- 1954 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Piemonte Nebbiolo Spanna Campi Raudii - Italy, Piedmont, Piemonte DOC (6/30/2007)
Having experienced this wine before, expectations weren't too high and as I was opening it said "It will definitely be fading".
Fading perhaps, but stonking with it!
Cork was pretty soft & soaked and came out in two pieces. The level was a concerning, (albeit unsurprising with it's age) upper shoulder
The colour is edging from claret to mahogany with the red tones hanging in there - just. The browning at the rim has a touch of amber, but not as much as I've noticed in other older nebbiolos. This one definitely darker and heading towards brown.
The nose is certainly very mature, with a fair degree of sweet decaying fruit giving it an overall caramelly nose (in a good way, this descriptor cuts both ways for me). There's some earthy mushroom in there and a nice fresh lift (VA?) that fits well, perhaps a touch of sweet spice as well?
On the palate there's a degree of sweetness and balancing refreshing acidity that matches really well. Relatively light in body, with a finish that isn't powerful, but long and complex (it almost fades away, yet seems to come back again, and again). Works very well with food (in this case roast chicken with a porcini and Morel gravy). On it's own, perhaps the acidity dominates the finish and makes it a little drying. There's also a straw/almond-like flavour at the tail-end of the finish. Still minor quibbles.
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For comparison, another note from earlier in the year at a (mostly) aged nebbiolo tasting. Similarities show my narrow wine vocabulary I'm sure
. Interesting as to why tonight's wine was enjoyed more - perhaps a better bottle, palate variation, or maybe it just looked better on it's own than in a larger line-up. - 1954 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Piemonte Nebbiolo Spanna Campi Raudii - Italy, Piedmont, Piemonte DOC (1/28/2007)
Colour-wise, this was really showing it's age, with a mahogany colour and little hint of red left. However the colour was quite deep. Fill level was upper shoulder IIRC. The nose had a strong tertiary mushroom nose, with shades of licorice and medicinal sweetness. Certainly impressive and complex. On the palate the dominant mushroom aromas were replicated, together with the licorice. Initially it fell away quite quickly on the finish, though with a little air, it held up slightly better and some caramel notes appeared. Overall highly enjoyable, but definitely on the slide and you have to appreciate aged characters to get the same enjoyment I did.