WTN: (The oft-maligned) Ch. St. Jean "Cinq Cepages" 1996

This Speck-designated “Wine of the Year” (1999) gets its share of abuse. Hoke has called it “Sink Seepage,” and Covert . . . well, don’t get him started. Even Laube seems ready to throw it under the bus. After telling the crowd it had a long life ahead of it at some big Speck "Experience" in New York a year or so ago, he marked it down to the mid-80s in '96 retrospective tasting a few months back.

It was a gift to me, so I can’t speak to value or wantonly opportunistic price spikes. And I won’t attempt to justify calling any bottle WOTY. But I have to say this wine was lovely last night, both on its own and with a medium-rare filet.

For an 11-year-old, surprisingly dark ruby-purple, nearly opaque. Aromas of dried leaves and blackcurrants, with hints of smoke and earth. Round and complex on the palate, with layered dark fruits and occasional flashes of red berry, and a pleasantly aged, tea-like flavor quality. Not sure about the proportions of the five varieties, but there are dimensions here I don’t usually find in Cal Cab-Sauvignon. Tannins are present but softened, and the acidity may be a bit out of balance at this point. Cherry-vanilla grace note on the finish. Mature, probably starting on the downswing, but dancing a two-step of boldness and elegance, at least for a night.

[Robin Garr]

This Speck-designated “Wine of the Year” (1999) gets its share of abuse. ... But I have to say this wine was lovely last night, both on its own and with a medium-rare filet.

Clinton, there's no substitute for personal experience, even in the face of a much-maligned wine (and yes, I've maligned it, too). Thanks for your open-minded tasting report!

While not the vintage in question, I was actually impressed by the 03 CC I tried at the winery this Spring. I didn't find it spoofulated at all. No vanilla or caramel. Balanced acidity. Nice tannins-a little austere, even.

I just hope this is not another wine that tasted well at the winery but I hate it when I open it for dinner

As the most recent maligner (at a blind tasting my notes included "chocolate milkshake made with not
so fresh milk. Short finish, close to dying an ugly death staked over an anthill"), I am glad to see you liked it better.

One factor, of course, in a wine that was a WS WOTN is that prices exploding, meaning a lot of examples have been traded more than once. Which increases the chance of poor storage or exposure to high temperatures during travel. I think Tim bought the bottle I tried within last year or two. Who knows where it was before?