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Robbie Burns

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Jenise

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Re: Robbie Burns

by Jenise » Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:58 pm

Okay, so googled a consomme I watched Laura Calder make not long ago because I knew I'd find her recipe online. She used two egg whites for 6 cups of stock and cooked it for 45 minutes. Here's her method:

Bring the stock very slowly to the boil, stirring constantly. The egg mixture will congeal and form a "raft" on the top of the stock, collecting all the impurities from the stock. As soon as it begins to boil, stop stirring and turn the heat down to low. A hole will have formed on the top of the "raft". Make it slightly larger with a spoon, and then simmer the stock very gently for 45 minutes. Remove the saucepot from the heat and let stand 5 minutes.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Frank Deis

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Re: Robbie Burns

by Frank Deis » Fri Jan 27, 2012 4:43 pm

Well, it appears that you are right. And perhaps you can read between the lines -- I remember that I did this before, but was thwarted by the "underpowered" business. I didn't want to incur the Wrath of Louise by using too many eggs. I am making her sound awful, you have to understand the irony of describing her that way. She is the sweetest person, her good friend Lynne described her as "the only person I know who moves BACKWARDS in the box office line when she goes to the movies." Still, I know what bothers her, and using lots of eggs to clarify stock would bother her. Maybe I need to destroy the evidence and eat up those yolks -- I could make Yolks In Hell!?!

I am planning to post a picture of the stock once I get back home.
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Re: Robbie Burns

by Frank Deis » Fri Jan 27, 2012 8:40 pm

Thanks Jenise, I am finally feeling like I have a handle on this. One egg white per quart. 45 minutes.

I came home and looked at the stock -- it's completely gelled again, looks almost like lemon jello but not so perfectly clear. Still I think I have reached the point where it will do, no matter what.

My meat cubes are supposed to be Costco chicken breast meat. So I went to Costco -- they were out of rotisserie chickens, and I had to loiter near the chicken counter, with young mothers trying to entertain impatient kids. That was OK. The Mom I was standing near was switching between Russian and English which was kind of interesting to try and follow. Finally the chickens came out of the roaster and I grabbed two, a really big one and a normal one. (When I understand people speaking Russian I always feel like I should say something, but my active vocabulary is so miserable I can't think of anything appropriate that I can say. I tried to help out an old Russian lady in the eyeglass store once, and realized that everything I needed to tell her involved numbers and colors that I couldn't think of. :cry: )

When I got home I decided it was important to get the breast meat into the fridge. So I got my boning knife and slithered off the breasts and put them into a big plastic bag and stuck them in the refrigerator to wait until tomorrow. The chicken was still hot enough to burn my hands a little. THEN I decided that I probably also ought to refrigerate the thighs, or the legs and thighs. So I took those off the small chicken and stuck them in another plastic bag, and got one thigh off the monster bird. It was sitting on top of the stove, and my hands were covered with Schmaltz, when the phone rang. I turned to the sink to try and get my hands un-greased enough to pick up the receiver when I heard a loud PLOP!!! When I turned around 1) I noticed on the caller ID that it was another effing spammer and 2) I saw that about 10 square feet of linoleum, and the front of the oven and the front of the adjacent cabinet, were coated with a generous layer of hot chicken fat. Delightful. I got that about half way cleaned up and then stopped to eat a drumstick and drink some chardonnay. Ah. Life is semi-good. :?
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Jeff Grossman

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Re: Robbie Burns

by Jeff Grossman » Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:01 am

Five-second rule!!! :wink:
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Jenise

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Re: Robbie Burns

by Jenise » Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:14 pm

Frank Deis wrote:Thanks Jenise, I am finally feeling like I have a handle on this. One egg white per quart. 45 minutes.

I came home and looked at the stock -- it's completely gelled again, looks almost like lemon jello but not so perfectly clear. Still I think I have reached the point where it will do, no matter what.


Yes, at least one egg white per quart. And, I would take "almost like lemon jello" any day. :) Point is, this method typically achieves about 95-98% clarity. I once saw Thomas Keller or Charlie Trotter or someone of that caliber talking about how much effort they go to for that last 2-5%. Straining through cheese cloth THREE times was only part of it. I think you did well, at least once you embraced more eggs plus more time. Poor Louise. I promise, I'll never tell her. :)
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Robbie Burns

by Frank Deis » Sat Jan 28, 2012 4:35 pm

I told her, those yolks are pretty obvious. But I do like the idea of the Eggs in Hell with duck and quail eggs plus a couple of hen yolks, and maybe we can do that tomorrow.

This soup -- I had forgotten how artsy it was until I was carving the cubes of chicken breast and potato.

I have been letting the stock rest in the fridge, now warming it up. I am going to have to DECANT out of the pan, the sediments that are left have presumably settled to the bottom.

It's good to have another technique under my belt. When I read around online a lot of people added ground meat to the egg whites, that is good to bear in mind I think.
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Re: Robbie Burns

by Frank Deis » Sat Jan 28, 2012 6:08 pm

Here is a picture of my chicken stock -- this is before the addition of some canned broth and seasoning.

Now that it's seasoned -- it has a light texture, Keller said this was a light broth. I'm not sure that is perfect for cock-a-leekie but with all that gelatin it has a very long aftertaste. And I would say it DOES taste like it would cure your cold if you drank a mug or two. The clarity is just right, given that I basically want the diners to be able to see the bottom of their soup bowl. It's good enough to be a simulated dashi-kombu broth. If I try this again 3 years from now maybe I will choose a heartier recipe, maybe one with roasted chicken bones.

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Robin Garr

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Re: Robbie Burns

by Robin Garr » Sat Jan 28, 2012 6:26 pm

Frank Deis wrote:Here is a picture of my chicken stock

In a word, Frank, impressive. You put a lot of effort into it, and you've earned the right to be proud.
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Re: Robbie Burns

by Frank Deis » Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:19 pm

Thanks a lot Robin!! :D

I've got my tux on (still fits) and we are headed out the door...
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Jenise

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Re: Robbie Burn

by Jenise » Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:26 pm

Frank Deis wrote:I told her, those yolks are pretty obvious. But I do like the idea of the Eggs in Hell with duck and quail eggs plus a couple of hen yolks, and maybe we can do that tomorrow.

This soup -- I had forgotten how artsy it was until I was carving the cubes of chicken breast and potato.

I have been letting the stock rest in the fridge, now warming it up. I am going to have to DECANT out of the pan, the sediments that are left have presumably settled to the bottom.

It's good to have another technique under my belt. When I read around online a lot of people added ground meat to the egg whites, that is good to bear in mind I think.


Ground meat is def standard and more effective, but as my little terrine emergency proved, you can get along without it.
Congrats on the result--It's beautiful!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Robbie Burns

by Frank Deis » Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:15 am

Thanks Janise.

What a great party!!!

FWIW I got several compliments on the "delicious" broth, and I think everyone enjoyed the visual "pun"

There was a Piper and many songs, and the haggis tasted better than it ever has. ALso the neeps and tatties were wonderful (how can that be? Probably lots of butter)

And I met someone willing to send me free restriction enzymes and plasmids for my lab course...

Which was a completely unexpected benefit!
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