Single Origin Espresso

Over the past six months, I have been making espresso at home. During that time, I’ve probably used 10 different espresso blends from a number of different roasters. Of course, favorites emerged, especially the three beans from Counter Culture Coffee (see links below) that are blended to represent the different styles of espresso from Northern, Central and Southern Italy.

Recently, I have started using single origin beans for making espresso. I have had some hits and some misses, but recently found a bean that pulls a very nice espresso from Novo Roasters. This Gololcha from Harar, Ethiopia is really quite different from the blends I am accustomed to using, not to say better, but equally good. If I were to describe the difference simply it would be that the blends have an overall richer denser flavor with a lot of viscosity and the Gololcha has a cleaner taste with individual taste elements more discernable and a lighter feel in the mouth. They all produce excellent crema.

For those that use single origins for espresso, I would be interested to hear your thoughts and have you share what beans you are enjoying. For those that haven’t tried single origin, you may find them worth trying.

http://www.counterculturecoffee.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=41&category_id=5&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=42

http://www.counterculturecoffee.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=31&category_id=5&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=42

http://www.counterculturecoffee.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=40&category_id=5&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=42

https://www.novocoffee.com/nc_coffee_details.asp?ItemCatID=6&ItemName=Gololcha%20Espresso

Over the past six months, I have been making espresso at home. During that time, I’ve probably used 10 different espresso blends from a number of different roasters. Of course, favorites emerged, especially the three beans from Counter Culture Coffee (see links below) that are blended to represent the different styles of espresso from Northern, Central and Southern Italy.

Recently, I have started using single origin beans for making espresso. I have had some hits and some misses, but recently found a bean that pulls a very nice espresso from Novo Roasters. This Gololcha from Harar, Ethiopia is really quite different from the blends I am accustomed to using, not to say better, but equally good. If I were to describe the difference simply it would be that the blends have an overall richer denser flavor with a lot of viscosity and the Gololcha has a cleaner taste with individual taste elements more discernable and a lighter feel in the mouth. They all produce excellent crema.

Very interesting post, Greg. It's always been my feeling that the dark roasting of coffee obscures the regional character of the beans much as the heavy use of oak will obscure the terroir of wine. FWIW, I find the coffees of E Africa to be high-toned with floral character, sort of like old school Rioja. Interesting that it would give a richer, denser flavor to espresso.

Mark Lipton

For someone who is dead serious about coffee quality -- you really need to take the obvious step and start roasting your own. It is a Bad Thing to be dependent on commercial roasters. You are never totally sure WHEN the coffee was roasted and commercial roasters really do charge quite a bit for their services.

I started ordering green beans from Sweet Maria's

http://www.sweetmarias.com/

They keep a long time, and there is an astonishing variety of small estates available from around the world. There is also more information than a human can comprehend about the roasting process. I bought a used hot air popcorn popper on eBay and 8 pounds of beans and went to work. I never got a truly satisfying product from the popper though. Decent stuff but nothing to brag about, like home-made wine. The best thing was that I got my neighbor interested and after spending a while with her own popcorn popper, she lowered a thermometer into the thing while it was roasting and learned 1) these things have a thermostat and 2) you can't get a true "city roast" at the temperatures they provide (unless you rewire it and take out the 'stat).

My neighbor bought a version of the "i-roast" which looks like a very fancy popcorn popper, and only does about a cup of beans at a time but does them to exquisite perfection. She is making espresso that matches the best I have had anywhere including Paris. The roaster costs $200 but it is worth it. And you really don't want to roast more coffee than you can use in a few days. Roasted coffee is like fresh bread, it goes downhill very quickly.

http://www.sweetmarias.com/prod.hearthwareiRoast2.shtml

Please take a look at Sweet Maria's...

Frank

[Jenise]

Frank, what about the aroma of roasting coffee beans? I have found the odor, when driving past commercial roasters when they've got a batch going, very unpleasant. I've never thought I'd want that around the house.

