WTN: Coche-Dury, Parent, Pertimali, Issan, Haut Brion

Blind tasting lunch notes:

11 people and 14 wines! This one took a little longer than normal.

2003 Les Brottiers Cote du Rhone Rosé – nice pink wine with a dry, clean pleasant finish. Nice way to start!

2006 Dunham and Froese ‘Night Hawk’ Pinot Blanc – a new BC winery obviously unaware of the existence of the classic ‘Night Train’ when they chose this name. Light in colour, a soft wine without pretension, nice feel for a summer sipper.

2003 Zind Humbrecht Rotenberg Pinot Gris – I guessed this as an Alsatian Tokay right off the bat but was mendaciously told it wasn’t just because the label said it was PG not Tokay! Hmmph! Good colour, hint of spice an a smooth slightly warm mouth feel . An uncharacteristic 15.5% alcohol!

2003 Moss Wood Margaret River Chardonnay – an excellent toasty nose with a hint of coconut and mace, lots of acidity (which sent us away from Australia). Tons of interest in the nose and on palate. Excellent wine!

1970 Haut Brion – pale rim, obvious aged mature Bordeaux nose, faint hints of tannin remaining, starting to lose fruit but the balance was still good – an elegant mature Bordeaux. Delightful.

2002 Coche-Dury Meursault Cote de Beaune Rouge – a Burg from out in left field. Nice sweet fruit in the nose, an uplifting surge on palate and a silky smooth slightly sweet finish. What a pleasant surprise!

2003 Annick Parent Volnay 1 Cru Fremiets – another wine that performed above expectation. Darker colour, with more depth to the nose, a spicy cherry melange, no funkiness at all – completely fruit driven. Drinks exceptionally well now and no reason to hold it although it is still on the upswing.

1983 Ch. d’Issan – a house we don’t see much of here. Nice obviously mature nose with tobacco and berries plus medium tannin and good but not effusive fruit led me correctly to the vintage but I couldn’t go further. Enjoyable wine.

1990 La Poderina Brunello – corked

2005 Quinta Ferreira Malbec – a wine that showed no hint of varietal character from a BC producer I had never heard of (a grower recently turned winery) yet quite decent . Dark purple, grapey sweet ripe nose, pleasant finish.

1997 Castello Banfi Summus – the nose was very much like a Bordeaux with fresh currant, a fairly international sort of wine with the only hint of origin being the slightly high terminal acidity. Once we located it in Italy, the vintage came easily. Could use some more time.

1995 Pertimali Brunello – a favourite producer for me ( I still have a few of the wonderful 1988). Thick legs, fairly dark, still lots of tannin, good fruit and a dry fi9nish featuring – yes, more tannin. Drinks fairly well now but should improve.

1995 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva – big time cherries and vanilla with a hint of coconut in the nose, and while it drinks nicely now there is absolutely no rush. Very enjoyable.

1991 Quinta do Vesuvio Port – while I have this wine (and the 1992) in my cellar and while some reviewers (Parker) have suggested that it will drink well young, to me this is barely coming together and needs time. Hot sweet nose beginning to meld, and smell like Port rather than fruit and spirit, and on palate the unresolved alcohol and youthful flavours nonetheless indicate a promising future.

1970 Haut Brion – pale rim, obvious aged mature Bordeaux nose, faint hints of tannin remaining, starting to lose fruit but the balance was still good – an elegant mature Bordeaux. Delightful.

I've only had one Ch. Haut Brion, that being the 1967 that we had in 1978. I remember it well. One of my epiphany wines, and it was $10.

[Jenise]

Bill, my notes:

2003 Les Brottiers Cote du Rhone Rosé – Tavel-like with almond notes and a faint sherryishness, but it's not oxidized. Quite austere, and I like it. Never heard of this producer before.

2006 Dunham and Froese ‘Night Hawk’ Pinot Blanc – very light yellow. Minerals and flowers in the nose with a little leesiness, clean fruit with a little white pepper. Impossible to peg the grape, but here's another wine that makes the case for not ripping out all the pinot blanc vines in North America, as I have previously asserted should be done.

2003 Zind Humbrecht Rotenberg Pinot Gris – Okay, you said Tokay (pronouncing it toe-kye) where I said "toe-kay pinot gris", because it reminded me exactly of a Clement Klur wine labeled 'tokay pinot gris' I once owned a case of, though I have in fact no idea what tokay pinot gris actually is other than these descriptors which fit both wines in question: Lanolin, perfume, and off-dry in a way that feels heavy to me. Very good at being what it is, but I have to admit I'm not attracted to this style.

2003 Moss Wood Margaret River Chardonnay – Pine resin is the first thing I smell, then honeysuckle, coconut and vinyl. Big, sweet nose, and surprisingly dry on the palate for all the fanfare up front, though it opened up a bit more with air time. The guy who sold this to the guy who brought it said it would skew Old World--well, no way, but it was a very good and interesting wine.

1970 Haut Brion – My wine. And I didn't take one single note on it. Reason is that while we were sipping the Moss Wood, I saw Manny pouring mine, and I went rigid with fear. A Bordeaux? NOW, before the pinots or other lighter reds? "OH NO, my wine's crap!", I thought. I could barely taste it myself for watching other people's reactions. Fortunately, it was fine. Not outstanding like the 79, but I didn't expect it to be, and what it was, was what I'd hoped for. I enjoyed it. Rob said it was his WOTN.

2002 Coche-Dury Meursault Cote de Beaune Rouge – herbs, raspberry fruit, peppery. Very Beaune-ish with an excellent, precise delicacy. If that makes any sense. One of my favorites of the day.

2003 Annick Parent Volnay 1 Cru Fremiets – very expressive sweet floral nose. Tons of fruit. Beautiful. For some reason I haven't had very many Volnays at all, but I've read about them and everything I've read about what makes Volnay distinguishable from other communes was in this wine. This had Rob and I asking each other why we haven't bought more 03's.

1983 Ch. d’Issan – obviously Bordeaux, and drinking perfectly right now. At peak, though it could hold here for a few years.

1990 La Poderina Brunello – corked,yes, and what a shame, because the underlying wine was in perfect condition. What a loss!

2005 Quinta Ferreira Malbec – What you said.

1997 Castello Banfi Summus – Very cabbish and leathery, excellent finish, probably mid-90's.

1995 Pertimali Brunello – My notes on this are hazy. I noted "cabbish", then crossed out the word. No idea what I meant by that. Also noted black cherry and spicy wood, and "wish I had this in the cellar".

1995 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva – heady nose with big round cherry flavors and vanilla, orange rind and spice--perfect secondary development. Luscious, an outstanding showing.

1991 Quinta do Vesuvio Port – a vote was taken and half the table didn't think this was port. I was one of the ones who did: sweet, light and young, but very pleasant drinking right now.