Many years ago, I ran across an amazing artist who does fantastic land pieces. I loved everything about his work... the scope, the method, the impermanence. His name is Jim Denevan. He's based in Santa Cruz, California.
What I didn't know at the time, but have since learned, is that Jim is also a chef. He was the chef at Gabriella Café (Santa Cruz) who instituted Farmer Dinners there. He would invite local farmers, foragers, and artisanal producers in and create special dinners from their products. The producers would dine along with the paying guests, thus allowing each end of the chain - the farm and the table - to interact with the other, the net result being that the diners gained a greater appreciation of where food comes from, and the producers had a new understanding and involvement with how their food is used creatively to nourish and nurture the final consumer.
What a great concept!
But, as Jim says, "It dawned on me that while Farmer Dinners were good, Farm Dinners would be better." And so began, in 1999, what has turned into a passionate undertaking: the roving Farm Dinners put on by Jim's organization, "Outstanding in the Field."
Jim and a couple associates travel the United States from June to about October, timing it so that they have a perpetual harvest season. They start in California, move up and across Canada and the Midwest, go through the Northeast, and finally across the South before making their way home to Santa Cruz.
At each stop they work with a local farm, vineyard, or artisanal producer to create perfectly local and seasonal dinners. For 80.
The producer takes the participating diners on a tour of the operation, explaining things, answering questions. They are then shown to an 80 foot long white-linen-covered table set up right in the fields or vineyards. (Photos on his website, above.) The diners bring their own plate. Jim comments that the variety of dinnerware is something that really brings home to everyone the diversity of the community and how the parts all need to be there for it to work.
Jim has just published a book entitiled Outstanding in the Field: a farm to table cookbook. The copy I pre-ordered in January arrived yesterday.
It is a beautifully produced book. Hardcover, gorgeous photos - of both the food and the locations of the dinners, with a nice mix of story and recipes. Each recipe includes a small prefacing note, sometimes about a particular dinner where it was made, and sometimes just about the recipe itself. Just glancing through it last night, I have already found several things I can't wait to try.
A true celebration of the idea of local and seasonal, the mostly-simple recipes range from Wilted Dandelion Salad with Pancetta and Poached Egg to Smoky Sturgeon and Potato Ravioli, from Blueberry Granita to Pickled Wild Mushrooms, from Caramelized Carrot Salad to Upside Down Fresh Fig Cake.
Jim gives substitutions when it won't change the spirit of the dish, because not everything is available everywhere. However, sometimes he doesn't, because as he states, "The salad of Santa Rosa Plums, Red Cabbage, Purslane, and Sunflower Petals, for example, really cannot be made with anything besides purslane and sunflower petals, so it is definitely a height-of-summer dish."
Sprinkled throughout the book are several one and two page spreads about a particular producer, or dinner, or larger topic such as "CSAs" or "Wineries Across America." Jim manages to be both interesting and informative without much preachiness creeping in. And that is indeed rare among those dedicated to the local food movement.
Note: ordering from the title link above will result in a minuscule donation to Wine Lovers Page.