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WTN: Two 2004 N. Rossignol Volnays

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Rahsaan

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WTN: Two 2004 N. Rossignol Volnays

by Rahsaan » Sat Jul 07, 2007 5:00 am

I heard that Nicolas Rossignol used to be a fairly "modern" producer but in recent vintages had been adopting more restraint and as such turned out some nice wines in 2004 that could potentially fit my palate. So that, along with the fairly reasonable price ($50), led me to purchase these wines for further inspection and consumption pleasure. Although, I don't think I'll be in a rush to return..

2004 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay Chevret
If this is restraint I'm afraid to taste what these wines were like during the modernist period, because this leans way too heavily on the oak for my tastes. It could also be a question of vintage/vineyard/phase, because the oak is not tremendously offensive, but nontheless the polished spicy oak flavors and texture do not have enough fruit to stand up to them and for several hours the wine drinks like a messy crunchy puddle. Eventually things start to integrate, the finesse emerges, and even a bit of mineral definition, so it has its merits. But it is still too marked by the sweet oak without enough other things going for it to really prompt a repurchase for me.

2004 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay Cailleret
Richer fuller and firmer than the Chevret which goes better with the spicy polished oak. This is undoubtedly an easier wine to like now, and has its merits, but doesn't show the same finesse as the Chevret (I've heard this producer's vines in Cailleret are young and not the best). And again, too marked by the sweet oak to prompt a repurchase for me.

I'd be curious to taste this guy's wines in a riper vintage (i.e. 05) but with all the other options out there it probably won't be my wallet springing for the first bottles.

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