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WTN: Vissoux and Souhaut

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Vissoux and Souhaut

by Dale Williams » Tue Jul 24, 2007 3:22 pm

Last night Betsy made a starter course of chard/ricotto gnocchi in sage butter (she's made an almost identical recipe before, which they called "malfatti", but Marcella just calls gnocchi). Went well with leftover Macon. Before dinner, I had opened the 2005 Pierre-Marie Chermette (Domaine du Vissoux) "Cuvée Traditionelle" Beaujolais VV. It was rather mute at that time, with fair amount of tannins for a Beaujolais sticking out. But after we finished appetizer, Betsy served the chicken (with herbs, potatoes,and pancetta, a Biba C. recipe). We switched to red, and quite a pretty Beaujolais greeted us. Some soft tannis in background, but overall a lighter wine. Pretty black cherry fruit with a little hint of grenadine, sweet and smoky. Delicate but with real verve. Excellent for the money! B+

Over the course of several nights, the 2005 Herve Souhaut Syrah (VdP l'Ardeche). I'm not sure I gave this a fair test, I opened one night when a red loving friend dropped by, and kept sampling post-dinner as my dessert for several evenings. First night the acidity was so prickly it was startling. There were some interesting flavors- blackberries, black raspberries, a bit of bacon fat. But the acidity was sharp and overriding. Best night was probably #2, when the acidity went down a notch (though way higher than most reds) and the flavors came through, the meat and black olive reminding me a little of a lesser Northern Rhone. By third night some oxidative notes were showing. I can't say I got a lot of pleasure from this,too acidic for even me, I'll give a B- at its best. But I have a sneaking suspicion that with the right timing (a few hour decant) and the right food (maybe a stew with meat, tomatoes, olives) I might have found this delightful. But only bottle, so I'll never know.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Vissoux and Souhaut

by Rahsaan » Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:24 pm

Dale Williams wrote: 2005 Herve Souhaut Syrah (VdP l'Ardeche). I'm not sure I gave this a fair test..


On the other hand it might not have given you a fair test.

I'm a fan of Souhaut, although I've experienced a good amount of bottle variation, sometimes with tinny brett taking over, and other times with that whiplash acidity you described.

My best bottles have all been in France, but some of the bad ones have been there as well.

Another one of those tricky natural wine producers that I avoid when I need a "sure thing". But if the storage is good and I'm in the mood for pure wine, then it can be worth the gamble for the tremendous amount of joy I get from his wines.

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