Going to PARIS!

This will be my first time in the city. Looking for recommendations for restaurants or bistros with memorable fare. Let me know your favs! After, heading over to London to have my long-awaited meal with Fergus Henderson. Let me know if there is a pub or restaurant I should also look to check out. Much appreciated.

Have fun! Sounds like a wonderful trip! One of these days I suppose I should go to Europe - never been there.

Have fun! Sounds like a wonderful trip! One of these days I suppose I should go to Europe - never been there.

The Marines didn't take you there? Tsk, tsk. Used to be everybody went to Europe, like mid-1940's or so.

I've been there a couple of times but can't claim any particularly special places for food and drink. We pretty much ate well at various bistros and greatly enjoyed the street markets.

You probably already know this, but the reputation the French have for being snooty towards Americans is greatly overblown. We found that if we were friendly, polite, and did our best to communicate (without just speaking English REALLY LOUDLY) then we were treated quite well. I'm sure you'll have no problems with any of that, Jo Ann.

I know you'll have a fantastic time. I'll be waiting for the stories!

The Marines didn't take you there? Tsk, tsk. Used to be everybody went to Europe, like mid-1940's or so.

Not so! Marines fought in France in WW I, but in WW II they fought the Japanese, while the Army did North Africa and Europe. The only Marines that go to Europe are those in Embassy duty or assigned to a fleet. I was only sent to Vietnam and Okinawa in the late 1960s.

Hi Jo Ann,

A few places we really enjoy in Paris -

Caves Petrissans, 30 bis Av. Niel, Paris 17; tel 01 42 27 52 03 (Metro Pereire), http://www.cavespetrissans.fr/ - this is a wine bar/bistro that serves excellent classical French food, with a wonderful and fairly priced wine list (covers everything from vin de pays for a few Euros/bottle up to DRC's at ~2,500 Euros...). It is a multi-generation family business, always full with mainly local clientele, and was one of Rogov's regular Paris recommendations. I make a point of going there every time I am in Paris. My son and I ate there in Febrary, while drinking an 18 year old Bordeaux from my son's birth-year, found on the extended wine list for 50 Euros a bottle. Reserve in advance via e-mail

Pierre Sang in Oberkampf, 55 rue Oberkampf - 75011 Paris (metro Oberkampf or Parmentier), http://www.pierresangboyer.com/EN/ - Creative, amazing and VERY affordable fusion cuisine! They offer a five course 'surprise' menu selected by the chef (just verifying that you have no allergies or other limitations). Book well in advance and ask to be seated at the bar in front of the chef's station, so you can watch Pierre and his sous chef prepare the meal right in front of you while chatting with you and other customers. We enjoyed it so much that we wanted to come back the next day again, so were directed to their second site round the corner on Rue Gambey, where we had a fantastic lunch - same concept but more Korean edge to the cuisine. Pierre Sang in Oberkampf was our best dining experience in Paris, and on the must-visit-again list as soon as possible.

Huitrerie Regis, 3 Rue Montfaucon - 75006 Paris - Tél : 01.44.41.10.07, http://huitrerieregis.com/ - if you like oysters this place will feed you the most magnificent examples you can imagine. No reservations, go there for lunch and be early, the place is tiny and latecomers have a long wait...

Enjoy!

mike

The Marines didn't take you there? Tsk, tsk. Used to be everybody went to Europe, like mid-1940's or so.

Not so! Marines fought in France in WW I, but in WW II they fought the Japanese, while the Army did North Africa and Europe. The only Marines that go to Europe are those in Embassy duty or assigned to a fleet. I was only sent to Vietnam and Okinawa in the late 1960s.

Thanks for the history lesson, Howie. I had just assumed that all branches were deployed everywhere.

I don't have any recent experience, but friends have recommended Septime and Passage 53 if you want "hot" places. .

L'Arpege is very very expensive, but apparently more reasonable at lunch if you want a top tier experience

It was always pretty old school bistro, but I've loved Allard both times I've gone, especially the Bresse chicken.

OK, and while it wouldn't make any foodie must visit/hot new thing list, I was surprised how much I enjoyed when a French friend took us to Bofinger, which I expected to be a tourist trap. Beautiful classic brasserie, and the choucroute was excellent (and the raw bar),

I don't have any recent experience, but friends have recommended Septime and Passage 53 if you want "hot" places. .

L'Arpege is very very expensive, but apparently more reasonable at lunch if you want a top tier experience

It was always pretty old school bistro, but I've loved Allard both times I've gone, especially the Bresse chicken.

