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WTN: A slew of wines, some with food

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Bill Buitenhuys

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WTN: A slew of wines, some with food

by Bill Buitenhuys » Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:36 am

Cleaning out a cluttered TN closet....

2004 Chermette/Vissoux Fleurie Les Galants (Beaujolais) One of those life affirming wines. This has lots of vibrancy with dark fruit, mixed dried herbs, earthiness, solid minerality, and coarse tannins which soften after a couple of hours. Very nice, great with a burger, and sure makes business travel easier to take.

2005 Chateau de Montfort Vouvray (Loire) A bit flabby at first but tasty and rich. Given some air, the wine shows better structure but overall it’s just an average chenin compared to some of the great '05's out there.

NV Roederer Anderson Valley Brut (CA) One of the few wines on the restaurant menu that I cared to drink. A bit aggressive at first but when it softens it’s a decent match for the assorted lobster dishes. Worked better with creamy lobster risotto than with the lobster roll. Clean crisp ripe fruit with the slightest hint of smokiness, very cleansing acidity, and a lengthy finish. It isn’t as deep as the L'Ermitage Brut but it’s pretty refreshing sitting by the ocean.

2000 Chateau Brown (Pessac-Léognan) Starting to show some secondary characteristics of menthol, cedar, and tobacco with the dark, ripe fruit. Flavor is very Bordeaux. Solidly concentrated fruit, scorched earth, integrating tannins and surprisingly rich ripe tannins. Really nice match with the med-rare ribeye and a good value at $20.

2006 Jean-Paul Brun Rosé d'folie (Beaujolais) Sweet strawberry and red cherry fruit with a solid mineral core and zippy, lingering bitter citrus finish. Very very refreshing with an asparagus/feta quiche and dijon vinaigrette salad.

Mumm Napa XXVth Anniversary Reserve Brut (Napa) 48% pinot noir, 45% chard plus pinot gris and pinot meunier. Good starter. Lots of red fruit, toasty-leesy nose, and a zingy finish. My fave from Mumm Napa.

2005 Domaine Richou Anjou Chauvigné (Loire) Opened for 6 hrs prior to dinner. The softly sweet entry, lush fruit, and very crisply acidic finish turned out to be an excellent match with lobster rolls (touch of mayo, celery, and tarragon w/Bibb lettuce on toasted finger rolls). I still think this needs time to integrate and have some of the baby fat front end soften a bit. Very enjoyable wine.

1993 Giussepe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate-LeCoste (Piedmont) Uncorked at 10am to “audouze” for the day. Most of the day it was aromatically closed but at 8pm when we poured this it was extremely open w/dried violets, dried orange peel, and anise/licorice. The flavors didn’t quite live up to the nose though. Lots of sour red frut and highly tannic with somewhat thinner midpalate than I would have expected. It did go very well with the sangiovese-braised beef over orzo primavera though. Good, not great, classically styled barolo.

1998 Maculan Torcolato (Breganze) I love this stuff. Wonderfully honeyed, floral nose, great balance, dessert level sweetness w/plenty of acid, and a satisfyingly long caramel, butterscotch finish. Fun as a dip for biscotti too.
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Clinton Macsherry

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Re: WTN: A slew of wines, some with food

by Clinton Macsherry » Mon Jul 23, 2007 11:49 am

Nice notes as always, Bill. Any thoughts on the optimum drinking window for the Ch. Brown (I have only one bottle)?
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Re: WTN: A slew of wines, some with food

by Marc D » Mon Jul 23, 2007 11:57 am

Great notes, Bill.

The Richou Anjou sounds very interesting. Most of the 2005 Loire chenins I've tried are plenty rich, but maybe lack that crisp acidity that you describe. I will look out for this one. Did you note the abv?

For a few years I've read from some online comments that Chermette's best beaujolais was the Cuvee Traditionelle. Both you and Jim Cowan have posted very positive notes on the Fleurie. I really need to try it for myself and see.

Is the Brun rose sparkling? Do you like it more than the Renardat sparkling Bugey?
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Mark S

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Re: Torcolato

by Mark S » Mon Jul 23, 2007 11:58 am

Bill Buitenhuys wrote:1998 Maculan Torcolato (Breganze) I love this stuff. Wonderfully honeyed, floral nose, great balance, dessert level sweetness w/plenty of acid, and a satisfyingly long caramel, butterscotch finish. Fun as a dip for biscotti too.


You and me both...however, I was a little disappointed recently having the 2000 of this which seemed a little more advanced and losing some of its more flagrant qualities than a bottle I had a year or two earlier. The 2000 was probably from a riper year.

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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: Torcolato

by Bill Buitenhuys » Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:17 pm

Any thoughts on the optimum drinking window for the Ch. Brown (I have only one bottle)?
Clinton, I only had the lone bottle of this one as well. Not being a Bordeaux expert really, I'd guess that this wine has plenty of time left in it but for my tastes, it's in a nice place right now.
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Re: WTN: A slew of wines, some with food

by Bill Buitenhuys » Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:26 pm

I will look out for this one. Did you note the abv?
It's 13%abv, Marc. From what I've had from Richou (this, the '04 Rogiers, and '04 Cot. d l'Aubance) I've been really impressed. Particularly at this price point. (The Chauvigne is on the shelves at $16 retail)

I really need to try it for myself and see.
Yes! I love the traditionelle too.
Is the Brun rose sparkling? Do you like it more than the Renardat sparkling Bugey?
This is the dry rose'. I think the sparkler is called FRV100 and while good, I prefer the joyous fun of the Renardat Bugey.
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Re: Torcolato

by Bill Buitenhuys » Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:28 pm

I was a little disappointed recently having the 2000 of this which seemed a little more advanced and losing some of its more flagrant qualities than a bottle I had a year or two earlier.
Interesting indeed. I havent had '00 so thanks for the warning.

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