Great story, Hoke, thanks.
I agree that it's an old, old story -- I remember reading about manipulation of the olive oil trade during my college Latin I course many years ago. The article alludes to how a couple of Spanish emperors favored the oils from their home regions.
It appears, though, that the independent tasting panels have been eliminated, and the Italian government has taken more actions to weaken Italian quality oils.
I was struck by a couple of points: the contrast between approach of the expert tasters and the renegade oil importer -- a lesson there for some of the pretentious wine tasters I know.
And, even small producers, apparently can't be entirely sure that their workmen aren't adulterating their oil.
One big message to me: check oil for taste and don't pay too much. Even the adulterated oils may taste pretty darn good.