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RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

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RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Jenise » Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:53 pm

While hanging around a car dealership yesterday waiting on an oil change, I stumbled over a copy of New Mexico Magazine and a recipe that looked a lot more tantalizing than it's boring given name, "Ground Lamb Pinwheel". from Southwest chef and author of Grilling & Smoking for the Home Chef, Steve Collins, jumped out at me. First off, it sounded pretty darned tasty and unlike anything I've made lately. Secondly, it was an opportunity to apply cedar plank grilling to something it wouldn't have occurred to me to cook that way (in fact, little occurs to me to cook that way, the pile of cedar planks I started the summer with went all summer undisturbed), and third, I'm long on goat cheese and green chiles right now--all I had to buy was some lamb.

The basic idea: 1.5 lbs of ground lamb and one half pound of ground beef are mixed and flattened into a half inch thick base onto which a mixture of crumbled goat cheese, roasted green chiles, and some aromatics are spread then the whole is rolled into a pinwheel, patted with a dry rub and cedar-plank grilled for about 40 minutes. (Bob Henrick, are you paying attention?) A dry rub blend of southwestern spices is applied to the meat layer before and after rolling.

I did not make the recipe as specified. I used half and half lamb and turkey thigh. It was either that or use ALL lamb, which on reflection I wish I'd done, or buy more meat than I needed as I was shopping at our beloved local Food Co-op where great organic meats come in one pound packages. Additionally, I mixed the entire dry rub into the meat mix for a more permeated flavor, and used smoked Spanish paprika cut with a little garlic salt for the outer rub. I used shallots instead of the onion/garlic called for, and added lightly toasted pine nuts to the meat mix. And one more change: he used 4 ounces of feta, I used 6 ounces of chevre. If I were to do it again, I'd use use 100% ground lamb, but otherwise would not back off of any of my modifications. The extra cheese enabled a nice core of cheese in the center of the loaf, the pine nuts added texture and flavor, and the meat was well-seasoned. With all due respect to the source, however, I'll post his recipe as written.

GROUND LAMB PINWHEEL (Southwestern Cedar-Plank Grilled Lamb, Goat Cheese and Green chile Loaf with Cilantro-Pecan Pesto)

The Rub:

1 tblsp sea salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground chipotle or other chile (I used medium-hot red chimayo--thanks again, Larry)
1 tblsp dried oregano

The meat:

1 1/2 lbs ground lamb
1/2 lb ground beef

Green Chile Goat Cheese filling:

1 tblsp olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 cup freshly roasted green chiles, diced (about three poblanos)
1/2 c feta cheese, crumbled

Two hours before, put a cedar plank in a sink or tub filled with water. Apply a weight (I used a coffee cup filled with water) to hold it there until needed.

Mix meat. Mix rub ingredients. Mix filling.

On a length of cling film about one foot long, press the meat mixture into a rectangle 1/2 inch thick and roughly about 12" x 6". Season to taste with the rub, reserving some for an outer coating.

Saute onion and garlic in olive oil until soft, about five minutes. Add to cheese and green chile mixture, and spread about 1/4 inch thick over the meat, leaving the bottom two inches (lengthwise) naked for a clean seam.

Lifting the meat with the cling film, roll the meat lengthwise toward the naked strip.

Place the meat roll seam side down on the wet plank. Apply final rub and place plank in center of the grill and close the cover. Roast for 35-40 minutes (at around 350 if you're using gas). The plank may become charred but shouldn't catch fire.

I made a green chile-tomatillo-lime-cilantro salsa to go with my dish, but here's a condiment Steve Collins recommends:


Cilantro Pecan Pesto

2 cups roasted green chiles, diced
1/2 c toasted pecans, chopped
1/4 c grated parmesan or manchego
1/4 c olive oil
1/2 c fresh cilantro

Place all ingredients in a food processor and pulse to a coarse paste.
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by ChefJCarey » Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:31 pm

I would venture that moths are not a big problem with this dish.
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Mike Filigenzi » Fri Nov 07, 2008 12:00 am

Very interesting, Jenise! We have a couple of cedar planks that some friends left for us. Since my wife won't eat salmon, I hadn't really gotten around to figuring out what to do with them. Never would have thought of something like this.
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Jenise » Fri Nov 07, 2008 1:58 am

Mike Filigenzi wrote:Very interesting, Jenise! We have a couple of cedar planks that some friends left for us. Since my wife won't eat salmon, I hadn't really gotten around to figuring out what to do with them. Never would have thought of something like this.


