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Butcher Block Surfaces

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Butcher Block Surfaces

by Jenise » Sun Nov 23, 2008 1:18 pm

Okay, next up for me to decide on is the butcher block surface (end grain maple) for my new ktichen's prep counter. It's going to be 6 feet wide by 30 inches deep, and when I went into the specialty lumber place yesterday to ask about getting something made in this size, they kind of went "HUH?" There are basically two companies they deal with for this kind of thing, and only one would make it this size, but curiously it's the one that sells finished (pretty looking but not really intended for chopping/heavy use, that is) vs. unfinished, butcher block. I left them with instructions to make phone calls on Monday.

I also asked about solid hard wood alternatives, maybe a slab with a live edge which I think would be totally cool. That met with stares, too.

Does anyone have any experience to offer in getting something like this custom-made?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by John Tomasso » Sun Nov 23, 2008 1:34 pm

contact a restaurant supply place - they do this all the time.
John Boos is the mfg of note.
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Jenise » Sun Nov 23, 2008 2:52 pm

John Tomasso wrote:contact a restaurant supply place - they do this all the time.
John Boos is the mfg of note.


Great idea, thanks!
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by ChefJCarey » Sun Nov 23, 2008 5:17 pm

A local carpenter made me one exactly that size in Memphis. Only it had a maple top. Check around. He also made me two rough redwood tables of the same dimensions for my cellar.
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Christina Georgina » Sun Nov 23, 2008 7:08 pm

I looked at a Scandanavian company that did exactly what you are asking -many choices of wood. I will try to find the info in my old kitchen file. I may have trashed that info when we moved in and I can't recall the name off the top of my head.
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Christina Georgina » Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:49 pm

Jenise, the companys name is Spekva. The had a distributor in Madison that had several custom countertops and butcher blocks. They were outstanding. Perhaps they have an outlet close to you.
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Jenise » Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:29 pm

Christina Georgina wrote:Jenise, the companys name is Spekva. The had a distributor in Madison that had several custom countertops and butcher blocks. They were outstanding. Perhaps they have an outlet close to you.


I'll look into that immediately--thank you!
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Jenise » Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:50 pm

Wow, that Spekva is gorgeous stuff. Not sure I can afford it (I can buy the product I need from John Boos for about $300), but I'll look into it. And I fell in total love with the Zebrana. Like when I walked into the specialty woods store on Saturday and fell in love with Tigerwood flooring, I'm now ready to rip out everything I've already got so I can have THAT. Not really, but the sense of total lust is momentarily about that strong. :)

Here's a link if anyone's curious:

http://www.crowncustom.com/
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Christina Georgina » Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:59 pm

Jenise, they do amazing things with that beautiful wood including moveable blocks that slide onto counter lips - extremely functional. Don't think you can beat the $$ for the Boos
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Bill Spohn » Mon Nov 24, 2008 2:40 pm

I'd opt for utility over appearance - some of the nicest looking woods don't stand up to actual use very well. Maple should be fine and is the most popular, although we could have a whole thread pitting the advocates of sugar maple against other maples.

The other thing to consider is to have the butcher block surface made thicker than the surrounding counter, because at some point you will probably manage to wear away the surface enough that you want to have it planed/sanded level again, and if it isn't thick enough, the only way to do it is to remove it from the counter and glue on an underlay to raise it up.

So you went for the wood floors. Good choice - a glass has at least a chance of living when it attempts to commit suicide by diving out of your hand or off the counter. With the popular tile fllors it is a definite goner (plus I prfer the softer surface for standing on for long periods).

Tell me, although I know you aren't a big pastry fan, are you going for the obligatory (for high end kitchens) chilled marble pastry surface?
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Jenise » Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:45 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:I'd opt for utility over appearance - some of the nicest looking woods don't stand up to actual use very well. Maple should be fine and is the most popular, although we could have a whole thread pitting the advocates of sugar maple against other maples.


