Gas cooktop questions

I have a 6 burner Blue Star. The 22,000 BTU is fantastic for wok cooking. The downsides -- even on the lowest BTU burner, simmer is not possible. I bought 2 large copper heat diffuser plates and it still is a bit too hot. The other downside is the waste of energy and very labor intensive to clean. Finally, I had to buy larger bottom cookware - the flames lick the sides of my old cookware.
I hate to be a broken record but my induction cooktop is so far superior in every way that at an opportune time I will replace the gas with all induction. The heat is instant - the control is instant and keeping it clean is a matter of a damp sponge. You can get wok induction. The heat efficiency is worth the extra cost.
If you can, go to an induction demo and try it

But wouldn't I have to buy all new cookware to go induction?

But wouldn't I have to buy all new cookware to go induction?

Robert, it depends on what you have now for cookware. Anything magnetic works, basically, so cast iron works, some (but not all) stainless steel alloys - you'd have to check. But copper and aluminum would be a no-go. I guess compared to the cost of a range, a few new pieces of cookware might not be that significant but you'd need to make that call. I have no experience with induction myself but by all accounts it offers the benefits of gas (responsiveness, primarily) with those of smooth top electric (ease of cleaning) and throws in high energy efficiency since by definition all energy goes to heating the pan, not your kitchen. Other than the cookware, though, the downside of induction can be price - not having entered the mainstream (yet, anyway) and pretty much purchased only by appliance junkies (with apologies to Christina ), induction equipment is targeted to the high-end market and priced accordingly.

As far as cookware-most manufacturers make induction compatible. I ony recently realized that my All Clad can be used on induction.

No apologies necessary. I went from a 1960's GE electric cooktop to what I now use. 40 years before a new model is bad for the economy! What I am hooked on is the energy effeciency and control that far exceeds gas. The induction hob on the island was to be a second work station for my husband. If there is a choice of using either cooktop we both invariably opt for induction. There is no advantage to gas.

As far as cookware-most manufacturers make induction compatible. I ony recently realized that my All Clad can be used on induction.

No apologies necessary. I went from a 1960's GE electric cooktop to what I now use. 40 years before a new model is bad for the economy! What I am hooked on is the energy effeciency and control that far exceeds gas. The induction hob on the island was to be a second work station for my husband. If there is a choice of using either cooktop we both invariably opt for induction. There is no advantage to gas.

Subtlety.

In Larry-speak, I'm deeply honored that I'm obviously residing in your gray matter and have been awarded a unit of measurement. I look forward to being in the next edition of the Handbook of Chemistry and Physics.

Sorry to tinkle on your Cheerios Larry, but apparently you are unfamiliar with Stuart Yaniger's somewhat famous wine rating system, the units of measure of which are the members of the cast of the Three Stooges.

You owe it to yourself to become familiar with the system, described here:

http://the-stupids.com/wp/tasting-note- ... ing-system

Woo-woo-woo! Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk! My 15 minutes of fame--all gone.... You can award me some Shemp points. The scary part is I'm going to have Cheerios for breakfast and I better have remembered to lock the doors last night.

I don't know if you'd consider this, but it's half the price of the Thermodor and includes the griddle.
Kenmore PRO 36 in. Gas Slide-In Cooktop

Sorry to tinkle on your Cheerios Larry, but apparently you are unfamiliar with Stuart Yaniger's somewhat famous wine rating system, the units of measure of which are the members of the cast of the Three Stooges.

I give this poast a triple Larry and a Curly Joe.

Mark Lipton

[Jenise]

I don't know if you'd consider this, but it's half the price of the Thermodor and includes the griddle.
Kenmore PRO 36 in. Gas Slide-In Cooktop

It would probably depend on the BTU's and who makes the cooktop for Sears. Last time I was in a Sears, we were hunting for BBQ's. They had models that from 30 feet away rivalled the Webbers of this world, but it didn't take five seconds at point-blank range to realize it was laughably cheaply made. Sure it cost less, but even then it was poor value. Doesn't mean the same would apply to other appliances, but I'd be leery.

