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WTN: 2004 Pessac, NV Brut

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Dale Williams

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WTN: 2004 Pessac, NV Brut

by Dale Williams » Sun Jul 22, 2007 10:52 am

Friday Betsy had me grill a porterhouse to put atop a salad of a parsley-watercress salad (with a horseradish-caper dressing). This recipe was originally offered as a pairing to Petite Sirah, but I was in the mood for Bordeaux. The 2004 Ch. Picque Caillou (Pessac-Leognan) was a nice classically styled Graves. Red plum and currant fruit, a bit of woodsmoke, some graphite and cedar. Not a huge wine, more a middleweight, but enough tannins to stand up to the rare meat (the salad was a bit much, I drank seltzer liberally). There's good acidity helping give it a fresh note, and good length for a wine that normally retails in the $20-25 range (I actually paid a whopping $8.75, kudos to Zachys for an excellent customer service attitude). Very happy to have this in the cellar, though I think it's probably not one to make old bones, I plan on enjoying over next 10 years. B+

Saturday was flat out gorgeous, we did a little hike at Teatown (complete with blue heron) and then had dinner on the patio watching the gold finches. The latest Saveur had a recipe for lobster/avocado salad, Betsy substituted Alaskan King Crab, at it was on sale for $6/lb. The problem winewise were:
a) the vinaigrette, of Champagne, champagne vinegar, Dijon mustard , oil, and shallots
b) beets aren't a problem but grapefruit is
c) the side of grilled baby artichokes.

Betsy said she'd just use white wine instead of Champagne, but I said let's open Champagne and use for dinner; bubbly will cope as well as anything. It actually did ok.

The Champagne was the NV Charles Ellner Brut Reserve. A lighter version of the '98 Prestige we had Wednesday. Bright apple fruit, the tiniest bit of sweetness peeking through, a hint of yeast. As we finished dinner and lingered outside, the yeast notes became more pronounced and biscuity as wine warmed. Very good NV Brut. B+/B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

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