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Jim Trezise Wine Press Saturday, July 14, 2007

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Ed Draves

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Jim Trezise Wine Press Saturday, July 14, 2007

by Ed Draves » Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:13 pm

Saturday, July 14, 2007



MONTY FUND, the special memorial fund created this year for education in grape growing, has received a $52,589.82 check from the New York Wine & Grape Foundation representing the net proceeds of the Viticulture 2007 conference in February. Created in memory of Monty Stamp of Lakewood Vineyards, the fund is administered by the New York State Wine Grape Growers, the grassroots organization he served for decades and which is largely responsible for the success of today’s New York grape and wine industry. They were the visionaries who really got the ball rolling, despite enormous odds and opposition from some quarters. The net proceeds from Viticulture 2000, the first conference, went into a computer training program for growers, and the Monty Fund will continue the tradition of education related to growing grapes. Planning has already begun for Viticulture 2010, which will again occur in Rochester in February of that year.

LONG ISLAND WINERIES continue to get lots of “ink” in various places, including a major article by Robert Parker associate David Schildknecht, and the Wine East magazine cover story on Wolffer Estate (last month on the cover of Vineyard & Winery Management magazine), including an interview of talented (and friendly) winemaker Roman Roth. David Schildknecht’s lengthy piece in vinvogage offers a superb primer on New York’s newest (34-year-old) wine region, tracing the history of abandoned potato fields now flourishing as premium vineyards, combined with a superb analysis of vineyard-specific grape growing characteristics in a region still discovering all that it can become in terms of world-class wines from many different grape varieties, both red and white. While Merlot first put Long Island on the vinous map and remains very popular, other red varieties like Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah(!) show promise if planted in the right locations and artfully treated in the cellar (Jamesport’s Cabernet Franc was judged Best Red Wine in our 2006 New York Wine & Food Classic, for example). Chardonnay is the most widely planted white wine variety, with a clear trend toward lighter, less oak-infected styles that match so well with the abundance of Long Island seafood, as do Sauvignon Blanc and other whites. Wine East’s Roman Roth interview, like that in V&WM, reflects why Wolffer Estate has become one of the region’s most respected producers.

781 ENTRIES is a new record for our New York Wine & Food Classic competition, to be held on August 7 & 8 at Copia—The American Center for Wine, Food & The Arts in Napa, CA. The Classic is considered “The Oscars” of the New York wine industry, with many New York wines that have already won Gold medals in international competitions now up against one another—it’s truly a tough competition. Fortunately, we have a great cast of 24 judges, including 2 from other countries, 10 from California, 6 from other states, and 6 from New York. Peter Marks, a Master of Wine and Copia’s Director of Wine, is our very generous and gracious host, as well as one of the judges. When we held the Classic at Copia in 2003, it generated a great buzz for New York wines on the “left coast”, along with the potential for sales (then essentially forbidden by antiquated laws). This year the sales can actually occur because direct shipment legislation was passed in 2005, thanks largely to Finger Lakes winery owners Pete Saltonstall and John Martini, along with Farm Bureau colleagues Julie Suarez and Joe Gergela, and Allison Lee (Patricia Lynch Associates). The food focus of this year’s Classic will be an “East Meets West” theme, using New York wines matched by Napa-origin foods, including lots of produce from Copia’s own biodynamic gardens. Jerry Pellegrino, a judge who is chef/owner of the fabulous, wine-themed “Corks” restaurant in Baltimore, will orchestrate the Welcome Dinner with volunteer judges as his sous chefs, and a great selection of Lodi wines. (We don’t use New York wines for that dinner because they may be in the competition starting the next day.) Chef Jeff Mosher of Julia’s Kitchen at Copia is preparing the grand finale Governor’s Cup Celebration Luncheon based around the top winning wines from last year’s Classic. All in all, a tasteful experience.

“PARTY TIME” is how some consumers see wine country visits, and our industry is taking proactive steps to correct that. Last weekend’s New York Times had a major article about groups in stretch limos touring Long Island wine country for all the wrong reasons; the piece even appeared in the International Herald Tribune in Paris. In many cases, the in-limo drinking starts in New York City, so by the time the revelers reach wine country a couple hours later, they’re already over the top and often exhibit inappropriate behavior of all kinds. Many Long Island wineries exclude limos and buses, and train their staffs well in how to handle difficult situations. The situation isn’t unique to Long Island: three Finger Lakes wine trails (Cayuga, Keuka and Seneca), with our full support, have launched a specific “Safe Groups Wine Tours ” initiative (http://www.GroupWineTours.com) in conjunction with some transportation companies to prevent such situations. Ironically, the limo problem is the opposite of what was to be a limo solution: Having tourists hire designated drivers rather than driving their own cars. Our organization has partnered with the New York State Police to create a clear, practical two-sided card reminding wine country visitors of the .08 BAC level for DUI and showing how small samples at several wineries can add up; the card is available in most winery tasting rooms. In early September, just before the fall tourist boom begins, we’ll sponsor TIPS (responsible server) training seminars free to wineries in each of New York’s major wine regions. While the vast majority of wine country visitors are exactly what we want—responsible, polite, and eager to learn about wine—the tiny minority can spoil things for everyone. We’re not going to let that happen.

CONGRATULATIONS to Charlene Ryder, Communications Specialist at National Grape Cooperative, for having Welch’s Co-op News earn the top award from the Cooperative Communicators Association. The newsletter is a great mix of financial information, product news, marketing programs, and people. Charlene has also been a key part of the Viticulture conferences (2000, 2003, 2007) in terms of planning and negotiations with hotels and convention centers. For more information: http://www.nationalgrape.com.

WINE PRESS most likely will not be published next weekend, as I’ll be judging at Dan Berger’s terrific Long Beach Grand Cru competition in California before heading to eastern Washington wine country for a Board meeting of the National Grape and Wine Initiative.



“Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used.”

Shakespeare




A Votre Santé To Your Health







Jim Trezise

JimTrezise@nywgf.org, email
http://www.newyorkwines.org/, web
http://www.healthyconcordgrapes.com/, web

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