WTN: 2006 Maryhill Columbia Valley Viognier

I saw the 2006 Maryhill Columbia Valley Viognier on sale for about $13 at our local supermarket this week. I recalled reading somewhere that it recently picked up a wine judging award. Turns out it was a Gold Medal at the June 2007 Seattle Wine Awards. Can't go wrong on this deal.

Well, think again. The wine has a lovely aroma, and delivers tastes of ripe peaches and apricots, but it ends with lots of residual sweetness. UGH!! My wife refused to drink it and made me open a bottle of Rulo Viognier instead.

I guess the Seattle Wine Awards don't mean a whole lot, if this is a Gold Medal winning wine.

-- Clark

My wife refused to drink it and made me open a bottle of Rulo Viognier instead.

Well at least your wife has good sense! I have been underwhelmed by Maryhill wines. Rulo is another story. Their Viognier is a dandy, as are most of their line of wines.

Rulo is another story. Their Viognier is a dandy, as are most of their line of wines.

You bet ... we are newcomers to the Rulo Fan Club, having only discovered them during our Walla Walla visit late last summer. With a friend tonight, we made short work of the remaining Rulo Viognier, so I opened a bottle of their Combine white blend (82% Sauvignon and 18% Viognier). We had that with a wonderful piece of grilled black cod that had been well marinated in EVOO, garlic, soy sauce and some leftover sake'.

-- Clark

[Jenise]

Clark, I didn't like last year's either, nor a very odd SB. Here's my note: 2004 Maryhill Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, Washington
I don't know what's going on at this winery. In the past I've had a delicious zinfandel from them that was a model of restraint from an often untetherable grape, but contrast that with a goopy, cheesy Viognier. Now, a hideously undermanaged sauvignon blanc. And we're not talking ripe-sweet, there was nothing at all overtly ripe about the wine. Rather there is some grassiness in the nose which suggests they were on the right track at some point, but in the mouth it's cotton candy. Simple, saturated and SWEET. If there were a White Grape Rescue Association, I'd report these guys.

Jenise,

I did a quick search in the WLDG database and found that passage prior to posting my note about the 2006 Viognier. It's all soundng rather consistent ... fat and sweet white wines.

That still leaves no explanation for the recent Gold Medal for this wine.

-- Clark

That still leaves no explanation for the recent Gold Medal for this wine.

Yes it does.

It just doesn't explain why you intepreted the Gold Medal as a positive signal.

That still leaves no explanation for the recent Gold Medal for this wine.

It depends on the competition, Clark. Some competitions require that judges pass a certification exam. One only allows winemakers/principals. Others only require that you know Bubba down at the 7-11.

You also need to look for balanced panels. Does the panel have a press person, merchant, winemaker and restaurateur? They all look at wine with different expectations.

I hate to get on a panel with two winemakers -- they dissect the wine to death. If there is a flaw, say Brett, they won't give it a medal. I counter them with, "But it tastes good." Doesn't matter -- it's a flaw. You can out vote one recalcitrant panel member, but not two.

I don't know any of the panel members at the Seattle Wine Awards, but I can tell you the panels were not balanced. Six of the ten judges were from restaurants and three were merchants. There were no press or winemakers on the panels. My impression of the competition goes down when I see this.

You bet ... we are newcomers to the Rulo Fan Club, having only discovered them during our Walla Walla visit late last summer. With a friend tonight, we made short work of the remaining Rulo Viognier, so I opened a bottle of their Combine white blend (82% Sauvignon and 18% Viognier).

-- Clark

Clark or Bucko,

Was the Rulo Combine always SB and Viognier? I tried it one year, forget which vintage right now, but thought it was a Chardonnay and Viognier blend. I thougt it was a very enjoyable wine and the Viognier added a lot of interesting aromas.

Thanks,
Marc

Was the Rulo Combine always SB and Viognier? I tried it one year, forget which vintage right now, but thought it was a Chardonnay and Viognier blend. I thougt it was a very enjoyable wine and the Viognier added a lot of interesting aromas.

Last year was my first experience with this wine, so I only have a single data point.

While in Walla Walla last summer, I tasted the 2005 Helix Aspersa (Reininger second label, $18 ), a blend of Viognier (60%) and Chardonnay (40%). I could not handle the Chardonnay component of that wine, and came away wondering why they ruined a perfectly good Viognier. Of course, with that Chardonnay in there, I honestly could not tell how good the Viognier really was.

-- Clark

but thought it was a Chardonnay and Viognier blend.

It was. I don't know when they changed to SB for sure, but I think it was the 2004 vintage.

Clark, I didn't like last year's either, nor a very odd SB. Here's my note: 2004 Maryhill Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, Washington
I don't know what's going on at this winery. In the past I've had a delicious zinfandel from them that was a model of restraint from an often untetherable grape, but contrast that with a goopy, cheesy Viognier. Now, a hideously undermanaged sauvignon blanc. And we're not talking ripe-sweet, there was nothing at all overtly ripe about the wine. Rather there is some grassiness in the nose which suggests they were on the right track at some point, but in the mouth it's cotton candy. Simple, saturated and SWEET. If there were a White Grape Rescue Association, I'd report these guys.

Jenise, this quote from Maryhill's website about their current release SB (the 2005) suggests they agree with your assessment (and are proud of it): "This unique wine emits a grassy and herbaceous nose that will leave you dreaming of springtime wildflowers. Ripe fruit gives this Bordeaux classic a refreshing, rainwater clean mouth feel complimented by a hint of green apple sweetness. If you prefer something in between sweet and dry, this could be your new favorite wine."

[Jenise]

Mark, that's quite funny! And, at least their marketing people seem to know what they're doing, if almost too well.