Me neither, which is why I had to try it. Speaking of unusual plank uses, a restaurant in Vancouver once served us cedar planked fresh pears (underripe) which they served with the cheese course. If you'd told me beforehand that I'd have been mad about them, I'd have called you a nut. But I loved them!--brilliant pairing with cheese, particularly blues.
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Carrie L. » Fri Nov 07, 2008 2:03 pm

What? No pictures? It sounds like it would be as attractive as it would be tasty. Did you serve as a main course?
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Jenise » Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:50 pm

Carrie L. wrote:What? No pictures? It sounds like it would be as attractive as it would be tasty. Did you serve as a main course?


Oops--sorry! I just haven't loaded up the pix yet, been kind of busy. Yes it was attractive, and yes I served it as a main course over a saute of leftover cooked kashi with cubes of eggplant, corn tortilla strips and fresh oregano leaves which continues the east-west fusion of Southwest/Middle Eastern flavors in the lamb loaf. For wine, I served a 98 Terre Rouge Syrah from California. It all went together fabulously well.
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Bob Henrick » Fri Nov 07, 2008 7:29 pm

Jenise wrote:While hanging around a car dealership yesterday waiting on an oil change,

The basic idea: 1.5 lbs of ground lamb and one half pound of ground beef are mixed and flattened into a half inch thick base onto which a mixture of crumbled goat cheese, roasted green chiles, and some aromatics are spread then the whole is rolled into a pinwheel, patted with a dry rub and cedar-plank grilled for about 40 minutes. (Bob Henrick, are you paying attention?) A dry rub blend of southwestern spices is applied to the meat layer before and after rolling.

GROUND LAMB PINWHEEL (Southwestern Cedar-Plank Grilled Lamb, Goat Cheese and Green chile Loaf with Cilantro-Pecan Pesto)

The Rub:

1 tblsp sea salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground chipotle or other chile (I used medium-hot red chimayo--thanks again, Larry)
1 tblsp dried oregano

Two hours before, put a cedar plank in a sink or tub filled with water. Apply a weight (I used a coffee cup filled with water) to hold it there until needed.

On a length of cling film about one foot long, press the meat mixture into a rectangle 1/2 inch thick and roughly about 12" x 6". Season to taste with the rub, reserving some for an outer coating.


I am paying attention Jenise, and A couple things I might would have changed or things I do differently. I have never used a cedar plank so am not sure what desirable flavor it might impart to lamb, so I might omit the plank. I always use waxed paper for rolling out raw meat to any shape desired including sausage patties, or burgers for that matter. I like the chevre and green chile treatment, as well as the red chile powder (probably ripe Big Jims). the red chile give so many dishes a special kick in flavor and aroma. I rather like Chef Joesph's dry rub, but do change it to include the ground red Hatch NM chile instead of ground cayenne. I have decided that I could make myself dine at your table anytime! :-)
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Jenise » Fri Nov 07, 2008 8:41 pm

Bob Henrick wrote: I have never used a cedar plank so am not sure what desirable flavor it might impart to lamb, so I might omit the plank.


Actually, that's exactly why you SHOULD try it sometime. It adds a really lovely smoke flavor. It was great with the lamb, better and more obvious than I expected.

I always use waxed paper for rolling out raw meat to any shape desired including sausage patties, or burgers for that matter.

I'm sure waxed paper works fine as long as you don't leave the meat on it for long before rolling up--the cling film allows you to lift the meat to get the roll going where wax paper tears quite easily when in contact with moisture.

