WTN: Donedei

Last week, our local wine shop hosted Carolyn Lakewold, the winemaker/owner of Gibbons Lane Winery, whose wines are sold under the Donedei label. Located just south of Olympia, WA, this winery makes only two wines with a total production of approximately 800 cases. Grapes are sourced primarily from Ciel du Cheval vineyard on Red Mountain, as well as 2-3 other vineyards in the Yakima Valley and Horse Heaven Hills. The wines are made from 100% free-run juice and the results are simply lovely.

In addition to the newest 2003 vintage wines, we had the opportunity to sample from the 2001 vintage, which I tasted and purchased a few years ago.

2003 Donedei Merlot ($35, 13.5% ABV): Lovely dark color with lush aroma; tastes of dark fruit and baker’s chocolate with smooth tannin and a nice long finish. This is a Merlot with a lot of body and style, which they characterize as assertive. It is a blend of 83% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Although drinkable today, I would let it age a few years.

2003 Donedei Cabernet Sauvignon ($35, 13.7% ABV): Another dark wine, but with a somewhat closed aroma; it needs decanting time to open up. It has a rich blackberry taste with medium tannin and a long finish. It is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot. Although drinkable now with a couple hours of decanting, this wine really needs to age a few years.

2001 Donedei Merlot ($tbd, 13.5% ABV): Big and dark like its newer vintage, but with that touch of elegant integration only time delivers. It is a blend of 77% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Cabernet Franc, and it is ready to drink now. The last I purchased Merlot, this was it ... and I am so glad there are a couple of bottles in our wine storage today.

2001 Donedei Cabernet Sauvignon ($tbd, 13.5% ABV): Also a nice dark wine, with lush warm aroma and tastes. Time in the bottle has smoothed the edges, making this a wonderful wine that is ready to drink now. It is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot. Yep … got some of this in our wine storage, too.

-- Clark

[Jenise]

Clark, were you able to ask Carolyn (a delightful woman) about further aging of her 01's? Drinkable's one thing, but room for further improvement is another. I have some 00's and 01's yet, and I keep reaching for them and then hesitating.

Jenise,

Carolyn really is a very delightful person, and she even remembered that we had met several years ago. It was a real pleasure talking with her.

Unfortunately, I did not think to ask her about further aging of the 2001 vintage wines. I wish I could give you a better indication how close to peak these wines are today. I would not hesitate to serve either of them (the Merlot or the Cabernet) now.

She invited me to visit her winery, and I just might be able to do that in the next 2-3 weeks. I will ask her then or send an email.

-- Clark