Bourdain nails the Food Network

[Jenise]

He's guest blogging again on Ruhlman's site, wonderful stuff.

http://blog.ruhlman.com/2007/02/guest_blogging_.html

Thanks for the link. It is indeed sad that the channel has gone Hollywood.

Used to be I could put on the TV Food Network and just let it run. Just about everything taught me something. Now not so much. I don't think I've ever followed one recipe I've seen, but by watching their hands I've learned a lot about technique which has improved my cooking quite a bit.

Can't see how constructing a forty foot high cake and carring it through an obstacle course with or without it crashing to the floor has anything to do with cooking.

Everything thing has to be a reality show these days whether it is on Food Channel, HGTV, TLC, or any of your favority stations.

Great rant by Bourdain. Question is, can the real chefs get together and set up a real Food Network?


Mike

[Jenise]

Thanks for the link. It is indeed sad that the channel has gone Hollywood.

Yeah, and he's just decrying what we've all decried here many times, but he says it so much better than we do. Too, I like that he basically condemns the Flays etc for being willing to debase themselves in halfassed programming to fill their restaurants.

The comments from readers are pretty entertaining too.

And Mike, yeah about a food network for the more serious cooks. Did you see the defense (in the comments section) from the honcho at the Network? He tries to act like the criticism is unfounded, ignoring Tony's base observation that "widely appealing" is also widely stupid.

And Mike, yeah about a food network for the more serious cooks. Did you see the defense (in the comments section) from the honcho at the Network? He tries to act like the criticism is unfounded, ignoring Tony's base observation that "widely appealing" is also widely stupid.

I did see that comment by him. I thought it was exactly what one would expect from someone in his position. The key comment was:

Our only criteria for chefs is that they have the kind of personality and food expertise that engage broad audiences and bring the world of food to life.

I suppose that this is appropriate for a network honcho, but those of us who really like to cook and eat are far less interested in having the world of food "brought to life" for us than we are in actually learning something from a true expert.

Mike

The problem is... mediocrity sells. the Food Network was setup as a niche network for people who love and enjoy food. A novel idea, but it only goes so far and you need to fill up programming. Naturally you take your ratings numbers and see what works... what "works" [i.e., what gets the best ratings] is usually the quirky host with the catch-phrase like a Rachel Ray or a Cajun Chef or somesuch.

Content takes a backseat to entertainment value. It's just how it goes.

Yeah. My local PBS TV station has just added a so-called reality show to the lineup. The idea that learning is out and entertainment is in is not new, but it certainly has become pervasive.

On the next PBS pledge drive...I'm out.

And soon, the name of that so-called cooking channel will be changed to the Fool Channel.

[Jenise]

Thomas, get HD. Then you get a new PBS channel called Create. America's Test Kitchen, Jacques Pepin, Ming Tsai, Lidia...they're all there.

Thomas, get HD. Then you get a new PBS channel called Create. America's Test Kitchen, Jacques Pepin, Ming Tsai, Lidia...they're all there.

We have TimeWarner, I don't think it is HD, and I know I have seen Lidia on some channel, maybe Fine Living. Also, America's Test Kitchen if that is the Cooks Illustrated show. So those two shows are available, others may be as well.

Thomas, get HD. Then you get a new PBS channel called Create. America's Test Kitchen, Jacques Pepin, Ming Tsai, Lidia...they're all there.

We have TimeWarner, I don't think it is HD, and I know I have seen Lidia on some channel, maybe Fine Living. Also, America's Test Kitchen if that is the Cooks Illustrated show. So those two shows are available, others may be as well.

It's a dish here, and whatever the local dishnet can get to offer...too rural for cable to bother to come this way. If it weren't for DSL, I'd still be on dial up!

I like Tony Bourdain's humor and sarcastic wit. He makes me laugh.

But I've only seen him cook one thing (a lamb stew when they were stuck in Lebanon). In many ways, he is as guilty of the very things he accuses other of. Sitting on the sideline throwing barbs at everyone else may sell a few books and garner a TV show but he still ain't doing much cooking.

