2004 Dom. André et Mireille Tissot, Arbois (Chardonnay):
No wood in evidence anywhere, this is viscous, potent chardonnay that tastes very similar to good Chablis but has some extra stone and resin elements; good depth with integration and bright acidity all leading to a balanced, complete finish. I suspect a little cellar time will help development. 13% alcohol, imported by Potomac Selections and about $24; more than worth it.
2003 Jacques Puffeney, Arbois (Pinot Noir):
Chalky tannins, very concentrated dark fruit, solid structure, good length and pretty tight; no evident wood or over-ripeness but this is more in the “pinot that wanted to be syrah” style and has virtually no sense of place at the moment. All the building blocks are there for aging and development over time but I haven’t enough experience with either this producer or this terroir to make that call with confidence. With grilled chicken and radicchio-potato salad it came together nicely and the tannins melted away. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $32; I might buy it again at that price but there are some pretty nice 2005 Côte Chalonnaise pinots in the market for less these days.
2005 Dom. du Vissoux, Beaujolais VV Cuvée Traditionnelle:
The striking thing about this wine is how pure it is; lovely red fruit scents and flavors, some spice, integrated structure and perfect balance all with such an achingly beautiful purity. Not the density or complexity of the cru wines from this house in 2005 but, at present, the more complete wine. 12% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $14; ridiculously under priced.
2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vineyard:
From San Luis Obispo County, this is barely an infant; purple in color and smells like purple wine also – nice complexity but so young as to give the impression of fresh grape juice; fleshy in the mouth with layers of sweet fruit, hidden structure and outstanding length. I’m about 20 years too early here; if you make the same mistake, decant a long time. 14.2% alcohol and about $45; I bought plenty.
Best, Jim