What an incredibly beautiful, vibrant, lively town this is.
Situated in the midst of scenic splendor that few cities could better, Vancouver is all ahustle-bustle as it gets ready for its 2010 Olympics showcase. But there's a lot more than the upcoming festivities going on in this city. It's a youthful town, vigorous and colorful, in constant motion and fervor, but it somehow manages to keep its perspective and balance.
The core city is neatly divided into small but discrete neighborhoods, each with its own flavor. The Gaslight may hold sway as the funkiest, certainly for nightlife, but the others aren't far behind, and they are all worth exporation.
Since we had a brief stay before I had to get down to work (i.e., go inside a building and stay there all day), we took the easiest and most economical way to see the city, the Vancouver Trolley. It's a one-charge-all-day, hop on/hop off tour of the city with congenial and well-informed trolley drivers narrating the highlights as you go. It's a great way to see the entire scope of Vancouver-proper, and then deciding where you wanted to go back to.
We jumped off the Trolley in Stanly Park. Editorial POV: anyone who doesn't jump off and sample Stanly Park is a pluperfect idiot, since it is one of the grandest and most pristine---and most usable---of city parks, encompassing about as much space as the rest of the city and perched on its perfect peninsular point for maximum scenery. Stanly has a combination dual walkway/rollway around its entire circumference, and at any given time of day you can see what is apparently a large percetange of the population taking advantage of it. Internally, the park is famous for its rose garden (not in its glory while we were there in Novermber, alas), it's scenic views from all points, from bay to mountains to sound, and its Aquarium.
It's a relatively small and somewhat old-fashioned style of aquarium---but don't let that fool you, for it is one of the most fun aquariums I've ever been through. The internal scenes are great, especially the colorful jellyfish wing, but the highlight is the outdoor tanks with subterranean (sub-aquaeus?) viewing. We spent a lovely long time enjoying the sheer beauty of three beluga whales, two dams and a two-month old baby) in their ghostly white magnificence. Then we cracked up over three of the most scenic---and scene stealing----sea otters (apparently the most YouTube-viewed animals around) frolicking and playing to the crowd. We were also lucky enough to catch a performance with a striped dolphin and some lucky couple who were brought in by the trainer to pet and fondle the dolphin and participate in its performance. They were hardly more dazzled than we at these amazing creatures. So if you go to Vancouver, go to the Aquarium; you'll be glad you did.
We also hopped off at the Granville Island Public Market stop, in what was formerly a sandbar in the river and is now a thriving public market and gathering area. There's a bakery there in the market---don't worry, when you see it, you'll know it----that has some of the most delectable breads and pastries on display, such that you'll buy something. I guarantee it. Great places for lunch and shopping and beer drinking too (lots of local microbrews in the area, such as Russells, who makes a killer dark Cream Ale).
There's also plenty of nightlife in Vancouver, with no shortage of good restaurants, bars, and joints various and sundry. And most have a great friendly vibe, sophisticated but not jaded or pretentious. We went to Uva Wine Bar, and were so taken with the small plates and apps we said to hell with a formal dinner, ordered cocktails and wines (good bartender there!) and small-plated ourselves to sated delight.
On another night we joined a friend at Joe Forte's, a familiar restaurant in Vancouver, and had a great seafood dinner. The local and fresh halibut was sublime; seafood at its absolute best. Great, friendly people too, while being extremely professional at the same time.
The food at Voya restaurant, a cutting-edge new place in a small boutique hotel on Melville, was remarkable too. But the highlight of the evening was the mixologist extraordinaire presiding at Voya, Jay Jones. He crafted some amazing, virtually revolutionary drinks behind his bar, and showed an amazing aptitude for putting together combinations of flavors---sometimes unexpected flavors---into totally delectable cocktails that were pleasing to all the senses. It's worth your time just to go to Voya to sit at the bar and sample their concoctions (even if Jay isn't there, his well trained staff are consummate mixologists too, and they won't let you down). Mind you, you won't be disappointed at dinner either, but Jay's creations should be your first experience there.
Another neat experience in Vancouver (says my wife, the inveterate shopper, but I agree with her) is the marvellous underground shopping mecca that stretches right through the very heart of the downtown underground city center. Bright, colorful, secure and safe, and no need to worry about rain or chilly breezes or hot sun.
All in all, Vancouver is a great city, and it looks like it's just getting better all the time. If I didn't live in God's Country already, I'd be thinking about moving there. Worse places to be.