Cassoulet à la MFK Fisher

Every year for the past deacde or so, I've brightened the dead of winter by preparing cassoulet and inviting friends over to share it. This year's version is a bittersweet event, as my partner in crime Bartow is retiring and moving to France. As he has prepared and supplied the saucisse de Toulouse for this dish the last 4-5 years, this will be a grievous loss. The recipe I use is modified from one published by the redoubtable MFK Fisher in an old Time/Life series book "The Cooking of Provincial France."

Day 1 - Preparing the bean stock

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The saucisse, salt pork, onions, garlic and thyme were all added to the simmering duck stock, and the simmering was continued for 45 minutes. To be continued...

Mark Lipton

The assembled bean stock was simmered for 45 minutes, at which point the saucisse was removed to a plate and the rest continued at a simmer for another 30 minutes until the beans were tender.

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At the end of that time, the salt pork was removed and added to the saucisse, the onions and bouquet garni were discarded and the stock was poured through a sieve into a mixing bowl for skimming and overnight storage. The beans and meat were likewise stored overnight in the "fridge" (our back porch, which functions as a walk-in fridge/freezer/deep freeze this time of the year)

To be continued...

Mark Lipton

I love Cassoulet and made with my classes four times per year for over 20 years. I even had one on one of my restaurant's menus.

(I see a leek in the bouquet garni).

(I see a leek in the bouquet garni).

It should be there Chef. She calls for a "Bouquet garni made of 4 parsley sprigs, 3 celery tops, white part of 1 leek, and 2 bay leaves wrapped and tied in a cheesecloth."

[Jenise]

The beans and meat were likewise stored overnight in the "fridge" (our back porch, which functions as a walk-in fridge/freezer/deep freeze this time of the year)

To be continued...

Mark Lipton

Love the photos, love the thoughts, love the tradition. I don't even know Bartow but after looking at the pictures I'm sad too that he's moving away (but terribly envious).

You made me laugh with your back porch comment. We do likewise all winter long. Last Christmas I kept seven frozen capons on the roof for several weeks. And we never have to worry about how to keep the bubbly and the white wines chilled for our large annual neighborhood Christmas dinner party.

To be continued...

Mark Lipton

Can't wait! Want more pics!

It's 5.45am on Sunday morning and I couldn't sleep - this is such a nice thing to wake up to. Love the photos and the step by step instructions. Thanks Mark!

Celia

(I see a leek in the bouquet garni).

It should be there Chef. She calls for a "Bouquet garni made of 4 parsley sprigs, 3 celery tops, white part of 1 leek, and 2 bay leaves wrapped and tied in a cheesecloth."

Oh, I have absolutely no problem with the leek - I like it in there, in fact. Just wasn't in the slug line.

Continue! Continue!!!!

Day 2 - Assembling the cassoulet

Braising the meats

I created some "lardons" by dicing jowl bacon and rendering the fat in a sauté pan. 1 lb each of lamb shoulder and pork loin were cut into 2" cubes and seared in a bit of the pork fat, then transfered to a Dutch oven and braised in the oven with tomato, onion, celery and white wine for an hour.

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To be continued...

Mark Lipton

Day 2 - Assembling the cassoulet

The finished product

The meat was removed from its juices after braising and the the juices were skimmed, strained and added to the bean stock. Now, we are ready for the completion of the dish. A 1" layer of beans was placed in a heavy casserole, followed by half the meat (pork, lamb, lardons, salt pork, sliced saucisse and duck confit), another layer of beans, the rest of the meat, another layer of beans and a bread crumb crust. Bean stock was added almost to the top of the beans and the dish was heated on the stove until the stock boiled, at which point it was placed into a 350° oven. The cassoulet was cooked at 350° for 1 1/2 hours and then served.

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10 of us dined happily on the cassoulet, with enough left over for 1-2 more people. With the cassoulet, we served a '99 Montus Madiran and an '01 Ch. La Roque Cupa Numismae. A green salad accompanied it, and a fruit salad served as dessert.

To be continued...

Love the photos, love the thoughts, love the tradition. I don't even know Bartow but after looking at the pictures I'm sad too that he's moving away (but terribly envious).

