine for a Nobu-style glazed black cod, Mark.

My first reaction was "Run Away! Run Away!!!" as he wanted to know if he could pair a California Pinot Noir with the dish.

I shuddered, then said in only a slightly strangled voice "Best not, I think." I've had Nobu's version, and while it is good, that combo of soy, salt, and sticky cloying sweetness would sooooo trash a decent PN.

I suggested he just fall back on Riesling with a bit of RS.

Synchronicity.

Steward in a restaurant just asked me to suggest a red wine for a Nobu-style glazed black cod, Mark.

My first reaction was "Run Away! Run Away!!!" as he wanted to know if he could pair a California Pinot Noir with the dish.

I shuddered, then said in only a slightly strangled voice "Best not, I think." I've had Nobu's version, and while it is good, that combo of soy, salt, and sticky cloying sweetness would sooooo trash a decent PN.

I suggested he just fall back on Riesling with a bit of RS.

I'm with ya all the way, Hoke. No red wine with that dish.

Mark Lipton

Miso is great with sweet potato. Also on grilled eggplant slices. I love the various colors- they all taste different and they're all wonderful.

Thanks Stuart. I tried a Shiro Soy Paste from Market Basket this weekend -- it's amazing the complexity it adds to both eggplant and to lentils.

37% sodium is a bit of a problem, impossible for Janet and my own taste for salt has become quite sensitive as a result of cooking so much salt free food. I'll go down to the big Oriental markets in Edgewater and explore the various types, and especially the white version which seems to run in the 12% range.

Best, Bob

PS: I tried the miso with eggplant and with lentils separately, and then with a simple eggplant/lentil creamy soup.

Creamy Eggplant-Lentil Soup
Adapted from "Food & Wine", February 2008

One 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lb. eggplant, quartered lengthwise
1 tbs. olive oil
1 medium onion
Ground black pepper to taste
[other spices as desired; I used basil and mint]
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup brown lentils
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth, divided
1 tbs. lemon juice

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place the eggplant quarters, skin side down, on a foil-lined baking sheet and lightly coat with olive oil. Season with pepper and bake until eggplant flesh is lightly browned and very tender, about 25 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the lentils in the saucepan, add enough water to cover by about 2 inches and bring to a boil. Simmer until lentils are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion, sautee until soft (about 5 minutes), and add the spices. Add the garlic and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more. Add onion mixture to a blender and set aside.

When eggplant is done, let it cool slightly, then scrape the flesh into the blender with the onion mixture. Add 1 cup of the chicken broth and puree until smooth. Transfer to the saucepan. Now, add the drained lentils to the blender along with the other cup of chicken broth and puree. Add to the saucepan with the eggplant mixture.

Stir in the lemon juice, and simmer to reduce to desired thickness.

This works great for both Janet and me -- I added miso to taste in my portion, and wished Janet could have shared mine. She added lots of pepper and liked it very much. A keeper in our house, swinging both ways.

B.