OK, and while it wouldn't make any foodie must visit/hot new thing list, I was surprised how much I enjoyed when a French friend took us to Bofinger, which I expected to be a tourist trap. Beautiful classic brasserie, and the choucroute was excellent (and the raw bar),

I'll second the Bofinger. (There's actually two, the original and an annex, right across from each other). It's a nice experience and the food was surprisingly good.)

For ice cream, people watching, and Parisian scenery, Berthillon.

This may sound touristy---because it is---but one of the things I recco to anyone traveling for the first time to a major destination, and most especially Paris for the first time, is to take the red double-decker tourist bus around the core of the city.

Paris is just too much to take in the first time, and you'll end up walking everywhere and trying to see everything and exhausting yourself.

Take the on-and-off bus of your choice, see the full roster of places you've heard about (and some you may not have), check the ones that pique your interest the most, get off at any stop, and take the bus at any stop, any time you wish. It is the perfect way to start---then you can go back and explore in depth the places that interested you the most.

Places I have to go to in Paris:

Walk the entire Tuileries, from the Place de la Concorde/Jeu de Paume all the way to Pei's Pyramids at the Louvre.

(Whether you go into the Louvre or not---it's almost irresistible, but tends to be rather gloomy and overcrowded and you can't get up close and personal with the art---is up to you. It's one of the few things I can miss in Paris, but that's because I've been there, done that, and have more fun in other places.)

Musee d'Orsay---an absolute must for me and mine, and eternally new and refreshing to the soul. A Belle Epoque train station that became a government office building that became one of the finest art museums ever. The building itself, and what the Italian architect made of it for its current incarnation, is in itself a great work of art.

Musee Picasso, because I'm a Picasso nut and the arrangment and display in the Hotel de Sale estate is staggering.

Tour Eiffel; in part because of the magnificence of the Tower, or course, but even more so because the space around there is an embodiment of the life and energy of both the Parisians and the throngs of tourists. And stay up for the fireworks show at the Eifel every night. It's worth it.

Walk the Champs Elysses, from the Arch to the Concord. Go ahead; you know you've fantasized it so many times. Be a flaneur, a boulevardier, and stop and have a refreshing drink, perhaps a Pastis or a citron presse', along the way. (Yes, the upper part of the Champs is a depressing series of shops, but what the hell.)

Boul'Mich (Boulevard St. Michelle on the Left Bank, meandering over to Boulevard St. Germain. Still irresistible to me, and always will be. Visit Shakespeare's Bookstore along the Seine, looking out towards the front of Notre Dame. Stop at Deux Magots just outside the Abbaye Ste. Germain, have an overpriced coffee or biere (you're paying for the view) and watch a goodly part of Paris stroll past. Step a few steps down the boulevard and across to Brasserie Lipp for some Belgian beer and mussels.

Sacre Couer---take a taxi, or ride up the funicular. If you hike up, it is a major workout, believe me. Touristy as hell, sure. But the view is incredible and the little alleyways are cute.

Luxembourg Gardens--- one of the quieter and more sedate walking/strolling areas in Paris. Beautiful, peaceful, and manages to handle the many people without (hardly ever) feeling overcrowded.

The various flea markets---whether you buy anything or not (and you likely will), the markets are your best shot at seeing the people of Paris in their natural habitat.

Get up waaaay early and go out in the streets, and watch the slumbering city wake itself up, and the sweepers and working people come out, and watch the sun come up and light up the city, then have a huge bowl of cafe creme with a chocolate croissant.

Late in the evening, stop at random at one of the many carts cooking up fresh crepes (savory or sweet) or Croque M'Sieurs. Cheap, hot, satisfying, and you get to wonder what nationality the cook is.

My favourite Paris restaurant experience (other than my 65th birthday lunch at the 433-year-old La Tour d'Argent, which was memorable more for the service and the ambience than the food) was at a bistro enttitled Au Petit Sud Ouest, which specializes in dishes from the southwest of France, primarily duck and foie gras. They have something like 25 different foie gras appetizers and the duck confit is to die for.

Be aware that there are (or at least were) two restaurants with that name, which used to be jointly owned and have roughly the same menu. Unfortunately for us, Trip Advisor, and La Fourchette (an android app that we used to make a reservation) picked one of them, and my offline mapping app (Navfree) picked the other one, so we had to scramble at the last minute to reschedule our reservation.

