Last night I was invited to dinner to try some Loire wines. As an added bonus we got to try some of the newly arrived 2005's from Domaine Belliviere, which were very impressive.
We tasted through almost all the wines first, then ate some braised duck hindquarters that Erin brined first. The duck was served with slow cooked cabbage, a salad and Miche bread. The rich whites like the Cotat and L'Efraie went very well with the duck, as did the juicy Nuits d'Ivresse.
We finished up with some cheeses washed down with a mystery white and the Cazin Cour Cheverny.
Whites
1981 Nicolas Muscadet - golden color, interesting nose with chocolate mint and straw, but sour and over the hill.
1989 Luneau Papin L d'Or - a crystalline beauty, clean, pure, and briny. It took a bit to get going, but has everything I want from a Muscadet and a bit more.
1985 Ladoucette Pouilly Fume Baron de L - still very much alive, elegant and slim, lime skin citrus and grassy, a winner
2001 Francois Cotat Sancerre Les Mont Damnes - a bit funky not completely clean nose, some comments included "sandalwood aftershave" and "cheese rind". Rich and concentrated, ripe fruit, some grass and herbs, chalk, a little residual sugar, very long finish. Maybe a little atypical for Sancerre, but a very good, maybe great wine. A glass later with the braised duck was a great match. The wine needs a carefully thought out food match to shine.
1995 Closel Savennieres La Jalousie - oxidized, nutty, sharp, eh not so good. We talked about if this was the oxidation phase these wines go through during their closed phase, but this particular bottle seemed kaput.
1997 Chateau du Varennes Savennieres - a little bottle stink, petrol nose, dry, honeyed entrance, finishes with some bitterness, someone said "textbook Savennieres". I thought it was good, enjoyable, but not great.
2005 Belliviere L'Effraie - gorgeous and pure aromas of acacia flower, pear, and quince paste, I couldn't take my nose out of the glass. Demisec+ level of sweetness without being flabby, outstanding and should age well.
Reds
1998 Joguet Chinon Clos du Chene Vert - dull dark ruby color without bricking, dusty black raspberry, lean, slightly astringent finish. I liked this, someone else mentioned a Playdough smell that was off-putting.
2000 Breton Nuits d'Ivresse - shiny dark garnet color, interesting nose with lots of black pepper and some Jalapeño, a touch of high toned fruit. In the mouth it was juicy and very smooth, with some briny minerals, almost no tannin left. Very easy to drink and great with food. Drink up if you have any of these around.
1989 Breton Bourgueil Cuvee Peirieres - Someone mentioned this was from Galichet fruit. Dark garnet without bricking. Hints of old leather and a core of dark concentrated fruit, even strawberry marmalade. Jeff thought the fruit was too concentrated. Some wet cement minerals. Seems about fully mature. I liked this one a lot.
More from Belliviere
2005 Rouge Gorge - A red wine from Pineau d' Aunis. Big, dense, peppery strawberry fruit, good concentration and length. Lovely wine and unique.
2005 Hommage a Louis Derre - Also from Pineau d' Aunis, but very old vines. This was open for 36 hours, but takes the previous wine to another level. Incredible port like concentration from the 80 to 100 year old vines. Jeff said this smells like a bloody rare pepper steak, also he thought that when this was first opened it was almost painfully intense. 15.5 % abv. I didn't notice too much heat from the alcohol, but the wine has a lot of body. A Vin de Garde from Pineau d Aunis, crazy stuff.
2004 Les Giroflees - A rose from Pineau d Aunis that smells just like the Rouge Gorge, with wild mountain strawberries and black pepper. Demisec sweet, but excellent balancing acids, and a little dissolved CO2. A great, refreshing rose if you don't mind the RS. No sign of age from this 2004 rose either.
2 Whites with Cheeses
2004 Puzelat Touraine Le Buisson Pouilleux - This was served blind. Cloudy pale yellow, flowery, grapefruit tequila cocktail nose, bone dry. Very good with most of the cheeses. I was told this was Sauvignon Blanc. The wine seemed almost alive, maybe still working?
1996 Cazin Cour Cheverny Cuvee Renaissance - A demisec wine that is made from very ripe Romorantin grapes when the vintage allows. The high acidity of Romorantin coupled with the residual sugar from the ripe grapes makes a wine that has a lot of interest and requires some age to for everything to come together. Last night this seemed to be in a great drinking place, with the balance and structure to age longer.
Earthy, whiff of petrol nose, with grapefruit. Intense lemon head candy acidity balances the 25+ grams residual sugar. Rich and complex with wonderful tension between the sweet and sour, delicious, a long persistent finish. Just a beautiful wine.
Best,
Marc
