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Guadalajara

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Hoke

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Guadalajara

by Hoke » Fri Oct 05, 2007 2:45 pm

Just returned from a lightning trip to Guadalajara and Amatitan (visiting a tequlia house), and was struck once again by the difference between what NorteAmericanos think is "Mexican food" and what the reality is....the reality being an interesting and complex mixture of cuisines that varies greatly from state to state and resembles very little the "Tex-Mex" atrocities we see up here in the U. S. of A.

I know this is an old refrain tho those who have gone beyond the border towns or gotten out of the all-inclusive resorts along the coasts---you know what I mean: the poor schlubs who go to Cancun, stay drunk for three days on sweet, watered-down drinks and mediocre to terrible food, never get outside the hotel or the Hard Rock Cafe, and come back thinking "I've been to Mexico!"

Sorry. No. You haven't.

We went to dinner at a lovely sprawling palapa-ish place called Santo Coyote, and had a wonderful time. Part of the wonderful time may have been the several Tequila Herradura Blancos followed by Sangrita chasers (the absolute best way to drink good tequila there is). Sangrita, not sangria; it's a chaser for straight tequila composed of orange juice, lime juice, tomato juice and a touch of heat from jalapenos. There are as many recipes as there are bars, it seems. Most use a splash of Worcestershire; some just use a hot sauce like Tapatio or Cholula. Part of the fun is checking out the different house styles of Sangrita.

Oh, and a shot of Anejo for dessert.

We started with some succulent Cabrito, slow spit roasted, tender inside and crispy outside. The other guys laced this with fiery hot freshly-made-at-the-table salsa, which I had to be careful with because it was scorching. Instead I used the creamy/spicy guacamole.

One of our party had Molcajete, where (in this case) bits of beef tenderloin and prawns were mixed in a stew-like concoction and put in super-heated lava rock bowls and served up, literally, boiling hot. Great presentation, and what I tasted was exceptionally good.

Although they had several intriguing cuts of beef with interesting preparations, I couldn't resist the Pork Shanks, slooooooooow cooked to perfection. And another guy's sea bass and shrimp in a garlic-parsley sauce was great as well.

Scrambled eggs with machaca (Mexican style dried shredded beef) and fritatta with olives and gruyere for breakfast (with a small tortilla shell alongside filled with refritos negro being the only time I saw the standard beans and corn combo the whole trip) were standard fair for breakfast. We also had cactus leaves.

And for the first time I tasted lima---neither lemon nor lime (which to the Mexicans are both limon, either limon amarillo or limon verde), it's a sorta-lime-looking small fruit with a prominent navel. Much, much milder and sweeter than lime, it tastes like a low-acid lime crossed with a fresh melon. Good breakfast juice.

Our Jaliscan hosts happily discussed the many different cuisines of Mexico and agreed that whenever they visit the U.S. and are taken (inevitably) to whatever the local Mexican restaurant is, they often (usually) get the dreaded Tex-Mex.

One guy says he travels all over the world and people want to feed him Mexican food that isn't Mexican. :D And, for the record, Guadalajara is well supplied with Chinese, Vietnamese, Japanese/sushi, French, and tons of Italian restaurants.
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Re: Guadalajara

by Howie Hart » Fri Oct 05, 2007 5:30 pm

Hoke, I've never been to Mexico. On the other hand, every time I order bacon and eggs in Canada I get the same bacon I'm used to over here. However, I have bought peameal bacon in Canadian meat markets, which for some reason I can't buy in the US. I can buy "Canadian bacon" here, but it's not the same thing. Another thing I like over there is the pork pies they sell in the bakeries. :P
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Re: Guadalajara

by Rahsaan » Sat Oct 06, 2007 6:51 pm

Mexico's a great place huh..

Too bad it's further away from SFO than one might think.
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Re: Guadalajara

by Hoke » Sat Oct 06, 2007 8:05 pm

Well, I didn't say it was a great place. Did I? I think it was pretty neat to go there and experience it, yeah, but Guadalajara wouldn't be on my A List if it weren't for the professional connection.

I most certainly enjoy other cultures and other places, always have; but there are so many places I haven't been to yet, or had enough of, or wrung the full pleasure from, that I would wish to do more than sample Jalisco.

Still, it's a pleasure to discover new places and new tastes and to have your expectations challenged and your view of the world stretched. Previous to this Guadalajara had been merely an airport changeover on my way to Manzanillo.
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Re: Guadalajara

by Rahsaan » Sat Oct 06, 2007 8:50 pm

Actually, I meant to say that Mexico is a great place in general, although not as close to the Bay Area as I initially thought when I moved here.