I can also highly recommend the B&B we stayed at - La Villa Paris - very friendly and helpful when we had to reschedule our dinner reservation. It was, and still is,the #1 rated B&B in Paris on Trip Advisor.

Oh, there are lots of good places to eat in Paris. Let me give you a weird one: Nos Ancetres Les Gaulois. It's on the Ile St Louis. It is touristy, for sure. Decor is straight out of Asterix. You pick a main course and everything else just comes... a towering basket of raw vegetables, then a huge basket of bread, then another one filled with cheese and salami; you get up and fill your own pichet from a barrel of (so-so) Cahors. We ate there once -- once is enough -- but it was fun and silly and you talk to the people at the table next to you and so on. http://www.nosancetreslesgaulois.com/

[Robin Garr]

Nos Ancetres Les Gaulois. It's on the Ile St Louis. It is touristy, for sure.

You know, I think I've eaten there! I'm pretty sure that's the place where Mary and I met Eden Blum and her boyfriend, years ago. Touristy for sure. The company was fun, although I'm not sure I'd want to waste one meal of a short foodie trip to Paris on a meal there if friends weren't involved.

Nos Ancetres Les Gaulois. It's on the Ile St Louis. It is touristy, for sure.

You know, I think I've eaten there! I'm pretty sure that's the place where Mary and I met Eden Blum and her boyfriend, years ago. Touristy for sure. The company was fun, although I'm not sure I'd want to waste one meal of a short foodie trip to Paris on a meal there if friends weren't involved.

I only knew about it because a dyed-in-the-wool Parisian told me about it. The novelty of it was everything for him.

And it absolutely isn't a foodie destination. I have never been so surprised as when we placed our order and then immediately an enormous basket of carrots, celery and radishes landed on the table -- so tall, so wide, stalks sticking out in every direction, it was ridiculous. I could barely see Jim sitting across from me!

But, that said, it's a throwaway night in terms of serious eats.

For one-star dining, Jim and I were very happy with Vin Sur Vin, near the Eiffel Tower. Quiet, pretty room. The husband speaks English and has a lovely way. The wife appears rather more dour, starched and stiff in her Chanel suit... ah, but we praised the vieux comte cheese and she cracked a smile. Not a perfect meal or a showoff-y meal but we enjoyed it.

Don't forget to visit the chocolate makers. There are many and they are good!

Don't forget to visit the chocolate makers. There are many and they are good!

Indeed. Plus it's such an affordable luxury. For under 10 euros you can get some seriously high-level (and delicious) craftsmanship.

This is a good website: http://parisbymouth.com/

For one-star dining, Jim and I were very happy with Vin Sur Vin, near the Eiffel Tower. Quiet, pretty room. The husband speaks English and has a lovely way. The wife appears rather more dour, starched and stiff in her Chanel suit... ah, but we praised the vieux comte cheese and she cracked a smile. Not a perfect meal or a showoff-y meal but we enjoyed it.

Ah, Vin Sur Vin...good memories.

Many years ago, when VSV first opened I was visiting Paris and a good friend of mine, a Parisian who was managing a Champagne house (Pommery) came into town to take me to dinner. He said there was a new place run by an old friend who was wacky but talented, and had spent many years as a wine buyer and consultant before he opened his restaurant.

When we arrived, we were greeted boisterously. Stephane built me up a little, explaining how knowledgeable and passionate I was, blah blah blah. So the owner took away our menus and the wine list, said he would decide what we were having for dinner, and starting bringing out wines (and drinking many of them with us).

Finally, he brought us glasses of an absolutely delightful white wine that at that time I could not identify. He asked me to describe it as best I could. I did, and he agreed it was a good description. Then he asked me how old it was. It was so bright, so lively, that I said "Uh...maybe three years?"

"Hah!" he said. "This is a ten year old Gaillac Blanc from the Sud-Ouest No one ever believes it is this old and still seems so young and has such nervosite'. But don't try to find it---there was only one barrel of this made by a farmer in this year, and I bought it all."

It was a great evening. I sent several people there over the next few years. Good to know it's still chugging along.

Don't forget to visit the chocolate makers. There are many and they are good!

Indeed. Plus it's such an affordable luxury. For under 10 euros you can get some seriously high-level (and delicious) craftsmanship.

And not just the chocolate makers, but the shops which specialize in the 'pot de chocolat'. One of the most sinfull rich ways to wile away an afternoon there could possibly be.

