I've been enjoying the new monthly article on food science by Andreas Viestad in the "Washington Post"; here's an interesting extract:
I have known This for 10 years, and much of what I know about food science he has taught me (in addition to the invaluable research done by McGee in his classic book "On Food and Cooking"). Every time I visit This in his Paris lab, he has dozens of inventions to present. With a contagious, almost childish enthusiasm, he tells me about a new classification system he is working on, or a recent discovery that a nearly forgotten claim made in a 17th-century cookbook is indeed true, or in fact wrong.
And whenever I can, I taste some of the results of his findings at the restaurant I consider the greatest in the world, that of Pierre Gagnaire, a longtime collaborator of This's. A while back we discussed one of the best things I have had at Gagnaire's Paris restaurant: a wonderfully light and airy foie gras dish that can be made similarly with Roquefort cheese, butter or chocolate. The chocolate dish -- named Chocolate "Chantilly" -- is my favorite, a two-ingredient chocolate mousse.
When This described the principle behind it, he made the best explanation I have heard of the relationship between science and cooking: that cooking can benefit from science but at the same time should not attempt to be science.
Chocolate "Chantilly" in its simplest form is made from chocolate and water. The cook melts chocolate over a warm-water bath, mixes water in, places the bowl over an ice bath and then whisks energetically until the mixture firms up. The result is remarkable: as ethereal as a mousse, but with nothing to mask the flavor of the chocolate. If the mixture is too thick and becomes grainy, it can be reheated and more water added. If it is too thin and refuses to firm up, it can be reheated and more chocolate added. When you are given an infinite number of chances, it is hard to fail.
Better still, this is something that can be done with most fatty substances. Imagine whipped butter with a veal stock and red wine reduction floating like a cloud on top of your steak. It is a brilliant culinary invention with an almost infinite number of possibilities. However, as This pointed out, it is not exactly science.
"From a scientific point of view it is nothing, a mere detail," he said. "But Pierre tells me it is one of the most useful things I have ever come up with."
Chocolate "Chantilly"
The Washington Post, February 13, 2008
* • Course: Dessert
* • Features: Fast
Summary:
The precise ratio of water to chocolate depends on what kind of chocolate you use, the temperature of the ice water bath and, to a lesser degree, the temperature in the room. As always, when you are trying out a new recipe and a new technique, something may go wrong. But there are an unlimited number of chances to perfect this recipe; add more water or chocolate to adjust the viscosity. For a thick consistency, use the minimum amount of water called for. But be aware that the time between a lovely, whipped-cream texture and a rather grainy one is short. If you want to experiment, use the maximum amount of water, but be prepared to add more chocolate if the chantilly refuses to firm up.
The "chantilly" (not made with whipped cream, as traditional chantillys are) can be enhanced with the addition of a flavored liquid, such as orange juice or orange liqueur, lapsang souchong tea or malt whisky. But the amount of water must be reduced accordingly. It is also nice to flavor the chocolate with spices such as vanilla, anise, chili powder or fennel pollen.
Use a chocolate that is between 60 and 70 percent cocoa. Because the chocolate flavor is intense, a bit of whipped cream and a few passion fruit seeds provide perfect complements.
The chantilly can be made a few hours in advance and will firm up slightly, whether refrigerated or at room temperature. For best results, reheat in the double-boiler/bowl method described below and whisk to the desired consistency just before serving.
4 servings
Ingredients:
* • 8 ounces dark (bittersweet) chocolate, with a minimum 55 percent cocoa, and preferably between 60 and 65 percent, finely chopped (may use one 8.8-ounce bar, such as Valrhona 62%)
* • 1/3 to 1 cup water (may substitute other liquid, such as fruit juice)
* • 2/3 cup heavy cream, whipped with 2 tablespoons sugar or to taste (optional)
* • Seeds from 4 passion fruit (optional)
Directions:
Combine the chocolate and water in a medium stainless-steel mixing bowl.
Fill a saucepan (just large enough to cradle the bottom of the mixing bowl) with ice cubes and water. Set aside.
Heat some water in a separate saucepan (just large enough to cradle the bottom of the mixing bowl) over medium heat. Remove it from the heat and place the bowl over the saucepan; stir just until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is shiny and smooth, with the water fully integrated.
Seat the bowl atop the ice water-bath saucepan; use a large whisk and start whisking vigorously. For the first couple of minutes not much will happen, and there will be a viscous, runny mixture. Then, often quite quickly, the chocolate will start to firm up to whipped-cream consistency (within 4 to 5 minutes); it may be best to remove it from the cold bath while the mixture is still a little loose and continue whisking until thick and creamy. If it will not firm up, return it to the ice-water bath.
If the mixture sets and becomes grainy (closer to a ganache), re-position the bowl atop the heated water for a few seconds to warm the mixture, then whisk to the desired consistency.
To serve, divide among individual dishes and top with a dollop of whipped cream and passion fruit seeds, if desired.
Recipe Source:
From cookbook author and Gastronomer Andreas Viestad.
276 calories, 20g fat, 12g saturated fat, n/a cholesterol, 4mg sodium, 32g carbohydrates, 4g dietary fiber, 4g protein.
Tested by Geneva Collins for The Washington Post.
E-mail the Food Section at food@washpost.com with recipe questions.