I agree, and in fact that was my first instruction to my architect: "For me function trumps all other considerations, every time." Of course, that hasn't stopped him from coming up with too many foofoo ideas, but it remains my guiding principal however distracted I get by the wood equivalent of a Clive Owen (lust lust).
The other thing to consider is to have the butcher block surface made thicker than the surrounding counter, because at some point you will probably manage to wear away the surface enough that you want to have it planed/sanded level again, and if it isn't thick enough, the only way to do it is to remove it from the counter and glue on an underlay to raise it up.


Good caution. But if I can do the Boos as cheaply as I think I can, it may end up being fairly simple to eventually just plan on replacing the block ten years out, say. I would worry about having an uneven surface (since there will be some other kind of counter top on either side) so that something not set down just right (like my wine glass--ahem) tips over.

So you went for the wood floors.


Tile was actually never a consideration---too cold, too hard, too noise-reflective. What kind of wood (or cork) has been the tough one. And that's probably solved as of today since what it comes down to is that I only ended up with about one product that fit my color and anti-reflection needs.

Tell me, although I know you aren't a big pastry fan, are you going for the obligatory (for high end kitchens) chilled marble pastry surface?


Heck no! There is actually a peninsula that will be stone-surfaced for rolling out pastry when that activity is called for and for plating and staging dirty dishes at other times during meal prep, but specially chilled? Gosh no, that's too anal for me. And it's not like this is Palm Springs!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Bill Spohn » Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:59 pm

Jenise wrote:
The other thing to consider is to have the butcher block surface made thicker than the surrounding counter, because at some point you will probably manage to wear away the surface enough that you want to have it planed/sanded level again, and if it isn't thick enough, the only way to do it is to remove it from the counter and glue on an underlay to raise it up.


Good caution. But if I can do the Boos as cheaply as I think I can, it may end up being fairly simple to eventually just plan on replacing the block ten years out, say. I would worry about having an uneven surface (since there will be some other kind of counter top on either side) so that something not set down just right (like my wine glass--ahem) tips over.



Yes, but the other point in having the cutting surface stand 1/4 - 3/8" proud of the surrounding counter is that you are much less likely to ever touch the counter with a knife edge, and you can use the entire cutting area without fear of carving your initials on something you rather not have scarred.
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Jenise » Tue Nov 25, 2008 12:14 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:Yes, but the other point in having the cutting surface stand 1/4 - 3/8" proud of the surrounding counter is that you are much less likely to ever touch the counter with a knife edge, and you can use the entire cutting area without fear of carving your initials on something you rather not have scarred.


Actually, that's the point of installing wine that's six feet wide, though now that you've put the idea in my head I may have to indulge my inner vandal and do some carving!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Bill Spohn » Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:13 pm

Jenise wrote:Six foot wide wine?? Freudian slip? [/quote}

Yeah, kind of like this one:

said Bill Spohn:
With the cutting board standing out a tad, you don't need anything huge and can always fix the sirface easily.


I appreciate that you can barely contain your respect for me, but Her Ladyship would be a bit more fitting. :)

I like what your friend did--very sensible if your cutting board's a manageable size.
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Jenise » Tue Nov 25, 2008 2:24 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:
Jenise wrote:Six foot wide wine?? Freudian slip? [/quote}

Yeah, kind of like this one:

said Bill Spohn:
With the cutting board standing out a tad, you don't need anything huge and can always fix the sirface easily.


I appreciate that you can barely contain your respect for me, but Her Ladyship would be a bit more fitting. :)

I like what your friend did--very sensible if your cutting board's a manageable size.


OH S#IT! I did it again--clicked Edit instead of Quote. I'm so sorry!
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Re: Butcher Block Surfaces

by Bill Spohn » Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:02 pm

Jenise wrote:OH S#IT! I did it again--clicked Edit instead of Quote. I'm so sorry!


Stop that!!

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