Pasta with grated zucchini, fresh herbs and parmesan:
2002 Overnoy-Houillon, Arbois Pupillin:
Masters of the poulsard grape, this wine smells of pomegranate, mineral, red plum and brown spice; the same flavors on the palate with a distinctly funky/aged side that makes the overall impression one of maturity, good structure, fine balance; excellent length. A wine of character, terroir or – name your term – personality that would never be confused with anything else. A wine that makes me giggle. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $21; stupidly under priced.
Chosen because I was “jonesin’” for it. The pairing was not so much a perfect blending but more a point/counter-point done very, very well. At one moment the food holds sway despite the wine’s sensuous streak; the next the wine underlines a flavor or puts an exclamation point at the end of a nibble. This wine moves me in ways very few others can; it is, without apology, fully of its place.
Goat cheese and crackers (while watching the movie):
2005 Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vignes:
So much more open than on release: still a brooding, structured wine with dark fruit smells and flavors, an underlying minerality and a serious disposition. From very old vines – a wine in need of cellaring. 13% alcohol, imported by Becky Wasserman and about $22; I bought a bunch.
Good with the cheese and crackers and not bad on its own. But too young to get the full ‘monty’ from. Hold.
Eggplant parmesan:
2006 Ravelli, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo:
Dusty and full of dark fruit on the nose; grippy and intense on the palate with good fruit flavors, some complexity and very nice balance; medium length. A wine that has a lot more personality than its price tag would have you believe. 12% alcohol, imported by Opici Wine Co. and about $6; I’ll buy more.
Chosen on heritage. Proved the history right with very solid acidity to cut the cheese in the dish and ripe flavors to compliment the eggplant. A pretty good pairing and a very economical one.
Best, Jim