In good weather you can take the little machine out on the deck. With caffeine-containing beans there is a fair amount of smoke and chaff. If you have a hood or a vent there is a connector on top for a hose, you could vent away the smoke and smell. Of course it helps if you LIKE that smell. My neighbor just opens her bathroom window and roasts in the bathroom. The house smells like roasting coffee beans that way but she likes it.

With decaf beans something about the treatment cuts way back on smoke and chaff.

The roaster is not much bigger than a standard coffee thermos and can plug in anywhere.

F

I have a friend who roasts his own beans. His wife requires that he do this on the back patio. Works well - the coffee he makes is excellent.

Very interesting post, Greg. It's always been my feeling that the dark roasting of coffee obscures the regional character of the beans much as the heavy use of oak will obscure the terroir of wine. FWIW, I find the coffees of E Africa to be high-toned with floral character, sort of like old school Rioja. Interesting that it would give a richer, denser flavor to espresso.

Mark Lipton

I would agree with you on dark roasting. Perhaps that is why the espresso beans I am most fond of tend to be a Full City Roast rather than a fully carmelized French Roast.

Today's shot was a Brazilian single origin. A very good shot, although, I will need to dial in the grind and bean amount a bit as the pull was a little slow. Still, I had excellent tiger striping and crema. This shot had wonderful complex aromas. See link below for Ritual Roasters description, to which I would add cinnamon to the nose. A winner.
http://www.ritualcoffeeroasters.com/sweettoothcurrent.html

Next bean up will be this seasonal blend:
http://www.ritualcoffeeroasters.com/seasonalcurrent.html

For someone who is dead serious about coffee quality -- you really need to take the obvious step and start roasting your own. It is a Bad Thing to be dependent on commercial roasters. You are never totally sure WHEN the coffee was roasted and commercial roasters really do charge quite a bit for their services.

I started ordering green beans from Sweet Maria's

http://www.sweetmarias.com/

They keep a long time, and there is an astonishing variety of small estates available from around the world. There is also more information than a human can comprehend about the roasting process. I bought a used hot air popcorn popper on eBay and 8 pounds of beans and went to work. I never got a truly satisfying product from the popper though. Decent stuff but nothing to brag about, like home-made wine. The best thing was that I got my neighbor interested and after spending a while with her own popcorn popper, she lowered a thermometer into the thing while it was roasting and learned 1) these things have a thermostat and 2) you can't get a true "city roast" at the temperatures they provide (unless you rewire it and take out the 'stat).

My neighbor bought a version of the "i-roast" which looks like a very fancy popcorn popper, and only does about a cup of beans at a time but does them to exquisite perfection. She is making espresso that matches the best I have had anywhere including Paris. The roaster costs $200 but it is worth it. And you really don't want to roast more coffee than you can use in a few days. Roasted coffee is like fresh bread, it goes downhill very quickly.

http://www.sweetmarias.com/prod.hearthwareiRoast2.shtml

Please take a look at Sweet Maria's...

Frank

Frank,

I am sure you are right and at some point I will add roasting to my coffee making. But for now, I am enjoying the wide range of beans available out there from small roasters and I am still improving my home barista skills.

Sweet Maria's is a great site. Thanks for the link.

Decaf update.

I have tried a range of decaf beans for use in espresso, and sadly, they have all been disappointing. They pull very differently than regular beans, much faster shots and require significant adjustments to both grind and bean quantity. Even after the adjustments, they mainly pull sink shots.

Pleased to report, I have found a bean that pulls pretty good, if not great, shots (link below). This bean, from Novo roasters in Denver, after proper grind and dosing adjustments, pulls a nice tiger stripe shot from a bottomless portafilter, doesn't blonde prematurely (as do most decaf beans in my hands), has a nice crema and a balanced flavor. Not as complex as regular beans, including Novo's other beans, but a very acceptable shot. It is nice to have this available for when I really would like some more espresso, but have hit my limit for caffeine.

http://www.novocoffee.com/nc_coffee_details.asp?ItemCatID=6&ItemName=Novo%20Decaf%20Espresso