It would probably depend on the BTU's and who makes the cooktop for Sears. Last time I was in a Sears, we were hunting for BBQ's. They had models that from 30 feet away rivalled the Webbers of this world, but it didn't take five seconds at point-blank range to realize it was laughably cheaply made. Sure it cost less, but even then it was poor value. Doesn't mean the same would apply to other appliances, but I'd be leery.

Here's a link to a review: http://products.howstuffworks.com/kenmore-36-inch-pro-slide-in-gas-cooktop-30503-review.htm.

One way in which Kenmore has been able to reduce the cost of 36-inch Pro is by spending less on the components that go into building the cooktop. Lighter gauge metal and less expensive parts make up the workings of the 30503. This is not to say that the cooktop is in any way an inferior product. It's just a less expensive version of a commercial-style cooktop and it's made from less expensive parts. While less durable than the pricier models, this 36-inch gas model is still a better quality cooktop than most conventionally styled residential units.

As you might expect, Kenmore's 36-inch Pro is not quite as precise as some of its more expensive counterparts. It doesn't offer the precision of a steady, extra low flame on every burner. What it does offer is the control of gas and the power of a 17,200 Btu high-output burner. At the low end of the spectrum, it's not particularly impressive. The 30503 can have a difficult time keeping a really low flame. The knobs also react a bit too quickly to be very precise. The Pro 30503 does, however, offer a low-output burner that maxes out at 5,000 Btu. This is the burner we'd choose to prepare our most delicate sauces and simmers. It's just that it doesn't offer quite the performance we find on the higher priced models.

What we really liked on the 36-inch Kenmore Pro are the sealed, easy-to-clean burners that this attractive looking cooktop has to offer. We're also impressed with the cast-iron grates and six-burner continuous cooking surface. Gourmet cooks can get really serious about preparing lots of stovetop delicacies thanks to the ease in which pots and pans can be moved around on this model.

The 30503 can have a difficult time keeping a really low flame. The knobs also react a bit too quickly to be very precise.

This touches on the problem I have with most "mainstream" gas burners: the metering of the gas output, especially at low flow rates, is uneven and often too hair-triggered. Yes, they have sealed burners and high BTU output, but I need the reliability of low heat just as much as I need the high heat.

Mark Lipton

[Robin Garr]

Ok, I'll ask...why would it be rarely used? Are they typically ripped out and replaced?

Bob Hower got it in one. It's sort of like collections of classic books on the tract mansion library shelves.

After doing more research, I am beginning to sway more toward induction. By doing so, I can eliminate the need for propane altogether (found out from an insurance claims adjuster I know that having propane in a rural house will make your premiums higher ). Since we are hoping to go solar, put in a geothermal heat pump, and either put in solar hot water or point-of-use water heaters, we anticipate low energy use all the way around. Plus, propane is much more expensive than natural gas around here (natural gas is not an option where our land is).

[Jenise]

Cool, Robert.

After doing more research, I am beginning to sway more toward induction. By doing so, I can eliminate the need for propane altogether (found out from an insurance claims adjuster I know that having propane in a rural house will make your premiums higher ). Since we are hoping to go solar, put in a geothermal heat pump, and either put in solar hot water or point-of-use water heaters, we anticipate low energy use all the way around. Plus, propane is much more expensive than natural gas around here (natural gas is not an option where our land is).

Robert I would agree 100% with induction in your situation. I might have gone with induction instead of gas if I wasn't already set up for natural gas. I heat with it, and my Holland grill is plumbed for it, and even Hot Mama has a natural gas burner for lighting the charcoal. Induction will be around 2x the initial cost of gas, plus one has to be certain the existing pots and pans will work on it. I don't think copper or copper bottomed cookware will work with induction as it is not magnetic. IIRC, cookware to be used on an induction cooking surface need to be able to hold a magnetic field. It must be what (I think) of or contain a ferrous material. Pure stainless cookware will basically not work on induction. Of course, you probably already know this. Here is a link that might be of interest to you. http://theinductionsite.com/

I have a stainless steel 5-burner gas Thermador stove top. Mine as been converted to use propane gas as I live in the country. I love my range top. I find that I very seldom need to use the 5th burner, but it is nice to have.