Thanks, Jenise. As a postscript (before my final installment) I'll add that Bartow, a Southern gentleman to the core, in a fit of alcohol-induced sentimentality proclaimed that he would return from France for next year's event. I won't hold him to that promise, as voluntary relocation from France to Indiana in February is grounds for involuntary institutionalization in most States.

You made me laugh with your back porch comment. We do likewise all winter long. Last Christmas I kept seven frozen capons on the roof for several weeks. And we never have to worry about how to keep the bubbly and the white wines chilled for our large annual neighborhood Christmas dinner party.

Chickens on the roof, Jenise? How very Chagallian of you. We do the same with our annual Christmas party for our research groups, putting all the bubbly, white wine and beer on the back porch. The one caveat is that we have to get rid of leftover beer quickly afterward in case the temperature drops so low (as it did this year) that the beer freezes and burst the bottles.

Mark Lipton

The one caveat is that we have to get rid of leftover beer quickly afterward in case the temperature drops so low (as it did this year) that the beer freezes and burst the bottles.

Mark Lipton

Tough job, but somebody's got to do it, eh Mark?

The one caveat is that we have to get rid of leftover beer quickly afterward in case the temperature drops so low (as it did this year) that the beer freezes and burst the bottles.

Mark Lipton

Tough job, but somebody's got to do it, eh Mark?

I am a conscientious housekeeper

Mark Lipton

Mark, I may have missed it, but where did the appropriate duck confit come from? It only appeared in the assembly section. Fisher broiled a whole duck.

Mark, I may have missed it, but where did the appropriate duck confit come from? It only appeared in the assembly section. Fisher broiled a whole duck.

Apologies, Carl, but I made it a month earlier and neglected to get any photos at the time. I was time-stressed when putting the cassoulet together, so failed to photo them then, too. Suffice it to say that they were 4 D'Artagnan Moulard duck legs, salted for 3 days and then poached at 190-200°F for 2 hours in goose fat (courtesy of my pal Bartow -- handy guy to have around). They were allowed to ripen in the fridge for a month before using in this dish and were an appealing shade of grey-brown. One aspect of this dish is that it transforms the confit to a more appealing (to me) form by heat-induced hydration. Before incorporation into the cassoulet, the confit is very firm and salty, both of which are lessened by the second cooking. You're absolutely right that Mary Frances suggested broiling the duck, so that's my most serious deviation from her published recipe. That touch strikes me as a concession to the times (early '60s IIRC) when confit de cuisses de canard would have been as alien to American kitchens (and grocery stores) as sambal oelek.

Mark Lipton

Every year for the past deacde or so, I've brightened the dead of winter by preparing cassoulet and inviting friends over to share it. This year's version is a bittersweet event, as my partner in crime Bartow is retiring and moving to France. As he has prepared and supplied the saucisse de Toulouse for this dish the last 4-5 years, this will be a grievous loss. The recipe I use is modified from one published by the redoubtable MFK Fisher in an old Time/Life series book "The Cooking of Provincial France."

Hi Mark,

I first became aware of MFK Fisher when Jenise posted on her 1930's Ratatouille way back on the old FLDG. I made the recipe and fell head over heels for the dish, which I had been only lukewarm to before that time. Growing up on a farm in France in the 40's and 50's was I am sure much different, so I had never heard of cassoulet until I was grown and in fact had become middle age. Speaking of the original FLDG, I recall Lou Kessler speaking of meals that he and his wife BettyLu do a couple times per year. I commented then that I sure wished that I lived closer so I might partake of her cassoulet. Both have generously invited me to make a special trip to sit at their table. I have now Her description of how she makes hers, and I have yours complete with pictures saved to my food folder on my computer. Thanks for going to the trouble to post it.

Thanks, Mark. I love cassoulet and I like a photo essay that takes you into the creation! Problem is that I always find it gets so hectic when I am in the middle of a project, I forget to record it!

These photos are so enjoyable! I am making a ragu for the first time tomorrow (a la Giorgio Locatelli) and it's inspired me to make photos along the way, even though it isn't nearly as interesting as cassoulet. But seeing the process of cooking is so darn fascinating. cheers, Bonnie