While we're talking about sweets, I have a memory that needs corroboration: In 2007, I was walking around the 1st, perhaps I was East of the Louvre?, and I wandered into a very old-fashioned sweet shop. I remember lots of glass shelves, colored lights, fussy decoration, a very old but lovely woman running the place, and a broad selection of preserved fruit -- orange rind, lemon peel, figs, clementines, and so on -- presumably, all steeped in sugar syrup for a long time but all still vivid. Does anyone else know this shop?

One more museum I'll throw in is their Museum of Natural History. It's probably not on everyone's list of must-see places in Paris, but it's on mine. The Great Gallery of Evolution is a huge building full of all sorts of mounted skeletons. There are also lot of smaller creatures preserved in jars. It sounds a little weird but I found it to be very cool in a Victorian science way. If you check out "Paris Museum of Natural HIstory" on Google images, you'll get an idea of what it's like.

(Whether you go into the Louvre or not---it's almost irresistible, but tends to be rather gloomy and overcrowded and you can't get up close and personal with the art---is up to you. It's one of the few things I can miss in Paris, but that's because I've been there, done that, and have more fun in other places.)
.

Personally, if first time in Paris I can't imagine missing the Louvre. It can be very crowded, but even in summer you can minimize- avoid the Pei pyramid entrance, go from metro level; go on a weekday when Orsay is also open (and vice versa), don't worry about the Mona Lisa- people will be 10 deep, while 15 yards away you can be only person looking at a Caravaggio or a large scale Titian,

Agree Orsay is a must (again, don't go on the Louvre's closed day) as is Picasso. I'd also suggest the Rodin and the City of Paris MOMA (latter is never crowded)

And I say walk up to Sacre Couer, gives you excuse to eat more.

Don't miss Frenchie. Terrific food, not terribly expensive. I ate there twice on our last trip and enjoyed both times immensely.

I second Dale's recco for the Rodin museum. Very nice gardens, and you can have a very good lunch there, too.

While we're talking about sweets, I have a memory that needs corroboration: In 2007, I was walking around the 1st, perhaps I was East of the Louvre?, and I wandered into a very old-fashioned sweet shop. I remember lots of glass shelves, colored lights, fussy decoration, a very old but lovely woman running the place, and a broad selection of preserved fruit -- orange rind, lemon peel, figs, clementines, and so on -- presumably, all steeped in sugar syrup for a long time but all still vivid. Does anyone else know this shop?

Don't know that one, Jeff.

I found some of the same in Place de la Madeleine, where Hediard and Fauchon are located. But you know about those.

[Robin Garr]

One more museum I'll throw in is their Museum of Natural History.

Le Musee de Moyen Age is another of our favorites ... home of the Unicorn Tapestry and lots more interesting stuff, and located in a really interesting, walkable stretch of the Left Bank. But Paris really is a classic case of "too much to see, too little time."

(Whether you go into the Louvre or not---it's almost irresistible, but tends to be rather gloomy and overcrowded and you can't get up close and personal with the art---is up to you. It's one of the few things I can miss in Paris, but that's because I've been there, done that, and have more fun in other places.)
.

Personally, if first time in Paris I can't imagine missing the Louvre. It can be very crowded, but even in summer you can minimize- avoid the Pei pyramid entrance, go from metro level; go on a weekday when Orsay is also open (and vice versa), don't worry about the Mona Lisa- people will be 10 deep, while 15 yards away you can be only person looking at a Caravaggio or a large scale Titian,

Agree Orsay is a must (again, don't go on the Louvre's closed day) as is Picasso. I'd also suggest the Rodin and the City of Paris MOMA (latter is never crowded)

And I say walk up to Sacre Couer, gives you excuse to eat more.

Absolutely the Musee Rodin!!!! How could I have forgotten that! Mesmerizing. I'm also a sucker, as an armchair historian, for the Musee Militaire in Les Invalides, but that's just me.

I'll yied to you on the Louvre...a bit. Going through the Pei Pyramid entrance is part of the fun to me. Especially if you know the history of how the Parisians despised it at first, then came to love it (well, most anyway). I would echo you in scheduling the Louvre at the right time, and figuring out what you most wanted to see and hitting those wings. For an all day standing-on-hard-floors static museum, it can be torturous. And it is so frickin' dark and gloomy.

The Orsay, in contrast, is a brilliant burst of color and light.

There's another one I'm missing. Out in the near 'burbs. Have to take the Metro or RER, walk through a very pleasant little neighborhood. Impressionists in an old estate house. Beautiful, Worth the trip. Can't remember the name now.