Is mole supposed to taste sweet?

I had to give my underling his performance review today, and as part of it, he got to choose the restaurant for lunch (within reason). He picked a Mexican place a few blocks from the office downtown called El Guapo's Cantina. Damn, no steak this time!
It turned out to be good for atmosphere (we dined at one of the rooftop tables), and the menu had some items that you won't find at your usual chain taco joints. I saw a mole dish on the menu, so thought I'd give it a try - it was Enchiladas de Mole Poblano. Their description: (We use 32 ingredients to create our rich mole sauce then spread it across our stacked smoked chicken and corn tortilla enchiladas, topped with Mexican crema, aged cotija cheese, onions and cilantro).

The waiter asked if I'd ever had mole before, with a half-amused, half-concerned look on his face. He explained that folks ordering it for the first time were usually surprised by what they got, that it was not your usual enchilada. I responded that I had an idea of what mole was, even though I had never even seen it on a menu before, and that I'd like to give it a try.

I somewhat liked it, but am not sure I'd order it again there. I tasted a strong cinnamon flavor, and could detect the chocolate and chile easily enough, but it seemed a bit too sweet to me. I think if the cinnamon had been toned down some, and the sweetness also toned down, I would have enjoyed it much more. Is it supposed to be so sweet?

Oh, they had good queso, chips & salsa, though not enough chile bite for me.

Here's the Website: http://www.elguaposcantina.net/site/elguapos/section/33

Hard to say, Roberto.

There's about a thousand or so different versions of mole, depending on who makes it.

Most of the ones made up here North of the Border tend to be (to me) too sweet and not spicy enough. Sounds like definitely too much cinnamon in yours, although that is a pretty standard ingredient of mole.

I think proper mole is supposed to have a bittersweet---leaning toward the more bitter side---flavor from the chocolate. However, I suspect a lot of the traditional down-home mole recipes have been blanded out for the gringos...more sugar, less heat.

Nothing sweet at all in ours including the unsweetened chocolate.

The chocolate is not the dominant flavor. It adds to the complexity of the dish...folks might say, "what is that I am tasting?" and it remains a mystery.

No, true mole Poblano should't be sweet at all, and cinnamon shouldn't be a dominant flavor, either. At its best, it's a very rich and complex melange of flavors that's almost impossible to describe. OTOH, I don't expect to find many versions of it on this side of the border that come close to the authentic thing.

Mark Lipton

There is no right answer as to whether there should be sweetness to Mole Poblano. Everyone makes theirs slightly differently. One can include raisins, caramelized onion, other sweet fruit - fresh or dried. I think a bare hint of sweet from raisin or date adds to the depth and complexity and balance, but it could easily be overdone. Maybe your version lacked enough salt or acid to balance the slight sweetness, or they use bittersweet instead of bitter chocolate.

Not the mole that I've eaten or cooked myself.

Of course, mole Poblano is only one of many moles out there and as others have pointed out, there are many recipes for mole Poblano. I'm not sure I'd go so far as to say a true mole Poblano not being sweet at *all*. After all, as Bernard said, many authentic formulations include dried fruit; Mexican chocolate (which also contains sugar) is also often included. But I'd agree that touch of sugar should just be adding to the balance/complexity and the overall impression shouldn't be of "sweet" food. I used to think that having a decent mole was a good test for Mexican restaurants, along with making an acceptable chile relleno. Lately, though, I've had such bad luck with both I'm thinking of swearing them off altogether. The last two restaurant moles I've had were disgraces - peanut- and sugar-dominated. They were not only very sweet but also lacking in any of the complexity that is the very essence of a good mole. Think thinned, sweetened peanut butter. Just awful.

Chilli /Chili offsets sugar and vice-versa. So perhaps the balance was wrong.

Mark: I share your general experience and resulting disdain for mole sauce in the US.

As much as I can appreciate a good mole, I would almost never order one above the border (or in a border town, either, for that matter), because they are usually so poor (changed for the sake of the gringo palate, I think, and clearly not for the better). So much as I miss it, I usually have mole only when I'm solidly in Mexico.

Of course, mole Poblano is only one of many moles out there and as others have pointed out, there are many recipes for mole Poblano. I'm not sure I'd go so far as to say a true mole Poblano not being sweet at *all*. After all, as Bernard said, many authentic formulations include dried fruit; Mexican chocolate (which also contains sugar) is also often included. But I'd agree that touch of sugar should just be adding to the balance/complexity and the overall impression shouldn't be of "sweet" food. I used to think that having a decent mole was a good test for Mexican restaurants, along with making an acceptable chile relleno. Lately, though, I've had such bad luck with both I'm thinking of swearing them off altogether. The last two restaurant moles I've had were disgraces - peanut- and sugar-dominated. They were not only very sweet but also lacking in any of the complexity that is the very essence of a good mole. Think thinned, sweetened peanut butter. Just awful.

I'm with you all the way, Mark. I've had better luck in restaurants with chiles rellenos than moles (except for the creative moles at Rick Bayless's places in Chicago). These days, if I want a mole, I make it for myself (setting aside the 1-2 days required to do it). The good news is that, once made, the mole sauce can be frozen for use over the next few months.

Mark Lipton

Mark: I share your general experience and resulting disdain for mole sauce in the US.

As much as I can appreciate a good mole, I would almost never order one above the border (or in a border town, either, for that matter), because they are usually so poor (changed for the sake of the gringo palate, I think, and clearly not for the better). So much as I miss it, I usually have mole only when I'm solidly in Mexico.

I guess I'm an incurable optimist (or just like beating my head against the wall ) but I keep trying. I'm not quite as gloomy about north-of-the-border mole as you are but if I were rational about it, the odds are so low that I should admit defeat. If you're ever in the South Bay, you might give the mole at Baja Cactus in Milpitas a try. I have to admit it's been a long, long time (more than ten years) since I've been but I'd be interested to read an update. The mole is (or used to be) excellent and the menu in general is more authentic than most, lacking the usual gringo influences. When you see stuff like birria, nopalitos and albondigas on the menu, you're at least confident you're in nobody's Taco Bell.

Mark: I share your general experience and resulting disdain for mole sauce in the US.

As much as I can appreciate a good mole, I would almost never order one above the border (or in a border town, either, for that matter), because they are usually so poor (changed for the sake of the gringo palate, I think, and clearly not for the better). So much as I miss it, I usually have mole only when I'm solidly in Mexico.

Hoke,

I am surpised that with the huge Mexican population in your part of the country that you would not have many restaurants that would be authentic and not just skewing to the "gringo palate". Or maybe you just don't have a lot of cooks from Oaxaca or Puebla?

There are some "authentic" restaurants in S. CA and TX that serve good mole. Authentic meaning homemade by someone who knows and understands the genre.

That said, the best moles I've had were homemade. I was an assistant at a cooking class where the instructor taught how to make 3 types of mole. The central point is not so much a recipe as a foundation of a few basic techniques. Once assimilated, the home cook can experiment with many ingredients and variations, and season to taste.