I rather like Chef Joesph's dry rub, but do change it to include the ground red Hatch NM chile instead of ground cayenne. I have decided that I could make myself dine at your table anytime! :-)


I understand your allegiance, but would caution against thinking in terms of all dry rubs being equal. The one on this loaf was looking for the heavy flavor of cumin, chile and oregano for that wholly Southwestern flair. And, I make one with ginger, garlic and white pepper to go on an Asian style meat loaf, and another with cumin, cinnamon, mint and ground sesame for lamb in a Middle Eastern mode. Point is, good as Chef's rub is, just because it goes by the same name doesn't mean it's interchangeable with others exclusive of purpose.

And thanks for your decision about my cooking. It's taken me years to get on your good side. :D
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Bob Henrick » Fri Nov 07, 2008 9:25 pm

Jenise wrote:Actually, that's exactly why you SHOULD try it sometime. It adds a really lovely smoke flavor. It was great with the lamb, better and more obvious than I expected.


Actually I do own a cedar plank, and shall try it sometime with something besides salmon.


I'm sure waxed paper works fine as long as you don't leave the meat on it for long before rolling up--the cling film allows you to lift the meat to get the roll going where wax paper tears quite easily when in contact with moisture.


I haven't had a problem using wax paper, and do burgers and breakfast patties leaving them on the waxed paper in the freezer which of course make it easy to separate 1 or 2 for thawing.

I understand your allegiance, but would caution against thinking in terms of all dry rubs being equal. The one on this loaf was looking for the heavy flavor of cumin, chile and oregano for that wholly Southwestern flair. And, I make one with ginger, garlic and white pepper to go on an Asian style meat loaf, and another with cumin, cinnamon, mint and ground sesame for lamb in a Middle Eastern mode. Point is, good as Chef's rub is, just because it goes by the same name doesn't mean it's interchangeable with others exclusive of purpose.


Honestly I have about 4 different rubs I use, including Emeril's which includes red pepper flakes instead of ground peppers. If I use a recipe for rubs, I almost always double the cumin because I like that smoky flavor.

And thanks for your decision about my cooking. It's taken me years to get on your good side. :D


Now what is that smilie that is supposed to denote a curmudgeon? Truth Jenise, while I have grouched at you once or twice over the years, I always admired you from afar! :oops:
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Jenise » Sun Nov 09, 2008 5:03 pm

Bob Henrick wrote:I haven't had a problem using wax paper, and do burgers and breakfast patties leaving them on the waxed paper in the freezer which of course make it easy to separate 1 or 2 for thawing.


Yes, that works well, which has a lot to do with the freezing. It's moisture at room temp for long periods that weakens the paper.

Now what is that smilie that is supposed to denote a curmudgeon? Truth Jenise, while I have grouched at you once or twice over the years, I always admired you from afar! :oops:


Well, that's good to hear. Now, here, you may admire the lamb loaf (finally loaded up the pictures)--I let the plank double as a cutting board and served it at table:

DSC03806.JPG
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Bob Henrick » Sun Nov 09, 2008 9:54 pm

Jenise wrote:Yes, that works well, which has a lot to do with the freezing. It's moisture at room temp for long periods that weakens the paper.

Now what is that smilie that is supposed to denote a curmudgeon? Truth Jenise, while I have grouched at you once or twice over the years, I always admired you from afar! :oops:


Well, that's good to hear. Now, here, you may admire the lamb loaf (finally loaded up the pictures)--I let the plank double as a cutting board and served it at table:

DSC03806.JPG


Damn, that looks good Jenise. And, the plank looks like it might be reusable too. I have quite a lot of lamb in my freezer and there is always ground chuck available. I really need to do this, and soon!
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Jenise » Mon Nov 10, 2008 9:24 am

Bob, I don't think you'd want to reuse it. I'll bet the bottom was pretty burned and it would more easily catch fire next time.
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Re: RCP: Southwestern Lamb/Chevre/Green Chile Loaf on cedar

by Bob Henrick » Mon Nov 10, 2008 12:19 pm

Jenise wrote:Bob, I don't think you'd want to reuse it. I'll bet the bottom was pretty burned and it would more easily catch fire next time.


Going by the above, I am betting that the plank was exposed to open flame. I would likely do it on my grill in an indirect method. The wood would get hot enough to give off some flavor, but not to a point of charring. Of course I could be mistaken and experimenting will tell.
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