Anyway, I'm guessing you're on the road, so I'll probably see you before you read this.
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Re: Guadalajara

by Hoke » Sun Oct 07, 2007 1:21 pm

Rahsaan wrote:Actually, I meant to say that Mexico is a great place in general, although not as close to the Bay Area as I initially thought when I moved here.

Anyway, I'm guessing you're on the road, so I'll probably see you before you read this.


Oh, sure, I can agree with that! Mexico is a great place in general, with lots more facets to it than many people think.

And as I said last night, welcome back.
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mexican cuisine

by Howard » Sun Oct 07, 2007 8:55 pm

Oaxaca has some amazing food. Here are some details: http://www.wineloverspage.com/reports/oaxaca.phtml
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Re: mexican cuisine

by Robert J. » Sun Oct 07, 2007 10:05 pm

I love the interior food. Cochinita Pibil is one of my faves as is authentic Mole. I also love Tex-Mex but do know the difference between the two.

I can cook both fluently.

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Re: mexican cuisine

by Hoke » Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:18 am

Howard, I engaged our Mexican hosts (Jaliscans all) in a long discussion of Oaxacan cuisine. They'd agree with you, for sure.

A friend who owns a restaurant locally has a Oaxacan woman working for her---but she didn't realize the woman was a naturally born cook until she cooked a family-style meal for the restaurant workers one holiday.

After that, we've begged her to cook special Oaxacan feasts for us. Fairly simple food, not overly complicated, but wonderful spicing.

Yucatan cuisine is pretty great too. I vividly recall a Hog Snapper with echayote sauce on the coast, served with charred white corn...but I had to go well off the beaten tourista path with a local to find that.
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Re: mexican cuisine

by Hoke » Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:20 am

Robert J. wrote:I love the interior food. Cochinita Pibil is one of my faves as is authentic Mole. I also love Tex-Mex but do know the difference between the two.

I can cook both fluently.

rwj


Now authentic mole....in all its manifestations---is spectacular stuff. And I know neither of us is talking about the sweet chocolate crap out a jar, either.

A good mole takes a loooooooong time to make. It's complicated. And each one is individual.

Hmm, sounds like an Austin invite has been made????
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Re: mexican cuisine

by Robert J. » Mon Oct 08, 2007 6:03 pm

Hate hate hate the crap out of a jar, though there is one brand that has done in a pinch. But real mole is a day-long event and well worth the work. Hoke, c'mon down anytime. Just let me know and I will clear the docket. We will make mole and I will even indulge in a libation.

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Re: mexican cuisine

by Cynthia Wenslow » Mon Oct 08, 2007 6:21 pm

Hoke, you ought to go down to Austin during South By Southwest Music Fest in March. Most of the people I know are there then (including me this coming year). It'd be a blast!
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Re: mexican cuisine

by Hoke » Mon Oct 08, 2007 6:29 pm

Cynthia Wenslow wrote:Hoke, you ought to go down to Austin during South By Southwest Music Fest in March. Most of the people I know are there then (including me this coming year). It'd be a blast!


Sounds cool, Cyn. Trouble for me is I travel so damned much on business that when I'm not travelling on business it's hard to travel on my own volition, so I only do it a couple of times a year.

On the other hand, knowing that there's a great festival with great people, I might be able to arrange a tag-on for one of those business trips....

[I lived in Dallas and NorthEast Texas for about 13 years. While I enjoyed it, I wouldn't go back to Texas for anything. But if they made me go back, the Hill Country is the ONLY place I'd go back to! And don't worry: I promise not to tell anyone about how great Ruidoso and the foothills of the Sangre are, so no one will go and spoil the place.]
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Re: mexican cuisine

by Robert J. » Mon Oct 08, 2007 6:34 pm

I'm tellin' ya Hoke, SXSW could become SXSMole! Mole Fest '08!

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Re: mexican cuisine

by Howard » Mon Oct 08, 2007 10:00 pm

Regarding authentic mole -
My friend Anita tells me she had friends who had a room in their house (in Oaxaca) devoted solely to Mole making. Also, there are villages where there is a central building in which the village's mole is made by the elder women. When someone from the village gets married the entire town helps make the mole for the celebration.
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Re: mexican cuisine

by Robert J. » Mon Oct 08, 2007 10:12 pm

Yes. Mole is very special.

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