I guess insurance rules vary from state to state, because we don't pay any extra for propane in our rural area. We are insured with USAA.

After doing more research, I am beginning to sway more toward induction. By doing so, I can eliminate the need for propane altogether (found out from an insurance claims adjuster I know that having propane in a rural house will make your premiums higher ). Since we are hoping to go solar, put in a geothermal heat pump, and either put in solar hot water or point-of-use water heaters, we anticipate low energy use all the way around. Plus, propane is much more expensive than natural gas around here (natural gas is not an option where our land is).

That's the first I've ever heard of the propane vs. insurance thing. You can add California and Washington to the list of places where insurance companies don't care - I've never even been asked. And I wouldn't make your decision based on fuel cost. It's true that propane costs more than NG - typically about 2x for the same amount of energy - but the amount of energy most people use cooking (people who aren't crazy enough to install an AGA, that is) isn't much, far down the list after heating/cooling, hot water, refrigerator, clothes dryer. That's not to say induction wouldn't be an excellent choice, just that other factors are probably more important.

Pure stainless cookware will basically not work on induction.

Almost true, Bob Most stainless cookware won't work on induction because it's not magnetic and therefore not intended for induction. But some stainless alloys are magnetic and will work. All-Clad's stainless line, for example, is stainless inside and out (with the usual aluminum in between) but works with induction because they use a magnetic stainless alloy for the outside layer.

Pure stainless cookware will basically not work on induction.

Almost true, Bob Most stainless cookware won't work on induction because it's not magnetic and therefore not intended for induction. But some stainless alloys are magnetic and will work. All-Clad's stainless line, for example, is stainless inside and out (with the usual aluminum in between) but works with induction because they use a magnetic stainless alloy for the outside layer.

You are correct Mark, the outside layer of All Clad is a magnetizable (no nickel) stainless and because of that it will work. The outer layer is 18/0 stainless inste4ad of the more usual 18/8 or 18/10 therefore it will hold a magnetic charge.

I have a question for anyone who might know the answer. I purchased a nice set of 3 layer stainless from Sam's Club (their store brand). It is full three layer on the bottom and all sides. I really don't like using it for much though as it "sticks". So, my question (I suppose) is, does stainless require a seasoning like cast iron? if so, how do I do it? My daughter has All Clad and she says hers doesn't stick unless she burns something in it. Is the difference the fact that mine is 3 layers only, and Hers is a 5-6 layers in the bottom of the pot/pan?

Does stainless require a seasoning like cast iron?

I can answer that one, Bob. No, stainless does not require seasoning, in fact I don't believe you could if you wanted to. Unlike cast iron, stainless is not porous and any oil you add would be gone the next time you wash the pan. Beyond that, I can't help you. My experience with All Clad matches your daughter's - you really need to do something extreme before sticking becomes a problem. I can't imagine it could have anything to do with internal construction - your food has no way of "knowing" how the pan is put together. Plus, I believe my All Clad is only three layers. So I think you're left with either alloy or finish as an explanation. And I'd think the "finish" would change with wear and I've noticed no degradation over many years, so I guess that leaves alloy. I'll leave it to a metallurgist to go from there.

I can answer that one, Bob. No, stainless does not require seasoning, in fact I don't believe you could if you wanted to. Unlike cast iron, stainless is not porous and any oil you add would be gone the next time you wash the pan. Beyond that, I can't help you. My experience with All Clad matches your daughter's - you really need to do something extreme before sticking becomes a problem. I can't imagine it could have anything to do with internal construction - your food has no way of "knowing" how the pan is put together. Plus, I believe my All Clad is only three layers. So I think you're left with either alloy or finish as an explanation. And I'd think the "finish" would change with wear and I've noticed no degradation over many years, so I guess that leaves alloy. I'll leave it to a metallurgist to go from there.

TUVM Mark! I will now wait for input by a metallurgist !