Richard

Bourdain's No Reservations show is on the Travel Channel, not the Food Network. Sure he's guilty of not necessarily being a "cook" on his show, but he isn't supposed to be.

mike,
that was exactly what I thought...better still, why not me?

Oh, right. Lack of funds.

Great rant by Bourdain. Question is, can the real chefs get together and set up a real Food Network?


Mike

Several years ago I got a call from the assistant to the director of programming on TFN. She wanted to see an instructional pilot.

Well, I had a video company - very professional - willing to work with me on it. We made them one and they submitted it. Hell, I think it was all right. And waited to hear from them.

Couple of months went by and nothing. The video guys called and asked what was up. They were told the network was switching to an "entertainment" format - with less instruction. They *specifically* didn't want any more "cooking" shows. If we wanted to do something in the nature of "entertainment" they would be happy to look at it.

So, this has been in the works for several years. Finally coming to fruition.

(I just edited this - I originally typed "futition" - probably closer to the truth than what I actually ended up typing.)

Any chance you can get the video back, Chef? I can't help but think that sooner or later someone will get a real Food Network up and running again.



Mike

Any chance you can get the video back, Chef? I can't help but think that sooner or later someone will get a real Food Network up and running again.



Mike

I think I have a copy lying around somewhere.

In the meantime, I am on record as to my feelings about TFN - as of a couple of years ago. Now, I should warn you...Spencer makes up stuff all the time. Like the quote he attributes to me. Yes, it's true I do use all the words in that sentence - at one time or another.

Spencer is entertaining and has a restaurant in Cano San Lucas. This is from his newsletter.

http://www.felixcabosanlucas.com/news35.htm

Man, is Spencer ever right about Diana Kennedy. I have one of her books and have never felt up to attempting any of the recipes. I just flat don't have the time to mess with them (and that's given that I usually spend at least one full day out of my weekend doing little but cooking).

Mike

Speaking of Bourdain...how is it that a chef is also a smoker? It seems to me that the two just seem exclusive, since smoking greatly diminishes the olfactory sense and taste buds, which I would think a chef (or wine connoiseur for that matter) would want to keep sharply honed.

I just found it odd the first time I watched him on TV and saw him smoking. Not that I mind...I actually appreciate the un-PC aspect.

Speaking of Bourdain...how is it that a chef is also a smoker? It seems to me that the two just seem exclusive, since smoking greatly diminishes the olfactory sense and taste buds, which I would think a chef (or wine connoiseur for that matter) would want to keep sharply honed.

I just found it odd the first time I watched him on TV and saw him smoking. Not that I mind...I actually appreciate the un-PC aspect.

You'd be amazed at the number of chefs who smoke. I think it happens for a couple of reasons. First, among those of us who are older, it was often the only reason one could get a break from the line. The chef didn't care if you peed down your leg, but a smoke break was permissible..

Secondly, it is a very stressful business.

And, incidentally, some people are born with tastebuds, some aren't. The variation among individuals is astounding. (And accounts, I think, for a lot of folks who dan't care what they put in their mouth).

And, if you got 'em, they'll take a lot of abuse.

xx

He's guest blogging again on Ruhlman's site, wonderful stuff.

http://blog.ruhlman.com/2007/02/guest_blogging_.html

There is some terrific blogging going on there and rants about RR and Sandra Lee. Seems we are spared SL up here in Canada!!!

I read Tony's rant and many of the comments. Yawn; Ho-Hum! What's the problem? So the FoodNetwork is not your (or His) thing. Okay. But, if all you say is true, why so much wasted energy? Unfortunately, the majority of us are just average (at just about everything). It is not surprising that the mediocre nature of television would have found its water level and set a goal to appeal to a mediocre public with the FoodNetwork -- is it? Is Bourdain really concerned about the compromises made by Mario, Emeril and Bobby to line themselves up with the likes of Rachel, Sandra and Paula? And, if so, why? For those of us who can really cook, they really didn't have a heck of a lot to teach us when they showed up -- now, did they? Think about it -- who was the FoodNetwork really designed for, after all?

Me think thou doth protest a little too much!