2005 Picq Chablis Vieilles Vignes Burgundy France. 12.5% alcohol; 100% Chardonnay. Chambers Street; $19.99. Imported by Dogls Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, NY.
Pale yellow color, clear hue, lovely fruit and mineral aromas, delicious fruit taste with a complex mineral base that persisted into the finish, firm acidity, lovely smooth mouth feel. Great combination with Swedish crackers and delicious Ikura from wild Alaskan chum salmon (Oncorhynchus Keta). 4*+.
Notes:
Distributor: From three plots of vines that are all over 50 years old. Quite a full nose, richer than the basic Chablis, with more concentration and weight, but a similarity of style. Since 1976, father and sons have been running this small domaine where all the vines are situated in the commune of Chichée about 3 km south of Chablis on the left bank of the Serein. The terroir of Chichée does not yield high alcohol wines and Didier Picq has been keen to keep the need to chaptalize to a minimum by moderating his yields. (The Vielles Vignes, almost always above 12 degrees alcohol is usually not chaptalized at all.) http://polanerselections.com/
Joel Mitchel, Beekmans in Glen Rock [on the basic Chablis]: "At a time when many Chablis producers are pushing the boundaries of Chablis geographically and stylistically, it is a delight to find a traditional producer whose age-worthy wines are pure and true. The tell-tale minerality of fine Chablis is evident in this light-to-medium-bodied wine, and the finish is exceptional for a village wine. Picq Chablis is a fine introduction to the vintage, which was one of Burgundy’s best in recent memory. For a real education, put a few bottles away for 5 years or more. As good as these wines are when young, they develop nuances and complexity with age."
Tanzer: 'Green-tinged straw-yellow. Captivating, complex nose offers citrus peel, menthol, spices, petrol and a candied note. Superripe and very rich, with the ripe acidity to give shape to its fat flavors and considerable volume. Pineapple and dusty stone really coat the palate on the broad, long aftertaste. This was also made entirely in stainless steel cuve The wine is just under 13% alcohol, but one of its components came in at close to 14%, noted Picq.'
Lyle Fass: "Picq is one of my favorite Chablis producers. The wines are not long agers but show a wonderful purity of fruit, a creamy texture and all the mineral seashell complexity you could hope for. Fat texture, intense mid-palate minerality, adequate acidity (this is '05) and a long finish."